Archive for the ‘Turf’ Category
Sing (and Dance!) Out the Old & Ring in the New!
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Ice Melt: You Really Do Get What You Pay For….
Rock salt is the cheapest and most basic of ice melting materials but it has many drawbacks for the price. Everyone knows the damage rock salt does to turf, tree & shrubs, concrete, brick, patios, steel and so many more materials. Rock salt is the cheapest ice melt but generally functions in the upper teens to lower 20’s F. Rock salt will do plenty of damage to concrete, patios, grass, trees, and shrubs when exposed to the briny solution as it soaks into the soil. Once spring arrives the moist, salty soil actually creates a drought condition around root systems resulting from the use of rock salt. Although rock salt is a cheap ice melting product, the replacement damage of beloved tree and shrubs far outweigh its regular use. Surprisingly enough, many folks still buy rock salt by the ton due to its “perceived” value as it relates to the price per bag. For a few dollars more, many other ice melting products are available with much less impact to the environment and landscaping materials such as brick, slate, and concrete.
Calcium chloride is a serious ice melting product that works at extreme low temperatures (-25 f), only found in New England on rare occasions. Unfortunately, calcium chloride is a very harsh chemical that requires the use of protective equipment such as gloves to protect against burning exposed skin. Calcium chloride is also very expensive, which brings into question why it would be used over other available products. Storage is important because unless the bags are sealed and kept dry, calcium chloride “melts” into itself by absorbing moisture in the air- thereby coming unusable. Calcium chloride will corrode steel so makes it a poor choice for use on concrete sidewalks. Most calcium chloride pellets are round and therefore roll on inclines unlike crystalline ice melters. While other ice melts can provide physical traction after use, the round pellets of calcium chloride cannot provide any such benefit. Calcium chloride is labeled on the bag as a severe irritant to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.
There are many environmentally friendly ice melting materials on the market. Unfortunately, because ice melts are not regulated by the Federal government, an associated MSDS sheet can be most vague without exhaustive research. After much research ourselves, we have decided to offer Natural Ice Melt as an alternative to the aforementioned products. Performance must be balanced with cost and benefits depending upon the planned use such as on a driveway, near a valuable landscape or around pets. So the next time you are staring at a pallet of ice melt at the Home Depot, maybe you will think twice before reaching for the lowest price bag because… are you really saving any money? If you have more questions about ice melt, please contact turf@chippersinc.com.
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Overcome Those Matted Leaves Despite Snowtober!
Most folks got at least a few inches of snow this past weekend during a record setting October snow storm. The impact on your lawn can be summed up in a few basic scenarios with the first involving moderate to substantial leaf litter on the ground, now snow-covered. Left uncollected, these piles of leaves can be trouble for your lawn as colder weather approaches with snow that will not melt until spring. As soon as you can remove leaf piles and other debris brought down by the heavy, wet snow you should plan on doing so to prevent smothering areas of your lawn. The thicker the leaf pile, the better it will mulch your grass leaving dead spots and bare areas next year.
If you have your driveway plowed, now is a great time to put up stakes marking the edge of the lawn indicating the transition from gravel or pavement to grass. Snow plow damage becomes visible in the spring time as snow recedes, exposing chunks of sod and grass tossed aside to dry out and die. Without help, snow plow operators can have difficulty determining where your driveway ends and the lawn begins. Such an error is commonplace during late night snow storms and can result in significant lawn damage. Using posts, stakes, or sticks can provide a simple, yet effective signal and minimize or prevent the edge of your lawn from being “relocated.”
Even though it is now November, if you got caught with your lawn still needing another cut- say over 3” in height- don’t feel odd pulling out your mower for one last farewell mowing. Many folks can remove leaves and mow simultaneously so this is a great opportunity to “get two birds with one stone” as the saying goes. A clean, short cut in November is one way you can say ‘I love you’ to your lawn before the onset of winter.
Many tree limbs were damaged by the weight of the snow with leaves still turning colors, many of those leaves still green! Be sure to have those branches cleanly pruned to help reduce future insect and disease damage. Of course, remove as many downed branches as you can from your grass, leaving the lawn surface as clean as possible before winter truly arrives. Completing these basic housekeeping items can give your landscape the edge it might need to survive an unpredictable winter.
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Our Fall 2011 Newsletter – Hot Off the Press!
GreenWords Newsletter Fall 2011
In this issue: Restore Your Flood Damaged-Landscape & Great Reasons to Schedule Winter Work Now!
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How to Restore Your Lawn In Irene’s Aftermath
For those with a home lawn in a flood plain or next to a waterway, removal of as much sediment and silt becomes job one. Many will opt for a professional with equipment capable of moving large volumes of river sediment. This is especially important to the homeowner as there is a high likelihood that the silt and sediment, being of the finest particle size, will trap and contain petroleum products, organic waste, or other undesirable materials. Leaving the removal of such sediment to a professional can provide a measure of comfort to the home owner versus attempting such a daunting task themselves given the inherent risks. After this “river frosting” is removed, the next phase is lawn restoration either this fall or next spring.
Freshly Reseeded Lawn and Hay Spreading
Damaged lawns will fall into two main categories ranging from a complete reinstallation with truck loads of loam down to basic turf treatments like core aeration, calcium lime, and fertilizer. The more extensive the flooding and sediment layer, the more likely loam will need to be brought in, spread out with a tractor, seeded, and then rolled. Any seeding this fall will pay dividends with quicker grass thickening versus having to wait for the soil to warm up and dry out next spring.
In many cases, a complete lawn renovation may well be the best choice compared to trying to patch up or fix thinned out or dead sections of lawn. Attempting to match any existing grasses can leave a calico appearance to a lawn while starting over allows more desirable blends to be utilized yielding a more consistent turf cover. Before proceeding with a complete restoration it may also be the opportune time to decide how much lawn you really want in your planted landscape – do you love it and like the maintenance chores or do you really dream of creating other outdoor living spaces with patios, walkways, and gardens with native flowers, shrubs and trees? Only you can answer this question that Irene has raised….
The second type of lawn repair would be a partial renovation where perhaps the back or front was buried in silt yet or another area simply became either submerged in water or soaked by heavy rain. Given the massive amount of rainfall during hurricane Irene, many soils, particularly sandy ones, will have lost significant nutrient value and will require supplemental treatment of Nitrogen and Potassium. In this scenario, a normal lawn would do well to receive a balanced, low to zero phosphate, slow release fertilizer treatment to aid in improving turf health this autumn.
Any energy stored in October and November will be used to repair and establish a healthy root system prior to winter resulting in a better spring green up (see ‘winterizer’ blog post at mrgrassblog.net). A high calcium lime treatment will aid in softening the soil itself while adjusting soil pH into a desirable range for the new and existing turf. Core aeration is an excellent tool to reduce compacted soil, perhaps even those with some remaining sediment as a coating on the surface of the lawn. These situations can be further improved by overseeding once the lawn is aerated with a superior blend of turf grass.
Most lawns can be seeded into late October and still have some germination prior to winter in a normal growing season. Although you will not see a whole lot going on, taking the shot now is still normally worth the gamble of an early snow. I have seen great lawns emerge in the spring from a late seeding and in the case of this catastrophe, I think the ‘doing’ outweighs the ‘waiting’ in most cases.
Although lawns may rate low on the scale of post-Irene reconstruction compared to bridges, roads, or house repairs, ultimately the job will arise and when it does, doing it right makes more sense than to not.
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Irene Aftermath & Resources to Help Those In Need
Unlike many of our friends, neighbors, employees and other businesses, our VT Chippers location suffered relatively minor property damage. We appreciate the many expressions of support and concern coming our way but others are in far greater need. Our crews are currently assisting our communities with all phases of property clean up, debris removal, land restoration, lawn rebuilding, tree re-planting, water distribution, etc. If you want to donate or help, below is a list with a myriad of ways to contribute either time or money. We have several employees who have been displaced from their homes – please email contactus@chippersinc.com or call 866.683.6222 if you have a temporary housing lead in the greater Woodstock area.
DONATIONS
- Text FOODNOW to 52000 to donate $10 to Vermont Foodbank. The Foodbank will turn each donation into $60 for families in need.
- You can donate to the United Way’s Vermont Disaster Relief Fund online, or buy sending a donation to your local United Way. Just make sure your donation is marked for the “Vermont Disaster Relief Fund”.
- You can also donate to the American Red Cross of Vermont and the New Hampshire Valley. The Red Cross set up shelters immediately after Irene hit for flooded-out families to stay in. (Note: While all donations are appreciated, financial donations offer the Red Cross the greatest flexibility for response in this crisis. Donations can be made at www.vermontredcross.org or by calling 800-660-9130. For those who are interested in volunteering, they can contact their operations headquarters at 802-773-9159.)
- The VT Irene Flood Relief Fund is raising money to help people and communities affected by flooding. 100% of all donations will be distributed to businesses and families. The fund is being administered by Todd K. Bailey.
- Vermont Baseball Tours has set up the 8/28 Fund to raise money. Donations of $20 or more get you a cool t-shirt.
- The MRV Community Fund has been reestablished to help Mad River Valley farmers who saw devastating crop losses due to the flooding.
- Independent Vermont Clothing is selling a special “I’m With VT” t-shirt. All profits from sales of the shirt will go to relief efforts.
- I am Vermont Strong is selling t-shirts with that slogan, and all profits from the sales of the shirts will go to the Vermont Foodbank.
- Across the lake, upstate New York got hit hard by Irene, too. Donations are being coordinated on the Irene Flood Drive Facebook page.
- Burr and Burton Academy has started a fund to help relief efforts in the Manchester area.
- The Preservation Trust of Vermont is taking donations to help rebuilding and cleanup efforts for the historic buildings and bridges damaged by Irene. Make a donation on their site and be sure to note “Hurricane Relief” in the Comments section.
- The Intervale Center has started a fund to help the farmers at Burlington’s Intervale who lost their crops to flooding. To make a contribution, donate to the Intervale and designate your donation to the “Intervale Center Farmers Recovery Fund.” Or mail a check payable to Intervale Center Farmers Recovery Fund to the Intervale Center, 180 Intervale Road, Burlington, VT 05401.
VOLUNTEERING
- VTResponse.com is working to connect volunteers ready to help with those that need assistance. If you want to help clean up and rebuild, let the folks behind this site know.
- Woodstock VT Flood Response is coordinating volunteer efforts in that town through their Facebook page.
- Montpelier Alive is coordinating volunteer efforts in that city through their Facebook page.
- Volunteer and cleanup efforts are also being coordinated on Twitter via the #VTresponse hashtag.
- The Vermont Flooding 2011 page on Facebook is functioning as a community bulletin board of sorts.
- Vermont Helping Hands is also coordinating relief efforts via Facebook.
- The Red Cross is in desperate need of blood donations. Stop by their donation center at 32 North Prospect Street in Burlington, or the Alice Peck Day Memorial Hospital Blood Donation Center at 125 Mascoma Street in Lebanon, NH.
- Upper Valley Haven is operating with considerably fewer volunteers due to road closings. They’re looking for volunteers who are able to travel there.
MORE RESOURCES
- If you need assistance or information from the state, dial 211 or visit vt211.org.
- The Help Vermont Facebook group is another place to share recovery information.
- Sublet.com will provide free access for people who are displaced from their homes. Call their customer service line at 1-877-367-7368 for more information.
For child care providers who have been affected by Irene, check out the Resources for Relief (Child Care Providers of VT) page on Face
This listing provided in part by the VT Democratic Party.
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Is Core Aeration On Your Fall ‘To Do’ List?
Core aeration or aeration is a physical process that utilizes a heavy machine called an aerator. Similar to a garden rototiller, the aeration machine has a central shaft with 4 or 5 discs where the actual aeration tines are attached. There are several types of aerators: some utilize solid tines while others are hollow, allowing the machine to extract plugs as it drives over your lawn. These tines are designed to penetrate your lawn like using a cutter for cookies. Most aeration cores will vary between ½” and 1” in diameter and will be left on the surface of your lawn. The depth of a good core aeration job should vary between two and three inches. Core length is dependent on soil moisture, the weight of the machine and its ability to push down versus roll over compacted soil, as well as the age or length of the tines. Older tines become worn and must be replaced as they do not have the capacity to penetrate the soil with a blunt or worn tip. If you are considering a rental aerator, be sure to check the tips of the tines – the more pointed they are, the better. A blunt tine or one with a worn down tips will simply not pull a decent plug, although you may enjoy the exercise!
An aeration machine’s effectiveness is also dependent upon the weight of the unit and the speed at which is it used over the lawn. The faster the aeration job, the less likely the machine’s weight can push down, forcing the tines into the soil. In addition, most rentals are smaller, older units, enabling the average home owner to utilize the machine on a given weekend. Although these rental units may do an adequate job in terms of maneuvering given their shorter width, a commercial grade aerator weighs hundreds of pounds more and is strapped with not only weights, but also with a drum full of water. Basic physics dictates that using the right tool for the job, in this case a commercial aerator, will provide superior results.
Aeration can be done any time of the year, but typically it is done in the spring or fall when soil moisture is greatest to ensure good plugs. In addition, fall is the best time of year to over seed a lawn due to warm temperatures and more importantly, the absence of annual weeds like crabgrass that often interferes and reduces results. Overseeding introduces superior grass varieties after an aeration job. The seed germinates primarily in the aeration holes just like doing a hair transplant. Overseeding is not meant to fill in damaged lawns with large patches or bare areas: this would be more in line with topdressing and seeding that could be done in conjunction with an aeration job. Topdressing adds soil or compost in a thin layer allowing germination to take place in bare sections. Overseeding adds new grass to an existing lawn area and small bare spots, and helps thicken up an existing lawn or thin areas. Aeration and overseeding is not meant to establish a lawn or repair significant damage without the use of topdressing or lawn restoration. Aeration is a great process and should be done annually to help maintain good soil health while minimizing compaction.
What are the benefits of Aeration?
- Increased moisture penetration since the holes open up space for rain to reach the root system below. The surface of the soil is hardened from high heat and summer drought, and a lack of rain makes the surface of the lawn much harder to loosen up due to the baking action of summer heat.
- Increased oxygen exchange (important for healthy roots) especially in compacted and dry soils. Punching holes in the lawn will physically allow air to reach into the surrounding root systems, even as the hole begins to break down and fill back in with soil next spring.
- Reduces soil compaction (especially soils high in clay) caused by those summer parties or high use. Compacted soil does not promote healthy roots in grass or trees for that matter.
- Increases penetration of fertilizers and other lawn products due to the holes being made. The pellets or flakes simply roll into the plug and dissolve for faster results.
- Increases rate of thatch decomposition due to micro-organisms being brought up to the surface in the plug itself. There is no need to rake aeration plugs off a home lawn as they breakdown on their own in a short period of time.
- Increases root development due to the vacant space created by the aerator tine. The turf roots can expand outward and beyond in search of water, air, and nutrients in the soil.
If you don’t have aeration scheduled this year, give us a call and we can give you a proposal on aeration, as well as overseeding. If topdressing is necessary, we can also give you recommendations on this procedure. Aeration typically begins in mid to late August and runs right into October. If you are interested or have questions on this important process, be sure to give us a call or e-mail anytime. It will be back to school time before you know it!
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Prevent Lawn Despair During Our Dog Days of Summer
Midsummer weather can put even a great looking lawn into a slow dive of despondency without careful attention. As the heat kicks into high gear, soil temperatures reach their smoking point and crabgrass seeds begin germinating in earnest, popping like corn in a microwave. Limey green crabgrass plants appear virtually overnight exposing vulnerable areas along driveways, patios, walkways, mailboxes among others. Where did they come from? How can they grow so fast? Ah, the games have just begun!
If you have not watered and your lawn is cut short, now is when your thin lawn becomes choked out with crabgrass plants the size of small cars. During hot, humid weather, cool season grasses will stop growing, sitting idle while crabgrass seemingly grows an inch an hour, basking in the searing July heat. A weak or thin lawn, or those lacking a pre-emergent crabgrass barrier, are now at high risk for a crabgrass invasion that will only cease when school reopens. While post-emergent sprays do exist, spraying at this stage is like using a garden hose on a house fire: it’s best just to let nature take its course. Measures should be taken in the fall such as aeration, overseeding, lime, and turf thickening fertilizers to help prepare the lawn for the following spring. A healthy lawn resists this invasion, and although areas may see some crabgrass, it will not be to the point where one could harvest the greenery for salads.
A casual glance toward the interior of your lawn may reveal disturbing patches and blotches of varying sizes and colors ranging from brown to white. How can this be? What went wrong? Like a good CSI episode, it is time for the facts to speak and rule out the guessing. These issues generally fall under environmental stress such as heat, sun scald, or some other non-pathogenic source. Ruling out diseases can be very tricky depending upon the weather, timing, and location of injury. This summer has seen a significant upswing in disease-related damage ranging from pits and scars, to unusual patches. Preventative measures can be taken to help clean up your lawn with either traditional or organic treatments. Insects are perhaps the easiest to detect given their predicable nature and timing during the season. Now is a perfect time to treat for grubs, sod webworm, and chinch bugs using either organic or traditional materials.
Doing some simple things properly for your lawn during the next six weeks can reduce unsettling issues arising from disease, insects, and environmental stress. Summer is generally not the best time to spray for difficult to control broadleaf weeds like ground ivy and violets since high heat and low soil moisture content reduce product effectiveness. If you think you have an invasion at your house, get it checked out and maybe there is a solution to either stop the problem or slow the damage. Plan ahead and keep your turf clean and green!
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Lawn watering, from green to brown….
June is typically a transition month from cooler wet weather to warmer and drier weather in NH and VT. While you may enjoy the warmer weather, your lawn is composed of cool season grasses and disapproves of 80 or 90 degree days. Your grass is designed to flourish in 60 or 70 degree temperatures, but set the weather to broil and you will have consequences. For instance, even a healthy green lawn with plenty of water is still susceptible to leaf scorch – a condition similar to taking a vacation in Mexico in January. The lawn has succulent leaves, full of moisture, and they may not be fully prepared for hot weather. I have seen lawns turn from a vibrant green to patches of white or tan overnight! I can hear the phrase “what happened?” echo down the street from front porch to porch.
How can such a thing be prevented? You can mow regularly with a sharp blade to 3 inches, not too short as to cause stress. Don’t over fertilize either because too much of a good thing is never healthy. A lawn cranked up on the golden juice of high soluble fertilizers is predisposed to stress and what we in the business call the classic “crash.” This crash is a like watching a nice sports car hit a concrete wall – most unpleasant. A lawn that is racing in terms of growth can be dangerous, especially if that same lawn runs out of soil moisture and/or hits a period of 90 degree days. This type of weather can spell all kinds of trouble for what seemed bliss for you as a homeowner. You may see all kinds of white blotching as “hot spots,” as the sunniest areas tend to dry out first and turn a dull purple or off green.
Don’t confuse this type of situation with summer diseases which may also be present. Dollar spot, brown patch, and a hoard of numerous villains await a weak, dry lawn, or one that stays wet overnight due to late watering or humidity. Drought stress or sun scald can mimic diseases like dollar spot or patch diseases during the summer. If you are in doubt, have a professional look in order to determine what course of action may be required.
When it comes to watering, anything is better than nothing when it comes to your lawn turning from green, to dull purple, to light tan, to all out brown. Drought stress, combined with hot weather, can cause a lawn to crash and brown out in mere days if left unattended. Any irrigation is better than no irrigation in the sense that once your lawn goes brown, it takes weeks to start new growth and push out new green leaves. Brown grass leaves don’t just rehydrate and turn green for the most part – they are gone and need to be replaced. Early intervention by watering can either minimize or prevent massive browning if done correctly. Most turf wants 1” of rainfall per week to continue normal activities. If you can water in the morning, this is preferred to help minimize disease and evaporation in the day’s heat. Watering for a soaking is better than a light misting. In other words, a 1hr soak is better than 15 minutes a day, yet 15 minutes a day is better than no irrigation at all. Early watering will yield faster results and help the lawn stay green before things turn tan or brown. Watch for those hazing dull patches, those sections that don’t bounce back after you walk over them so you can still see your footprints. These are the priority areas that need water versus turf that is still a vibrant green.
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