Archive for the ‘Natives’ Category

American Hornbeam – Carpinus caroliniana

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 7th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the second segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Who wouldn’t like a tree with the moniker “muscle wood”? Also commonly called “blue beech” or “ironwood”, the American Hornbeam is a medium-sized native hardwood tree that, on average, reaches 20 to 30 feet in height and width. Ironwood has a range from Nova Scotia through most of the eastern seaboard of the US, to include the topmost section of Florida, and westward to roughly the middle of the central time zone. It is hardy in zones 3 – 9.

The young bark is smooth and the subtly twisted trunk looks rather sinewy. As it ages the bark becomes fissured and fluted. The form can range from a multistemmed shrub to a single stemmed tree. The growth rate is slow – about a foot per year. Enjoying moisture places it along brooks predominately in the wild. This is a tree for the understory! It is tolerant of deep shade, but also will perform in full sun with a good deep acid soil and promise of adequate fertilizer and moisture. It is also a fine tree for naturalizing.

The leaves resemble that of beech. It is a simple leaf 3 – 4” long with sharp teeth. Fall color is exceptional, displaying red, maroon, orange and gold. The tree exhibits both male and female flowers that are lovely in display, and the resulting fruits are numerous nutlets prized by birds.

Carpinius caroliniana is one of my most favorite trees, even though I know I tend to say this many times about many trees. But, this understory specimen amid taller limbed up trees is a true delight in the fall that will yield wildlife activity further along in the season. I have seen an absolutely sublime alley made of American Hornbeam – the medium texture was kind on the eye and the fall display was robust.

Eastern Redbud – Cercis canadensis

Published by Mrs. Flower on December 19th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the first segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series…

What better time than now, during the first days of winter, to be thinking about the early flowering trees of spring? Eastern redbud is perhaps my favorite blooming tree. It is certainly one of the finest native flowering trees. What I like about this tree is not only that it is one of the earliest blooming, but in the way that the profuse pinkish purple blooms seem to explode right out of the pores of the bark! There are white blooming varieties as well.

Upon inspection of the bark, on the branches and trunk, it is smooth with tiny bumps. Then quickly the knurls fatten and unfurl into a multi-stemmed bunch of 4-8 tiny flowers covering a leafless tree. Completely gorgeous.  It flowers on old wood. The flowers are bisexual and the tree is self-pollinating.

The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects. The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects.  Hence it becomes a busy little community of life. The seeds look like pea pods and this is because the genus comes from the legume family – Fabaceae. They form over the course of the summer and are attractive to seed eating birds – Cardinals being my favorites. The seed can be germinated after scarification with sulfuric acid for about a half hour and then given 6 – 8 weeks of cold treatment. The seed does have an internal dormancy, but most will germinate with proper care.

As if the 2-3 week flowering period is not enough, the young leaves appear as small cranberry colored hearts that grow to a large 4” blue green cordate leaf.  The leaves turn an exceptional golden yellow in the fall. This little tree can be used in a garden setting and it is possible to utilize it as a shrub with selective pruning. The redbud is not especially vulnerable to pests and diseases. This is a versatile genus that is easy to grow and take care of.

The cercis is a medium textured, short-lived deciduous tree found throughout the eastern United States. It is tolerant of most soil types, except refuses to be happy in constantly wet soils. It has a deep taproot and is aggressive in establishment in full sun to part shade. The average height is 15-20′ and the spread is 18-25′. It has a lovely horizontal branching, rotund form.  The growth rate is medium, which makes it perfect for the garden, as it will not quickly take over. Most rapid growth occurs in youth, in the first 5–6 years, when it can grow 6–10’, then growth is slow. The Eastern Redbud is a native tree that is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Be careful not to acquire a tree that has come from seed stock grown in the south as, most likely, it will not be hardy to far north conditions.

I have a variety called  ‘Forest Pansy’ in my garden that is hardy to zone 5. While I am in zone 4, I have enjoyed this little tree for five years.I always lose the branches every winter and I cut them back, fearing that this might be the end, but the tree keeps flushing forth with BIG dark purple hearts which turn various shades of apricot in the fall.

Visitors always ask what it is. It has never, and may never bloom because I have to keep pruning the winter kill – but I love this tree so much. Even if it does expire, I will surely replace it with another.

I am dying to try a new cultivar ‘Rising Sun’ which has golden tangerine heart -shaped foliage summer through fall; new leaves are bright rosy apricot. It grows to a height of 12’, which would be perfect as a garden framework maker. It is hardy to zone 5, but I do enjoy pushing my limits!

 

 

The Deep Sleep is Looming

Published by Mrs. Flower on November 14th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

The processes of plant dormancy begin with triggers that indicate the growing season is nearing end and that winter is approaching. Obvious signs would be the shortening of daylight hours, reduced water, reduced food resources and cooler temperatures. Plants are capable of being fooled out of the process of senescence. Many gardeners have seen perennials, shrubs and trees suddenly show what appears to be spring growth. This often happens if plants that are supposed to be getting ready for dormancy are given fertilizer late in the season, or if there is unusual extended warmth and rain. This is why it is best not to fertilize late in the season, or during autumn planting and transplanting.

It is possible to make a plant that is seasonal stay awake for up to two seasons. Using a Japanese maple as an example; one could bring it indoors and keep it “awake” for a two-season period. But most likely, soon enough, it will die because this type of extreme treatment will exhaust the plants’ stores. This is why it is not a great idea to try to grow anything other than tropical as houseplants.

When the season end “triggers” mount up, signaling end game, processes like pulling the last remaining nutrients from the leaves and transporting them down into crowns and or, roots for winter storage are happening. Plant cells start to reduce the amount of water contained within the cell walls. This small amount of remaining liquid is sugar-laden and acts as a sort of plant antifreeze. This sugary liquid will not expand with freezing temps and explode the plant cells, which causes cell death.

Some plants actually have a capability of having a dormancy set point. These plants require a specific number of hours of dormancy before they awaken for the season. This works well for those times when spring comes suddenly and for a short spell. Gardeners worry when they see spring growth way before the last frosts have finished, and this seems to be happening more these days. But have faith that plants do know when winter is gone. And even if there is an extremely early flush of green life that gets nipped, most of the stored energy is still in the wood and roots and all will be well. Green has always prevailed and it always will.

 

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Hummingbirds Are Back In Town….

Published by Mrs. Flower on May 17th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

I’m a complete nut for ruby throated hummingbirds. They are fleeting tiny jewels that bring utter delight to the viewer. I could spend hours watching them. Surely, it would be a cliché to say that they are my favorite bird. That aside, I know I am in good company to say that I anxiously awaited their arrival this spring. The return of the hummingbirds means rebirth and utter joy to me. They make me happy. Even though they only live 3 or 4 years, my hummingbirds are the same genetic family that I have known since I have lived in my house. Studies have shown that these tiny birds return to the place from where they hatched. We have a “heart thing” going on (fact: a hummingbird heart beat 21 times per second). Last year, a mother hummingbird lined all of her chicks out on a line right over my head for me to admire. I leaned back in my chair and just watched them – agog with wonder. They were the size of my baby finger, and they pushed and pecked at each other, as children will.

Ruby throated hummingbirds spend their winters in southern Mexico and northern Panama. Most make the arduous journey across the Gulf of Mexico to make it back to their summer feeding ranges. This over water trip is 500 miles long, and can take 18-22 hours. Sometimes they travel with other larger birds, but do not, as lore tells, travel in the armpits of geese. Hummingbirds have too much dignity for such travel accommodation, and I suspect their accumulated frequent travel miles suffice.

This mild season that we have had has brought hummingbirds sooner than usual this year. They arrived a full week earlier than last year. And when they got here, I was ready! My favorite hummingbird migration site on the internet is www.hummingbirds.net. I saw that someone sighted them on April 4th in the Boston area. My old records show them arriving the first week of May, or thereabouts. But as years have gone by, they have been arriving earlier and earlier. The males arrive a couple of weeks ahead of the females and will search for a summer residence. Most people don’t know that hummingbirds eat soft-bodied bugs like flies and mosquitoes, as well as sap from certain trees, and flower nectar. Since there are not many nectariferous flowers or bugs available, this early in the season, feeders will help them establish their territory.

Hummingbirds are protein eating machines and the nectar is the fuel they use to power their enterprise. They do like a little rest as they sip, so I like to use the feeders that have perches. I also prefer the feeders that are easy to clean. The ones I use look like flying saucers. They have shallow, easy to clean bowls, with a wide flat screw-on red top, complete with perches and holes. Red coloring on the feeder itself will help to attract them initially. Later in the season, the nectar can get moldy, due to the bacteria that is introduced from the bird’s beaks. The bothersome skinny necked bottle feeders make clean-up a difficult chore.

Hummingbirds do not need the red colored hummingbird powder bought from stores, which is mixed with water and poured into the feeders. A 1 to 4 mixture of table sugar (cane or beet sugar) to water is perfect. I usually mix 1/2 cup sugar to 2 cups of water to fill a couple of feeders at a time. The hummingbird does not need red food dye to attract it to feeders. Some people think that feeding with sugar water is ‘unnatural’ but the 21% sucrose content is consistent with natural flower nectar.

My gardens are filled with plants that attract nectar feeders (I love butterflies also).

Plants to Attract and Feed Hummingbirds

Trees and Shrubs

• Azalea

• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

• Flowering Quince

• Lantana

• Red Buckeye

• Weigela

Vines

• Morning Glory

• Scarlet Runner Bean

• Trumpet Creeper

Perennials

• Agastache

• Bee Balm

• Cardinal Flower

• Columbine

• Coral Bells

• Foxglove

• Hosta

• Hummingbird Mint

• Lupine

• Penstemon

• Yucca

Annuals

• Fuchsia

• Impatiens

• Petunia

• Various Salvia species

Last year I rescued a few from barns and sheds. They thanked me, as I was weeding in the flower beds, by hovering within a foot of my face, welcoming me to the garden. I have rescued perhaps 12 hummingbirds in my life. The first one was trapped in an interior window of a shed. It was frantic. I got real close and held my hand near it as it fluttered up and down the window pane…patience…patience. It got exhausted very quickly, and when it came to rest, I quickly – but ever so gently, pinned its wings at its shoulders between my thumb and index finger. As I held this tiny bird I could see the little wrinkled folds of its eyelids, and every iridescent pin sized feather shone in the light…amazing. Ever since then, I have considered myself somewhat of a specialist in hummingbird rescue. I have imagined having a business doing nothing but answering the call of hummingbird rescue. This would the sweetest of jobs in my estimation.

I am very exacting, as it would be easy to injure their wings if they try to take flight. Their wings can flutter up to 50 odd beats per second in flight. I suppose I should be reported, for this is an offense, as it is against the law (Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918.) I think this law was made to keep people from collecting birds to stick on their hats, or for whatever other purposes people touch birds. But if the bird police show up, and I must do the time for this extreme action, then I will gladly suffer the prison food. I cannot, under any circumstances, just stand back and watch them expire if I can be of help. The pleasure that I derive from hummingbirds is certainly one of my greatest joys in life, and administering to their needs is a chief ambition.

 

 

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