Archive for the ‘Landscaping’ Category
Sing (and Dance!) Out the Old & Ring in the New!
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Eastern Redbud – Cercis canadensis
This is the first segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series……
What better time than now, during the first days of winter, to be thinking about the early flowering trees of spring? Eastern redbud is perhaps my favorite blooming tree. It is certainly one of the finest native flowering trees. What I like about this tree is not only that it is one of the earliest blooming, but in the way that the profuse pinkish purple blooms seem to explode right out of the pores of the bark! There are white blooming varieties as well.
Upon inspection of the bark, on the branches and trunk, it is smooth with tiny bumps. Then quickly the knurls fatten and unfurl into a multi-stemmed bunch of 4-8 tiny flowers covering a leafless tree. Completely gorgeous. It flowers on old wood. The flowers are bisexual and the tree is self-pollinating.
The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects. The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects. Hence it becomes a busy little community of life. The seeds look like pea pods and this is because the genus comes from the legume family – Fabaceae. They form over the course of the summer and are attractive to seed eating birds – Cardinals being my favorites. The seed can be germinated after scarification with sulfuric acid for about a half hour and then given 6 – 8 weeks of cold treatment. The seed does have an internal dormancy, but most will germinate with proper care.
As if the 2-3 week flowering period is not enough, the young leaves appear as small cranberry colored hearts that grow to a large 4” blue green cordate leaf. The leaves turn an exceptional golden yellow in the fall. This little tree can be used in a garden setting and it is possible to utilize it as a shrub with selective pruning. The redbud is not especially vulnerable to pests and diseases. This is a versatile genus that is easy to grow and take care of.
The cercis is a medium textured, short-lived deciduous tree found throughout the eastern United States. It is tolerant of most soil types, except refuses to be happy in constantly wet soils. It has a deep taproot and is aggressive in establishment in full sun to part shade. The average height is 15-20′ and the spread is 18-25′. It has a lovely horizontal branching, rotund form. The growth rate is medium, which makes it perfect for the garden, as it will not quickly take over. Most rapid growth occurs in youth, in the first 5–6 years, when it can grow 6–10’, then growth is slow. The Eastern Redbud is a native tree that is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Be careful not to acquire a tree that has come from seed stock grown in the south as, most likely, it will not be hardy to far north conditions.
I have a variety called ‘Forest Pansy’ in my garden that is hardy to zone 5. While I am in zone 4, I have enjoyed this little tree for five years.I always lose the branches every winter and I cut them back, fearing that this might be the end, but the tree keeps flushing forth with BIG dark purple hearts which turn various shades of apricot in the fall.
Visitors always ask what it is. It has never, and may never bloom because I have to keep pruning the winter kill – but I love this tree so much. Even if it does expire, I will surely replace it with another.
I am dying to try a new cultivar ‘Rising Sun’ which has golden tangerine heart -shaped foliage summer through fall; new leaves are bright rosy apricot. It grows to a height of 12’, which would be perfect as a garden framework maker. It is hardy to zone 5, but I do enjoy pushing my limits!
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Ice Melt: You Really Do Get What You Pay For….
Rock salt is the cheapest and most basic of ice melting materials but it has many drawbacks for the price. Everyone knows the damage rock salt does to turf, tree & shrubs, concrete, brick, patios, steel and so many more materials. Rock salt is the cheapest ice melt but generally functions in the upper teens to lower 20’s F. Rock salt will do plenty of damage to concrete, patios, grass, trees, and shrubs when exposed to the briny solution as it soaks into the soil. Once spring arrives the moist, salty soil actually creates a drought condition around root systems resulting from the use of rock salt. Although rock salt is a cheap ice melting product, the replacement damage of beloved tree and shrubs far outweigh its regular use. Surprisingly enough, many folks still buy rock salt by the ton due to its “perceived” value as it relates to the price per bag. For a few dollars more, many other ice melting products are available with much less impact to the environment and landscaping materials such as brick, slate, and concrete.
Calcium chloride is a serious ice melting product that works at extreme low temperatures (-25 f), only found in New England on rare occasions. Unfortunately, calcium chloride is a very harsh chemical that requires the use of protective equipment such as gloves to protect against burning exposed skin. Calcium chloride is also very expensive, which brings into question why it would be used over other available products. Storage is important because unless the bags are sealed and kept dry, calcium chloride “melts” into itself by absorbing moisture in the air- thereby coming unusable. Calcium chloride will corrode steel so makes it a poor choice for use on concrete sidewalks. Most calcium chloride pellets are round and therefore roll on inclines unlike crystalline ice melters. While other ice melts can provide physical traction after use, the round pellets of calcium chloride cannot provide any such benefit. Calcium chloride is labeled on the bag as a severe irritant to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.
There are many environmentally friendly ice melting materials on the market. Unfortunately, because ice melts are not regulated by the Federal government, an associated MSDS sheet can be most vague without exhaustive research. After much research ourselves, we have decided to offer Natural Ice Melt as an alternative to the aforementioned products. Performance must be balanced with cost and benefits depending upon the planned use such as on a driveway, near a valuable landscape or around pets. So the next time you are staring at a pallet of ice melt at the Home Depot, maybe you will think twice before reaching for the lowest price bag because… are you really saving any money? If you have more questions about ice melt, please contact turf@chippersinc.com.
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The Deep Sleep is Looming
The processes of plant dormancy begin with triggers that indicate the growing season is nearing end and that winter is approaching. Obvious signs would be the shortening of daylight hours, reduced water, reduced food resources and cooler temperatures. Plants are capable of being fooled out of the process of senescence. Many gardeners have seen perennials, shrubs and trees suddenly show what appears to be spring growth. This often happens if plants that are supposed to be getting ready for dormancy are given fertilizer late in the season, or if there is unusual extended warmth and rain. This is why it is best not to fertilize late in the season, or during autumn planting and transplanting.
It is possible to make a plant that is seasonal stay awake for up to two seasons. Using a Japanese maple as an example; one could bring it indoors and keep it “awake” for a two-season period. But most likely, soon enough, it will die because this type of extreme treatment will exhaust the plants’ stores. This is why it is not a great idea to try to grow anything other than tropical as houseplants.
When the season end “triggers” mount up, signaling end game, processes like pulling the last remaining nutrients from the leaves and transporting them down into crowns and or, roots for winter storage are happening. Plant cells start to reduce the amount of water contained within the cell walls. This small amount of remaining liquid is sugar-laden and acts as a sort of plant antifreeze. This sugary liquid will not expand with freezing temps and explode the plant cells, which causes cell death.
Some plants actually have a capability of having a dormancy set point. These plants require a specific number of hours of dormancy before they awaken for the season. This works well for those times when spring comes suddenly and for a short spell. Gardeners worry when they see spring growth way before the last frosts have finished, and this seems to be happening more these days. But have faith that plants do know when winter is gone. And even if there is an extremely early flush of green life that gets nipped, most of the stored energy is still in the wood and roots and all will be well. Green has always prevailed and it always will.
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It’s Not Too Late to Plant!
Autumn is the best time to plant perennials, trees and shrubs. They can still be planted in the ground even if there is a thin crust of frost in the soil. Fall is the best time to plant because nature offers the perfect environment of cool temperatures and abundant water. Plant materials are still working to establish themselves in the late fall and very early spring and usually require little help from humans. Most trees and shrubs in late fall have fulfilled their annual growth and are shutting down for the winter. It can only benefit any plant to be set free of its pot and placed in soil. In late fall and early spring the growth of new roots happens underground before we even see any life above the soil.
Perennials can be set into the ground with great success at this time. Mulching to a depth of 2 – 3 inches will reduce root ball throw. The processes of freezing and thawing will push un-rooted root balls up and out of the soil. This is easily resolved by visiting newly planted perennials in very early spring and pressing them back down into their holes gently but firmly with your toes. The root balls make contact with the soil again and they proceed to root out into it.
There will be some failures of course. But for the most part there is success in fall garden plantings. Some perennials are finicky and require a full summer of growth in place before they can endure a winter. Tricky plants are wonders that we gardeners all enjoy figuring out along the way. For some reason there can be more time for gardening in the fall than there is in the spring. For some, a new home only begins to settle in the fall and gardening becomes a new delight. It is not too late!
It is best not to put any soil additives in the hole or on top of the soil when planting in the fall. The plants are going to sleep and need no food. Water is still important however and keeping new plantings watered well – even in the fall – is key to success. When spring comes, keep an eye to the newly planted materials for signs of dehydration and make sure that they receive adequate water.
For more information contact gardens@chippersinc.com.
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Our Fall 2011 Newsletter – Hot Off the Press!
GreenWords Newsletter Fall 2011
In this issue: Restore Your Flood Damaged-Landscape & Great Reasons to Schedule Winter Work Now!
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How to Restore Your Lawn In Irene’s Aftermath
For those with a home lawn in a flood plain or next to a waterway, removal of as much sediment and silt becomes job one. Many will opt for a professional with equipment capable of moving large volumes of river sediment. This is especially important to the homeowner as there is a high likelihood that the silt and sediment, being of the finest particle size, will trap and contain petroleum products, organic waste, or other undesirable materials. Leaving the removal of such sediment to a professional can provide a measure of comfort to the home owner versus attempting such a daunting task themselves given the inherent risks. After this “river frosting” is removed, the next phase is lawn restoration either this fall or next spring.
Freshly Reseeded Lawn and Hay Spreading
Damaged lawns will fall into two main categories ranging from a complete reinstallation with truck loads of loam down to basic turf treatments like core aeration, calcium lime, and fertilizer. The more extensive the flooding and sediment layer, the more likely loam will need to be brought in, spread out with a tractor, seeded, and then rolled. Any seeding this fall will pay dividends with quicker grass thickening versus having to wait for the soil to warm up and dry out next spring.
In many cases, a complete lawn renovation may well be the best choice compared to trying to patch up or fix thinned out or dead sections of lawn. Attempting to match any existing grasses can leave a calico appearance to a lawn while starting over allows more desirable blends to be utilized yielding a more consistent turf cover. Before proceeding with a complete restoration it may also be the opportune time to decide how much lawn you really want in your planted landscape – do you love it and like the maintenance chores or do you really dream of creating other outdoor living spaces with patios, walkways, and gardens with native flowers, shrubs and trees? Only you can answer this question that Irene has raised….
The second type of lawn repair would be a partial renovation where perhaps the back or front was buried in silt yet or another area simply became either submerged in water or soaked by heavy rain. Given the massive amount of rainfall during hurricane Irene, many soils, particularly sandy ones, will have lost significant nutrient value and will require supplemental treatment of Nitrogen and Potassium. In this scenario, a normal lawn would do well to receive a balanced, low to zero phosphate, slow release fertilizer treatment to aid in improving turf health this autumn.
Any energy stored in October and November will be used to repair and establish a healthy root system prior to winter resulting in a better spring green up (see ‘winterizer’ blog post at mrgrassblog.net). A high calcium lime treatment will aid in softening the soil itself while adjusting soil pH into a desirable range for the new and existing turf. Core aeration is an excellent tool to reduce compacted soil, perhaps even those with some remaining sediment as a coating on the surface of the lawn. These situations can be further improved by overseeding once the lawn is aerated with a superior blend of turf grass.
Most lawns can be seeded into late October and still have some germination prior to winter in a normal growing season. Although you will not see a whole lot going on, taking the shot now is still normally worth the gamble of an early snow. I have seen great lawns emerge in the spring from a late seeding and in the case of this catastrophe, I think the ‘doing’ outweighs the ‘waiting’ in most cases.
Although lawns may rate low on the scale of post-Irene reconstruction compared to bridges, roads, or house repairs, ultimately the job will arise and when it does, doing it right makes more sense than to not.
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Irene Aftermath & Resources to Help Those In Need
Unlike many of our friends, neighbors, employees and other businesses, our VT Chippers location suffered relatively minor property damage. We appreciate the many expressions of support and concern coming our way but others are in far greater need. Our crews are currently assisting our communities with all phases of property clean up, debris removal, land restoration, lawn rebuilding, tree re-planting, water distribution, etc. If you want to donate or help, below is a list with a myriad of ways to contribute either time or money. We have several employees who have been displaced from their homes – please email contactus@chippersinc.com or call 866.683.6222 if you have a temporary housing lead in the greater Woodstock area.
DONATIONS
- Text FOODNOW to 52000 to donate $10 to Vermont Foodbank. The Foodbank will turn each donation into $60 for families in need.
- You can donate to the United Way’s Vermont Disaster Relief Fund online, or buy sending a donation to your local United Way. Just make sure your donation is marked for the “Vermont Disaster Relief Fund”.
- You can also donate to the American Red Cross of Vermont and the New Hampshire Valley. The Red Cross set up shelters immediately after Irene hit for flooded-out families to stay in. (Note: While all donations are appreciated, financial donations offer the Red Cross the greatest flexibility for response in this crisis. Donations can be made at www.vermontredcross.org or by calling 800-660-9130. For those who are interested in volunteering, they can contact their operations headquarters at 802-773-9159.)
- The VT Irene Flood Relief Fund is raising money to help people and communities affected by flooding. 100% of all donations will be distributed to businesses and families. The fund is being administered by Todd K. Bailey.
- Vermont Baseball Tours has set up the 8/28 Fund to raise money. Donations of $20 or more get you a cool t-shirt.
- The MRV Community Fund has been reestablished to help Mad River Valley farmers who saw devastating crop losses due to the flooding.
- Independent Vermont Clothing is selling a special “I’m With VT” t-shirt. All profits from sales of the shirt will go to relief efforts.
- I am Vermont Strong is selling t-shirts with that slogan, and all profits from the sales of the shirts will go to the Vermont Foodbank.
- Across the lake, upstate New York got hit hard by Irene, too. Donations are being coordinated on the Irene Flood Drive Facebook page.
- Burr and Burton Academy has started a fund to help relief efforts in the Manchester area.
- The Preservation Trust of Vermont is taking donations to help rebuilding and cleanup efforts for the historic buildings and bridges damaged by Irene. Make a donation on their site and be sure to note “Hurricane Relief” in the Comments section.
- The Intervale Center has started a fund to help the farmers at Burlington’s Intervale who lost their crops to flooding. To make a contribution, donate to the Intervale and designate your donation to the “Intervale Center Farmers Recovery Fund.” Or mail a check payable to Intervale Center Farmers Recovery Fund to the Intervale Center, 180 Intervale Road, Burlington, VT 05401.
VOLUNTEERING
- VTResponse.com is working to connect volunteers ready to help with those that need assistance. If you want to help clean up and rebuild, let the folks behind this site know.
- Woodstock VT Flood Response is coordinating volunteer efforts in that town through their Facebook page.
- Montpelier Alive is coordinating volunteer efforts in that city through their Facebook page.
- Volunteer and cleanup efforts are also being coordinated on Twitter via the #VTresponse hashtag.
- The Vermont Flooding 2011 page on Facebook is functioning as a community bulletin board of sorts.
- Vermont Helping Hands is also coordinating relief efforts via Facebook.
- The Red Cross is in desperate need of blood donations. Stop by their donation center at 32 North Prospect Street in Burlington, or the Alice Peck Day Memorial Hospital Blood Donation Center at 125 Mascoma Street in Lebanon, NH.
- Upper Valley Haven is operating with considerably fewer volunteers due to road closings. They’re looking for volunteers who are able to travel there.
MORE RESOURCES
- If you need assistance or information from the state, dial 211 or visit vt211.org.
- The Help Vermont Facebook group is another place to share recovery information.
- Sublet.com will provide free access for people who are displaced from their homes. Call their customer service line at 1-877-367-7368 for more information.
For child care providers who have been affected by Irene, check out the Resources for Relief (Child Care Providers of VT) page on Face
This listing provided in part by the VT Democratic Party.
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Is Core Aeration On Your Fall ‘To Do’ List?
Core aeration or aeration is a physical process that utilizes a heavy machine called an aerator. Similar to a garden rototiller, the aeration machine has a central shaft with 4 or 5 discs where the actual aeration tines are attached. There are several types of aerators: some utilize solid tines while others are hollow, allowing the machine to extract plugs as it drives over your lawn. These tines are designed to penetrate your lawn like using a cutter for cookies. Most aeration cores will vary between ½” and 1” in diameter and will be left on the surface of your lawn. The depth of a good core aeration job should vary between two and three inches. Core length is dependent on soil moisture, the weight of the machine and its ability to push down versus roll over compacted soil, as well as the age or length of the tines. Older tines become worn and must be replaced as they do not have the capacity to penetrate the soil with a blunt or worn tip. If you are considering a rental aerator, be sure to check the tips of the tines – the more pointed they are, the better. A blunt tine or one with a worn down tips will simply not pull a decent plug, although you may enjoy the exercise!
An aeration machine’s effectiveness is also dependent upon the weight of the unit and the speed at which is it used over the lawn. The faster the aeration job, the less likely the machine’s weight can push down, forcing the tines into the soil. In addition, most rentals are smaller, older units, enabling the average home owner to utilize the machine on a given weekend. Although these rental units may do an adequate job in terms of maneuvering given their shorter width, a commercial grade aerator weighs hundreds of pounds more and is strapped with not only weights, but also with a drum full of water. Basic physics dictates that using the right tool for the job, in this case a commercial aerator, will provide superior results.
Aeration can be done any time of the year, but typically it is done in the spring or fall when soil moisture is greatest to ensure good plugs. In addition, fall is the best time of year to over seed a lawn due to warm temperatures and more importantly, the absence of annual weeds like crabgrass that often interferes and reduces results. Overseeding introduces superior grass varieties after an aeration job. The seed germinates primarily in the aeration holes just like doing a hair transplant. Overseeding is not meant to fill in damaged lawns with large patches or bare areas: this would be more in line with topdressing and seeding that could be done in conjunction with an aeration job. Topdressing adds soil or compost in a thin layer allowing germination to take place in bare sections. Overseeding adds new grass to an existing lawn area and small bare spots, and helps thicken up an existing lawn or thin areas. Aeration and overseeding is not meant to establish a lawn or repair significant damage without the use of topdressing or lawn restoration. Aeration is a great process and should be done annually to help maintain good soil health while minimizing compaction.
What are the benefits of Aeration?
- Increased moisture penetration since the holes open up space for rain to reach the root system below. The surface of the soil is hardened from high heat and summer drought, and a lack of rain makes the surface of the lawn much harder to loosen up due to the baking action of summer heat.
- Increased oxygen exchange (important for healthy roots) especially in compacted and dry soils. Punching holes in the lawn will physically allow air to reach into the surrounding root systems, even as the hole begins to break down and fill back in with soil next spring.
- Reduces soil compaction (especially soils high in clay) caused by those summer parties or high use. Compacted soil does not promote healthy roots in grass or trees for that matter.
- Increases penetration of fertilizers and other lawn products due to the holes being made. The pellets or flakes simply roll into the plug and dissolve for faster results.
- Increases rate of thatch decomposition due to micro-organisms being brought up to the surface in the plug itself. There is no need to rake aeration plugs off a home lawn as they breakdown on their own in a short period of time.
- Increases root development due to the vacant space created by the aerator tine. The turf roots can expand outward and beyond in search of water, air, and nutrients in the soil.
If you don’t have aeration scheduled this year, give us a call and we can give you a proposal on aeration, as well as overseeding. If topdressing is necessary, we can also give you recommendations on this procedure. Aeration typically begins in mid to late August and runs right into October. If you are interested or have questions on this important process, be sure to give us a call or e-mail anytime. It will be back to school time before you know it!
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