Pre-emergent versus post-emergent weed control

Published by Mr. Grass on May 17th, 2012 - in Landscaping, Turf

We have lots of folks asking about the difference between treatments that claim control over annual broadleaf weeds like spurge versus post emergent weeds like dandelions.  This is often a very confusing distinction which only requires a brief explanation to clear things up and understand the differences between the two.

Annual broadleaf weeds germinate beginning in late April and continue throughout the summer.  The crabgrass suppression treatment often used to begin the season will inhibit crabgrass and these annual broadleaf weeds as well.  Therefore, these weeds have not and don’t even germinate because of this first treatment in many lawn programs.  This type of treatment will not control existing weeds like dandelions or clover.  A subsequent treatment which targets perennial or biennial broadleaf weeds works completely different by attacking the plants you see in your lawn right now.  This is done by contact with the leaf surface and by absorption into the root system.

Although there are some annual broadleaf weeds which will germinate later and not be controlled by the first treatment in April or May, subsequent broadleaf weed treatments in a post-emergent setting will address those villains.  Another option to naturally reduce broadleaf weeds involves turf building by adding compost tea, kelp, annual aeration/overseeding, lime, as well as natural or organic fertilizer.  A healthy lawn that is thick and growing will naturally crowd out a huge amount of weeds over time without the need for broadleaf weed control treatments.  However, many folks like to speed the process up by having a few select weed reduction treatments followed up by a conversion to natural treatments afterward.

So, if you are confused about pre-emergent weed control versus post-emergent weed control, I hope you feel a little better after reading this short blog post!  Have a great spring and don’t fear, “Mrgrass” is always near!

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Hepatica acutiloba

Published by Mrs. Flower on May 4th, 2012 - in Garden, Landscaping

(Hepatica nobilis var. acuta) now reclassified as Anemone acutiloba, but it will always be Hepatica to me…

Liverleaf, Sharp-lobed hepatica

In April, on a gentle slope, out of the leaf litter along the road where I often walk, comes the annual carpet display of the flowers of Hepatica.  When I see them I know that finally winter is over, done, finito.  Most often the 6 -10 petal bloom is white with a tinge of mauve, purple, blue, or pink. I look for blues, which can be deep shaded, and most lovely in my opinion.

At first glance, it seems the diminutive plants are nothing but hairy stemmed flowers popping up out of old forest litter. But upon close inspection you will find the old leaves of the plant from the previous year that persisted through the winter. Then, along comes the fresh leathery, dark green, mottled, three-lobed leaves of the current year. They look like the human liver (hepar in ancient Greek), hence the common name ‘liverleaf’. Butterflies, moths, bees, flies and beetles are known pollinators and the early blooms of the hepatica are well appreciated by all.

Usually the flowers last about a month to six weeks and then the plants become rather anonymous, blending in with the leaf litter once more. Hardy to zone 4, this garden treasure is native to eastern America and thrives in the dappled light in deciduous woods. My stand of hepatica rarely reaches 7” in height, but I have heard of foot tall plants. Squirrels and chipmunks are greedy for the seeds of these plants. I have suffered skirmishes against their ravaging hoards and have lost to them. Never underestimate a rodent with time on their paws. In response to my inability to find ripe seeds I easily give up. That time of the year is very busy and I usually forget about them.

As I write this I recoil to think that this most important herald of spring for me is so easily forgotten so very quickly forgotten. Is my heart so shallow? This year I will be vigilant about seed collecting! Seeds can be planted fresh in late May. Shallow planted, they should sprout quickly and be transplanted to a woodland area with little competition from larger plants. If there is a good blue, I mark it with a stick so I know where it is. Lift in the fall and gently tease apart leaving at least 3 buds per division. Plant the divisions in high organic matter soil. It is best to plant on a slope as Hepatica is intolerant of water collecting at the base.

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Gillenia trifoliata

Published by Mrs. Flower on April 24th, 2012 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives

Fawn’s Breath, Bowman’s Root, Porteranthus.

I’m not going to beat around the bush and just say: “This is a great plant!” Even though I am rumored to say that most any plant I talk about is ‘my favorite,’ this one does have a special place in my heart. Who wouldn’t adore a plant with the common name “fawn’s breath”- oh my gosh – how divine!  Gillenia is one of those understated, refined, easy-to-grow-anywhere kind of plants. It is astonishing to me that it is not found easily in commercial trade. This plant is native to the Northeast and is hardy in zones 4-8. It is amazingly versatile and can be grown in sun or shade, in dry or moist conditions. Being deer resistant does add to its charms, but more important, I have yet to see any kind of pest or disease ever disfigure this perennial.

Gillenia is a compact rotund plant that is 2-3’ tall, with equal spread. It is fine textured and has a medium growth rate. The general nature of the plant lends an enchanting vision of airy lightness. It is covered in late spring with delicate star-like white flowers. Inflorescences dangle off of little red petioles, which in turn come off of bright mahogany stems. This makes for pretty, great looking cut flowers.  The flowers can repeat in late summer with care to the needs of water and food.

The foliage turns deep brilliant bronzy red in the fall. Unbelievable color!! There is nothing quite like it in the garden. I prefer to see this plant in masses as this is an amazing show in all seasons of interest. Gillenia has interesting seed heads that persist into winter. The seeds can be collected and sprouted fresh (usually they sprout in only 3 weeks) in the fall and transplanted right away into flats which are nestled into cold frames for the winter. The roots develop well over the winter and plantlets can then be transplanted into moderately acidic ground the following spring. Divisions of the plant can be done in early spring and in the fall.

If you have further questions about this or other garden plants please contact gardens@chippersinc.com.

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Spring time means outdoor fun with your lawn!

Published by Mr. Grass on March 28th, 2012 - in Landscaping, Turf

Maybe this is the year you have decided to take action and are simply not willing to accept the same old lawn you had in 2011.  If this is the year you have decided to act, then I have good news!  Your turf can look better and with the right game plan will provide enjoyment throughout the summer with visible monthly progress.  After all, why suffer through another spring when this type of property improvement is generally fairly easy with predicable results?  The key to success is to just say yes, seek out professional help and get a game plan.  Once spring arrives, everyone gets busy and before long it’s July 4th or later!  Don’t let this spring slip away when so much good can be done to enhance your own lawn and property.

Spring is perhaps the most important time of the year to get your lawn on the road to improvement.  One big reason is looking into the future; do you want to enjoy the benefits sooner or later?  Later would be beginning in the fall while sooner would be spring.  A damaged or thin lawn may require aggressive steps to help reclaim lost grass such as seeding, aerating, overseeding, or even crabgrass suppression to help get the ball rolling.  Waiting until fall gives away the advantage to the enemy like crabgrass, annual weeds, or even insects like grubs.  An idle lawn will remain just that, the same as the year before without corrective measures.  Spring provides ideal grass growing weather due to moderate temperatures and ample moisture.  Cool season grasses flourish in spring time weather like an athlete training for a race.  Not only must your lawn do well, it must do great in order to compete for light, water, space, and air in your home or commercial lawn.  This is competition pure and simple.

Just doing something will not do the trick.  Too much of a good thing can be as bad as or worse than doing nothing at all.  The key is applying the right ingredients at the right time.  Picture in your mind making yeast bread with 5 times as much yeast as the recipe calls for, disaster!  Imagine this same concept when caring for a home lawn.  Some will put down ½ the required amount while others will easily double or triple the amount required.  Regardless of any burning or striping, the end results will be the same- poor!  Take the guess work out of the equation and consider a professional to care for your property this season and spend that free time doing something fun instead!  This is the year to take action and not only make your landscape look good but feel good inside yourself.

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Adiantum pedatum

Published by Mrs. Flower on March 21st, 2012 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives

 

Northern maidenhair, Maidenhair Fern, Five Fingered Fern

Near my home is a large hillside that is festooned with Maidenhair fern. It is the understory to mixed hardwood trees. I pass by it every day and I always turn my eyes to the lush shroud of ethereal green fernery and imagine wondrous things are happening under that verdant cloak.

In my world, this particular fern has no equal. It posses delicate fronds, that are roughly 20” tall, atop dark, shiny stems. In early spring, wine red fiddleheads appear. I get excited when I see the fronds arise in clusters from the creeping rootstock. The feather-like fronds open horizontally in a nearly perfect circle, not unlike a dinner plate. No other native fern posses this unique fan-like pinnate pattern.

The roots are black and wiry and colonize in rich, moist, acidic, well-drained soils. Perennial in nature, they prefer cool forests or semi-shaded areas and especially enjoy northern exposures. Rocky seeps and springs are of particular interest to this fern. Rain seems to bounce right off of them; they stand quite well in driving rain. This is a good quality in the forest, and in the garden, and in nearly every station of life – as one must stand tall and firm in the deluge that comes. Toads and frogs and all sorts of little creatures thrive in the undercover of these ferns, promising bounteous expeditions into the wild.

Hardy in zones 4-8, this American native plant is a good bet for the home shade garden. It has low drought tolerance. Copious amounts of added humus will hold water in the soil. It is not hard to make more plants by rhizome division in early spring, or in late fall from spores. It is best to divide the roots during fiddlehead stage. If this opportunity is missed, I recommend waiting until the spores mature in late summer and fall. Growing from spores is fun, easy and will yield an ungodly amount of progeny; resulting in making one feel like the scientific propagator supreme. Tap spores onto sterile potting mix, then mist and keep covered with a clear plastic lid. Here is a great use for all of those little plastic berry boxes! Keep them over the winter in a cool place away from direct light. Keep them moist but not soggy. Transplant in the garden on 1’ centers in the early spring where they are to grow.

 

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Tapping landscape maples for sap….

Published by Mr. Tree on March 14th, 2012 - in Arborist, Landscaping, Trees

One of my favorite hobbies was when I kept honey bees. As much as I like honey, I always wished my bees produced maple syrup! I love maple syrup. As an arborist, I really appreciate a sustainable sugaring operation, including those that sugar their maple trees as a hobby. Proper tapping of healthy Sugar maples is sustainable, and new, progressive methods of tapping increase production while reducing injury to the tree. 

Unfortunately, in the urban (or urbanized) landscape, mature trees struggle, especially Sugar maples. Competition with the turf, soil compaction, extreme variations in soil temperature and moisture are rarely found in the forest, and these stress factors create very challenging situations for the trees and those caring for them. Much of what arborists do is to create a micro-environment for urbanized trees that mimics what happens in the forest.

Should one tap their backyard Sugar maples? Maybe and maybe not!  Is the tree healthy? Does the tree show signs of decay in the main stem (common in urban trees)? Has the soil around the tree been compacted or the roots cut by construction? Every hole drilled into the trunk of the tree is an injury that the tree needs to overcome. What is an insignificant injury to the cambial zone of a healthy tree may be the tipping point in a struggling tree. This is why most towns and campuses won’t allow tapping of their maple trees.

I’ll help make the decision easy. If the Sugar maple tree near your house or within the maintained landscape is superfluous, tap it. If you would really miss the aesthetic contributions of that tree – don’t tap it. Best, tap the trees on the back 40.

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Just in time for ‘Spring Ahead’….

Published by Mrs. Chippers on March 11th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Land Enhancement, Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Trees, Turf

Our Spring 2012 GreenWords newsletter is now in your snail mail if you are an existing client, and posted at our website: http://www.chippersinc.com/green-words-newsletter.

It’s filled with lots of good ideas for the upcoming green season!

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Plan for the approaching ash borer…

Published by Mr. Tree on February 29th, 2012 - in Arborist, Green Care Industry Issues, Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Trees

Unfortunately, another exotic and destructive insect threatens our native trees. More specifically, the emerald ash borer (EAB) threatens our native ash species along with the frequently planted green ash. History suggests that this pest may threaten for years, never actually making it here, such as the hemlock wooly adelgid. However, the rate at which this insect has been moving and the destruction left in its path, I’m getting prepared!

 

This insect has destroyed thousands of ash trees in the midwest, and is currently moving across New York state. If it continues the march east at the current rate of speed, I expect its arrival within the next several years. What are we to do?

 

For those of you with ash trees, you will need to make some decisions. Simply being aware of the potential is a good start. Some folks are preemptive about their ash trees and are having them removed. This is prudent for trees that are already in a state of poor health or condition, and may have been on the radar for removal someday. Perhaps a garden is planned and extra sunlight is desired.

 

For those of you with ash trees that contribute significantly to the landscape and the value of your property, a treatment program may be a viable option to prevent the effects of the emerald ash borer. Two systemic insecticide products are approved for EAB and do not require whole tree spraying. My hope is that after the EAB population peaks in our area, the protected ash may one day be able to survive again untreated.

This is a good site for additional EAB identification resources:

http://www.emeraldashborer.info/identifyeab.cfm

For more information contact Cal Felicetti, ASCA Member Consulting Arborist: askthearborist@chippersinc.com.

 

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Eastern Leatherwood – Dirca palustris

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 27th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Trees

This is the third segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Here is a darling understory shrub with a height of 3 – 6’ and equal width. When I first noticed this plant in the dappled light of my woodland, I was love struck. This is a native plant that is found in the eastern half of North America. The multi branched broad shrub is covered with light green 3” oval shaped leaves. This is a very well behaved shrub. In the shade the plant seems to be reaching for the sun and is thinner than the specimens located in full sun, which tend to be full rounded shrubs. I like to hike along the southeast base of Mt. Hoar on the edge of Lake Willoughby, Vermont, the understory is dense with Leatherwood. I am amazed at the width of the leaves, which seem much larger than the standard.

You cannot go wrong with a plant that is good in both sun and shade. It does enjoy moist soil, hence the species “palustris” which means “of the swamps”.  The texture is of medium quality and it is slow growing. This makes a fine plant for the landscape, although it is very difficult to find in cultivation. This makes me covetous. Fall brings forth a fine clear yellow in the leaf, with best color in partial shade conditions.

Leatherwood has no enemies to speak of.  Even deer won’t browse it (it is thought to possibly have diuretic qualities). Studies recently done show that extracts from the seeds contain linoleic and oleic acid which have insecticidal qualities for specific insects.

The bark has a leathery feel. It is not easy to snap off a branch. This quality made it useful for Native Americans to make baskets, bowstrings and fish lines. In very early spring, the shrub bursts forth with lovely perfect 4” butter yellow flowers. Each flower produces one seed. The large green seeds form and drop quickly, literally within a week all seeds will drop from the plant. The seeds need to be collected and sown fresh in late spring for sprouting the following spring. Layering works as a method, but proves difficult as one would have to work in the woodland laboratory where anything can happen. Propagation from cuttings is very difficult, which of course baits me – making it a must try!

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American Hornbeam – Carpinus caroliniana

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 7th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the second segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Who wouldn’t like a tree with the moniker “muscle wood”? Also commonly called “blue beech” or “ironwood”, the American Hornbeam is a medium-sized native hardwood tree that, on average, reaches 20 to 30 feet in height and width. Ironwood has a range from Nova Scotia through most of the eastern seaboard of the US, to include the topmost section of Florida, and westward to roughly the middle of the central time zone. It is hardy in zones 3 – 9.

The young bark is smooth and the subtly twisted trunk looks rather sinewy. As it ages the bark becomes fissured and fluted. The form can range from a multistemmed shrub to a single stemmed tree. The growth rate is slow – about a foot per year. Enjoying moisture places it along brooks predominately in the wild. This is a tree for the understory! It is tolerant of deep shade, but also will perform in full sun with a good deep acid soil and promise of adequate fertilizer and moisture. It is also a fine tree for naturalizing.

The leaves resemble that of beech. It is a simple leaf 3 – 4” long with sharp teeth. Fall color is exceptional, displaying red, maroon, orange and gold. The tree exhibits both male and female flowers that are lovely in display, and the resulting fruits are numerous nutlets prized by birds.

Carpinius caroliniana is one of my most favorite trees, even though I know I tend to say this many times about many trees. But, this understory specimen amid taller limbed up trees is a true delight in the fall that will yield wildlife activity further along in the season. I have seen an absolutely sublime alley made of American Hornbeam – the medium texture was kind on the eye and the fall display was robust.

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