Archive for the ‘Plant Health Care’ Category

Finally, the Growing Degree Days Begin…

Yesterday, April 12, 2011, we finally had degree days! 6.6 per our Chippers weather station, and it was probably over 10 at lower elevations.

Growing degree days are used to predict the hatch/vulnerability of insects – in our case on woody plants. They are calculated by taking the high and low (in Fahrenheit) of each day, taking their average, and deducting 50. Negative numbers are thrown out, as happens all winter.

Insects that make an early appearance are White pine weevil (mostly a problem for spruce) and pear thrip (a problem for Sugar maples).

Today, April 13th, we had a GDD of 7.3 today. Some of what you will see up to GDD 50: Red maple, magnolia, some rhododendron, pieris and forsythia will all bloom. White pine weevil may be seen doing its dirty deeds at 60 degrees and above, and we are treating for these this week.

These insects are all vulnerable to dormant oil spray up until gdd 50: Scales, Aphids, Mealybugs, Psyllids, Aphids + Mites.

For more information on this topic, please visit our website, www.chippersinc.com.

An Insider’s View: 2011 Lawn Care Trends

The clock is ticking as companies prepare for the snow melt and the onset of the 2011 lawn care season.  In this blog post I shall briefly cover compost tea, kelp, fertilizer pricing, Mycorrhizae, and other trends worth exploring.

As petroleum prices rise, so does the cost of manufacturing basic fertilizer components.  Lawn care companies can expect to pay more for their fertilizer products in 2011, thus increasing the need to execute an effective and efficient turf program.  There has been one price increase already with perhaps another expected midyear.  Those companies unable to make sound business decisions may become a thing of the past.  Some price increases may inevitably be passed onto the consumer as pressure builds to make a profit in a highly competitive industry.

The bell continues to toll for fundamental changes utilizing basic soil and environmental processes in the lawn care industry to move further away from petroleum dependency. These options include inoculating seed with beneficial fungi called Mycorrhizae.  One inoculation allows this fungus to multiply and spread within a lawn area.  Long used in the tree industry, Mycorrhizae sets up a friendly relationship on the turf root system, breaking down surrounding nutrients and minerals.  The end result generally becomes a lessened demand on the quantity of fertilizer required due to this helpful relationship below ground.

There are still more options available beyond standard fertilizers such as compost tea and kelp both of which utilize actual plant material, minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and much more to help improve soil structure and thereby create a healthier lawn.  Compost tea usually contains beneficial bacteria, sugars, and kelp, all helping your grass become stronger while simultaneously improving the defensive mechanism to fight off insect and disease pressure.  Although there are lots of blends and types of compost tea, the general idea is to strengthen the lawn so it can withstand drought, insect, and disease pressure as it appears during the growing season.  Compost tea and kelp both help build the soil which is very often a large limiting factor in improving a lawn.  With many lawns containing high amounts of sand or minimal top soil, adding kelp and or compost tea becomes a very sound decision.

Both sea kelp and compost tea are not inexpensive, but they provide key materials not found in some fertilizers and they improve soil infrastructure.  Compare the investment in compost tea, kelp, or Mycorrhizae versus renovating your lawn and you are looking at saving thousands of dollars at a minimum.  Any lawn treatment that can help reduce fertilizer demand and build the soil is certainly worth exploring and perhaps even using in 2011.

Winter is the time to renew your Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Long and cold winter days and nights often have me daydreaming of once green lush lawns, gardens and trees.  And despite the recent blasts of cold and healthy snowfalls, now is time to think about and prepare for your 2011 Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Review your Turf and Plant Health Care proposals this winter

The weather plays a large role in the spring, relative to what and when certain treatments can be applied; and success or failure is linked to temperature and moisture levels.  High heat speeds up insect, weed, and disease development; and in some cases by days not weeks.  While this may not seem of great importance, temperature plays a huge role in advancing or retarding certain pathogens, ultimately affecting your landscape.  If you do not have a program “online” or ready to go, this tight window can easily be missed.  Cold weather can slow down the ability of your lawn to recover and green up fast.  The later the first application of fertilizer, compost tea, or lime is applied; the more your grass would be absent the time needed for improved color and recover from winter damage.

I have seen several years in April and May where the temperature rose into the high 70’s to lower 80’s.  This type of rapid spring warm-up can make some types of weed control applications harmful to turf without proper precautions.  The same precautions need to be taken when scheduling early plant health care spray applications.  If not prepared, you simply miss the window of opportunity for obtaining decent results relative to a variety of insect and disease issues.

Moisture content can also wreak havoc on turf and shrubs in the spring; especially if the spring is cold and rainy.  Such weather greatly advances snow molds and leaf spot on turf while creating apple scab on fruit trees.  Low moisture can reduce seed germination without proper irrigation.  Scheduling of overseeding or aeration during the winter insures completion at the proper time frame in the spring.  A great green care company will watch weather trends and activate services during the appropriate time frame.  You deserve and should demand this level of service.

Peace of mind is another reason to have your Turf or Plant Healthcare program set-up during the winter months.  You can relax and rest assured, knowing that your green care needs will be taken care of.  We will insure that all applications are timely and you will see the results.

The last fabulous reason to schedule your green care treatments during the winter includes financial incentives.  You may qualify for multiple incentives.  For example, if you prepay or return a signed contract before a certain deadline, you may qualify.  Look for these kinds of financial incentives; and look to see if you are partnering with an accredited, licensed, high quality and diversified ‘green care’ company.

Reducing Chances of Dutch Elm Disease

Published by Mr. Tree on November 16th, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Trees

Today we pruned a large elm tree in front of the Town Hall on Main Street in Hanover. William Desch, the towns’ arborist, knows pruned elms stand a much better chance of keeping Dutch elm disease at bay. In fact all of the town’s elms along with Dartmouth College’s elm trees are pruned and monitored in a good effort to keep them free of Dutch elm disease.

Why does pruning help? Dutch elm disease spreads from tree to tree primarily one way (to keep this post short I won’t even mention the lesser ways). The disease causing fungus is carried by an insect vector called the elm bark beetle. The beetles like to hang out under the bark of dead elm trees and the dead branches of otherwise healthy elm trees. Keeping elm trees free of dead or damaged branches reduces the threat and spread of the disease.

In addition to pruning elm trees, a good sanitation program must include the quick removal and disposal of infected trees if remedial treatment is considered ineffectual. Remedial treatments usually include: cutting behind the infection (removal of infected parts) and a follow-up fungicide treatment.

So, from 9am this morning till about noon, Bill Murphy one of our ISA certified arborists ascended the tree and pruned. The rest of us on the ground kept pedestrian traffic safely flowing while the Hanover Police graciously directed traffic.

The sun was shining, people were happy, and the tree was being preserved. It is Friday, and all is good!

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Tent Caterpillars In the Fall?

Published by Mr. Tree on August 6th, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care

fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea)

Have you seen webs in the trees this summer?

Do you know what causes it? The offending insect that creates the webbed nests is the larval stage of a moth. After spending a cold winter in the duff, and tired of watching TV in its cocoon (some have wifi), the pupae will emerge as an adult as early as late June to deposit eggs on the underside of leaves. These eggs will hatch within a week, quickly becoming a big family of hungry larvae, anxious to start spinning their silken webs over the leaves upon which to feed (most hardwoods are on the menu).
The name of this moth is fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea) and its webs appear in summer! It looks suspiciously like tent caterpillar – but don’t be fooled. Tent caterpillars are a spring insect, hatched and waiting to feed as the host trees leaves emerge.
What to do? Because fall webworm is a “late season insect” and the trees have had much of the spring/summer to produce food (photosynthate) they really cause little harm. Unlike the tent caterpillar, feeding on the emerging leaves of a hungry tree just awakened from a long winters sleep – fall webworm is an aesthetic nuisance – that’s all.
Do nothing? Doing nothing is an option – fall frost will end feeding, starting the cycle over again and the fall rains and winters snow will eventually wash the offending webs from the tree. You could manually remove the webs from the trees – but this can be difficult in a 50 foot tall cherry tree (a webworm favorite). July treatment with an insecticide will usually suppress this insect – unfortunately repeat applications are often necessary.

Ticks Are No Laughing Matter

Published by Mr. Grass on May 3rd, 2010 - in Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Turf

May is the ideal month to think about tick control measures for the upcoming season because the adults are waking up and crawling out in search of food – animals or you! While you may see a typical Dog Tick, you are not likely to see a Deer Tick, a primary vector of Lyme Disease. Therefore, treating your turf around the house and into the perimeter of fields or woods is an excellent means to reduce the adult population before they mate and seek out a blood meal. With the mild winter we just experienced this could be a banner year for all kinds of ticks in NH and VT.

Most tick control products work for 2-5 weeks depending upon the rate and type of material used. In fact, many new products are used in pet supplies and products found at your local pet or farm/garden supply store. If you don’t want to apply over-the-counter products yourself, the key to safety is using a responsible, licensed lawn care company like ours. You must have a license in NH or VT to treat for ticks, even if you use an organic or natural product! If you are targeting a pest, you must have insurance and have the training needed to treat for ticks. So before you try this yourself, you might want some advice from a professional.

Additional recommendations for tick control: keep grassy and weedy areas trimmed, and remove wood piles to reduce harborage for tick hosts. When entering potentially infested areas such grassy pastures, prairies, and woodlands wear long-sleeved shirts and long trousers with tight-fitting cuffs. Wear light-colored clothing because ticks are easier to see on a light background. When you are not adequately prepared as described above, avoid these tick-infested areas and restrict movement of your children and pets in these locations.  I know: very hard to do!  Enjoy the outdoors, but be sure to always use an insect repellent to help protect your family and friends.

For more information visit the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention ‘Stop Ticks’ page of their website.

Volcanoes We Humans CAN Actually Control

Published by Mr. Tree on April 22nd, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care, Trees

Ash isn’t the only problem with volcanoes (or lava) …. Recent volcanic activity in Iceland created a large “no fly” zone over northern Europe this past week but ‘mulch volcanoes’ here at home wreak havoc on our trees. These man made disasters may be responsible for one or more of the following problems associated with trees in the landscape:

  • Deep mulch may cause root rot from excess moisture retention
  • Piling mulch against the trunk or stems of plants can stress bark and cambial tissues and may lead to insect and disease issues
  • Some mulches can affect soil PH and can lead to micronutrient deficiencies or toxicities
  • Mulch piled high against the trunks of young trees may create habitats for rodents that chew the bark and can girdle the tree
  • Thick blankets of fine mulch can become matted and prevent the penetration of air and /or water and create an anaerobic situation

Properly installed mulch will:

  • Remove the need to use the string trimmer or mower near the trunk of the tree
  • Minimize moisture loss in dry weather
  • Moderate soil temperature
  • Reduce soil compaction by bringing the soil back to life
  • Reduce weed germination

What is proper?

  • Recess the mulch so it sits at grade (see last photo below)
  • Limit the depth to a few inches – less at the stem

Weed the mulch annually or remove and replace. Adding layers will eventually create too much depth.

Email me if you have a question about proper mulching techniques: askthearborist@chippersinc.com.

Newly Planted and Improperly Mulched Trees: An Arborist's Nightmare!

The Wrong Way to Mulch New Trees: Better Not To Mulch At All Than To Do This!

 

A Properly Mulched Tree Is A Happy Tree

 

Time to Take Action

Published by Mr. Grass on March 27th, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Turf

Spring is in the air and now is a super time to invest just a few moments for planning a landscape improvement project.  The first step to success is gathering proper information from experts that will pay dividends later in the season.  Some companies, like ours, will provide complimentary site evaluations for your trees, shrubs and turf.  The question then becomes: where to begin?  Start with a priority- what is important to you?  What would you like to see look healthier, greener perhaps, or is there a hazardous tree leaning in the wrong direction?  An expert will see things you simply cannot and save you lots of time and effort working on dead-end projects or applying products that will not work.

As a rule, many trees can be pruned to remove hazards, reduce disease, and provide both structural and aesthetic value.  A landscape can be improved “as is” with proper fertilization and/or treatments to reduce insect and disease issues.  If your current landscape is dying, dead, or unhealthy, get input on why things went south or better yet, what shrubs would be better replacementS for the site?  Get a free quote on the cost of installation, plant guarantee, and types of shrubs/trees used for maximum value in terms of flowering and hardiness.  Improving your yard not only provides visual enjoyment to you, the homeowner, but it raises the value of your property and can promote native birds and other desirable wildlife.  And, it just plain feels good!

The lawn is often the most affordable improvement in terms of quick visual impact.  Most turf areas can be improved “as is” and do not require costly major renovations.  Often a basic plan of natural fertilizer, calcium lime, kelp, and aeration with overseeding can really provide a dramatic impact within months if not weeks versus years for trees.  Lucky for you, we provide free estimates in all of these areas.  So pickup that phone or click on your e-mail account and make the first step: ask for help!  You won’t regret the time spent and even if you decide not to do a single thing this year, you will have a written plan on how to improve your own little paradise!

For more information, sign up for our free email newsletter at our website www.chippersinc.com. It is packed with nuggets you can use all year long!  Good luck and may this be your best summer yet!

Sapsuckers – Friend or Foe?

Published by Mr. Tree on March 17th, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care

I have been dealing with tree pests for many years – battling their hungry insect minions seeking to devour the trees in my care. My quiver is filled with an assortment of armaments and at times I relish the battle. There is an enemy though, a pest of another family… Picidae – the woodpecker family.

I like woodpeckers – and still have fond memories of Woody Woodpecker.  I’m also a fan of the large, loud and in my opinion, wonderful pileated woodpecker. But there is a woodpecker that lurks in your wood – and it likes the blood of your favorite trees (sap actually).

OK, it’s a sapsucker – from the genus Sphyrapicus and it could be the reason your birch, maple, apple and even some evergreens trees might be ailing. Sapsuckers prefer healthy, sweet sapped trees, and at times have no interest in insects. The numerous holes resulting from the bird’s borings are often too much damage for the tree to overcome – and the loss of the tree or affected stem is common.

If only the bird could be trained to feed on River birch!

Yellow- Bellied Sapsucker <- Click here to listen to the bird on audio!

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