Posts Tagged ‘concord’

Eastern Leatherwood – Dirca palustris

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 27th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Trees

This is the third segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Here is a darling understory shrub with a height of 3 – 6’ and equal width. When I first noticed this plant in the dappled light of my woodland, I was love struck. This is a native plant that is found in the eastern half of North America. The multi branched broad shrub is covered with light green 3” oval shaped leaves. This is a very well behaved shrub. In the shade the plant seems to be reaching for the sun and is thinner than the specimens located in full sun, which tend to be full rounded shrubs. I like to hike along the southeast base of Mt. Hoar on the edge of Lake Willoughby, Vermont, the understory is dense with Leatherwood. I am amazed at the width of the leaves, which seem much larger than the standard.

You cannot go wrong with a plant that is good in both sun and shade. It does enjoy moist soil, hence the species “palustris” which means “of the swamps”.  The texture is of medium quality and it is slow growing. This makes a fine plant for the landscape, although it is very difficult to find in cultivation. This makes me covetous. Fall brings forth a fine clear yellow in the leaf, with best color in partial shade conditions.

Leatherwood has no enemies to speak of.  Even deer won’t browse it (it is thought to possibly have diuretic qualities). Studies recently done show that extracts from the seeds contain linoleic and oleic acid which have insecticidal qualities for specific insects.

The bark has a leathery feel. It is not easy to snap off a branch. This quality made it useful for Native Americans to make baskets, bowstrings and fish lines. In very early spring, the shrub bursts forth with lovely perfect 4” butter yellow flowers. Each flower produces one seed. The large green seeds form and drop quickly, literally within a week all seeds will drop from the plant. The seeds need to be collected and sown fresh in late spring for sprouting the following spring. Layering works as a method, but proves difficult as one would have to work in the woodland laboratory where anything can happen. Propagation from cuttings is very difficult, which of course baits me – making it a must try!

American Hornbeam – Carpinus caroliniana

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 7th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the second segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Who wouldn’t like a tree with the moniker “muscle wood”? Also commonly called “blue beech” or “ironwood”, the American Hornbeam is a medium-sized native hardwood tree that, on average, reaches 20 to 30 feet in height and width. Ironwood has a range from Nova Scotia through most of the eastern seaboard of the US, to include the topmost section of Florida, and westward to roughly the middle of the central time zone. It is hardy in zones 3 – 9.

The young bark is smooth and the subtly twisted trunk looks rather sinewy. As it ages the bark becomes fissured and fluted. The form can range from a multistemmed shrub to a single stemmed tree. The growth rate is slow – about a foot per year. Enjoying moisture places it along brooks predominately in the wild. This is a tree for the understory! It is tolerant of deep shade, but also will perform in full sun with a good deep acid soil and promise of adequate fertilizer and moisture. It is also a fine tree for naturalizing.

The leaves resemble that of beech. It is a simple leaf 3 – 4” long with sharp teeth. Fall color is exceptional, displaying red, maroon, orange and gold. The tree exhibits both male and female flowers that are lovely in display, and the resulting fruits are numerous nutlets prized by birds.

Carpinius caroliniana is one of my most favorite trees, even though I know I tend to say this many times about many trees. But, this understory specimen amid taller limbed up trees is a true delight in the fall that will yield wildlife activity further along in the season. I have seen an absolutely sublime alley made of American Hornbeam – the medium texture was kind on the eye and the fall display was robust.

What the Heuchera?!

Published by Mrs. Flower on April 27th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping

The genus Heuchera, or Coral Bells (AKA  American Alumroot) is a major contender for dream plant, in my opinion. Twenty years ago I was inspired by the Perennial Plant Association’s “Plant of the Year” Heuchera micrantha ‘Palace Purple.’ I had green coral bells in my gardens and enjoyed their panicles of clean little cerise bells. But ‘Palace Purple’ leaves were, well, purple! There was at that time, nothing like it. It became all the rage.  I went wild using it with silver leaved companion plants and soft pink flowering perennials.

Coral bells were never the main act in gardens in those years. Soon I got bored with them. Even worse, I grew aggravated because the Heuchera would heave out of the ground over the winter, looking like big silly elephants standing on balls.  Little did I know that they had fine shallow, fibrous roots. It never occurred to me to lift and bury them deeper – Ah, youth!  Hence, heuchera fell out of favor with me.

Six years ago, I was entrenched in my long quest to know more about native plant species. I was surprised to learn that Heuchera villosa, and H. americana were natives and that ‘Amethyst Myst,’ a new purple leaved cultivar, had exceptional attributes compared to ‘Palace Purple.’ I fell in love all over again. The villosa species was being used extensively as an intercross breeder for new varieties of heuchera, which made for larger leaves and colors. ‘Dale’s Strain’ was an americana species with better heat tolerance and fabulous veining.  Both species can be grown from seed easily, but hybridization using their gene pool has opened a cornucopia of new cultivars that has the gardening world agog.

Native heucheras span habitats from alpine mountainous regions to low-land forests, and all share common traits: gorgeous leaves, long bloom times, excellent hardiness, rotund mounded form, salt tolerance, longevity, non-invasive, plays well with others, competes well with tree roots  and have persistent leaves during the winter. They are virtually indestructible – I know this because I still have my Palace Purple from twenty years ago, even though at times, I wished them dead.

With the use of these two species, numerous leaf colors have evolved. One could garden exclusively with heuchera, and I dare say no color would be missed. A garden of heuchera would be an easy care display. I have yet to meet a coral bell not hardy to at least -30 degrees F. They like to be in moderately dry soil, usually in full sun. The lime or chartreuse varieties do better in part sun – but this would be the case for most spring green colored leaf plants. Heuchera leaves can range in color from the darkest almost black, ‘Obsidian,’ lime colored varieties, ‘Citronelle’ and ‘Key Lime Pie,’ orange toned, ‘Caramel’ and ‘Southern Comfort,’ purple shades like ‘Frosted Violet,’  bi-colored like the amber leaf edged in chartreuse, ‘Tiramisu.’  Certain cultivars change color in the cool of fall. ‘Green Spice’ is a lovely green with purple veins and it turns pumpkin orange in the fall. All are to-die-for cultivars.

H. villosa ‘Autumn Bride’ has enjoyed my high favor for a while. It has giant green leaves and blooms in late summer with big white foxtails, it is utterly spectacular.  But, two years ago, as I innocently perused the isles of a nursery, I was gobsmacked by a new heuchera called ‘Georgia Peach.’ I went slack-jawed – and my bubble gum landed in the gravel path at my feet. This peachy colored leaf is veined in a darker red. It is BIG and beautiful and I have managed to obtain several. Now I must change the color vignette of my entire perennial border to accommodate this new pet of mine.  I envision it with purple, blue, gold and white companions. It is not that I am fickle, but that I do know love when I see it.

 

Who’s Been Eating My Grass?

Published by Mr. Grass on April 20th, 2011 - in Landscaping, Turf

As the snow melts (eventually), you may find surface tunnels on your lawn. This can be a disturbing image and is most unpleasant. Voles, also known as field mice, will tunnel under the snow, eating the grass and shallow roots of your lawn. The result of this frozen dinner feast is a maze of tunnels created where the mice traveled. The extent of the damage can be minor such as leaves and thatch being eaten all the way to roots and shoots, a more severe result of mouse lawn damage.

Your best bet is to let the area recover in April and do some seeding in May once the soil warms up enough. Depending upon the extent and depth of the damage, you may not have to do anything, or as in this picture above, the soil is exposed, likely requiring some modest efforts to restore the grass to its original condition.

 

Finally, the Growing Degree Days Begin…

Yesterday, April 12, 2011, we finally had degree days! 6.6 per our Chippers weather station, and it was probably over 10 at lower elevations.

Growing degree days are used to predict the hatch/vulnerability of insects – in our case on woody plants. They are calculated by taking the high and low (in Fahrenheit) of each day, taking their average, and deducting 50. Negative numbers are thrown out, as happens all winter.

Insects that make an early appearance are White pine weevil (mostly a problem for spruce) and pear thrip (a problem for Sugar maples).

Today, April 13th, we had a GDD of 7.3 today. Some of what you will see up to GDD 50: Red maple, magnolia, some rhododendron, pieris and forsythia will all bloom. White pine weevil may be seen doing its dirty deeds at 60 degrees and above, and we are treating for these this week.

These insects are all vulnerable to dormant oil spray up until gdd 50: Scales, Aphids, Mealybugs, Psyllids, Aphids + Mites.

For more information on this topic, please visit our website, www.chippersinc.com.

Triple Treat Blueberries

Published by Mrs. Flower on March 15th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping

We all know by now that if we eat loads of blueberries, we will live forever, right?

This native American plant is one of many in the genus Vaccinium that also includes the cranberry, huckleberry, bilberry, deerberry and partridgeberry. These berries are highly favored by wildlife and the spring blossoms are very attractive to numerous indigenous nectar seeking butterflies, moths, wasps and bees (and humans). Hence the trio of horticultural benefits from our point of view: they are ornamental, edible and wildlife friendly.

Blueberry is a natural and rich source of antioxidants that include flavonoids (catechin, epicatechin), anthocyanin (which gives the blue pigment to the fruit), beta-carotene, phenolic compounds, and ellagic acid (ellagitannin). Blueberry is also high in antioxidant vitamins such as vitamin E, A and C and is an excellent source of fiber, no matter what life form eats them!

Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) or the low bush (Vaccinium angustifolium) are the fruits of which we humans are particularly fond. These well-behaved plants make extraordinary edible landscape shrubs that yield phenomenal fall color. The species angustifolium are the typical little Maine blueberry, and they make lovely ground cover or low hedging material. The corymbosum species can grow as tall as five to six feet and more with an equal width, and are the type of berry (for the most part) that we buy at the store.

Considering all of the obvious benefits of blueberries it is a mystery why every home does not have a few, if not several, of these plants tucked in and around the landscape. It is not necessary to have a ‘patch’. These plants are quite forgiving about location as long as they have six hours of sun. Bloom time for the plants spans from early to late spring. In northern zones, mid to late bloomers may insure that the blossoms are not killed by late frost. One should have more than one of each bush by bloom time (early, mid, late) for cross-pollination.

Blueberries prefer an acid soil in the 4.6 – 5.1 pH range. Fortunately, Vermont and New Hampshire have naturally acidic soil. The more organic matter added to the soil, and methods of organic care given, the more forgiving the plants are of any pH discrepancies. Composted coffee grounds, leaf mold, sawdust and cottonseed meal can keep the pH within range nicely. Once established all they need is an annual organic fertilizing treatment and two inches of water per week (especially for plumping up the set fruit). Once the shrubs are well established and growing for a few years, annual pruning is crucial to encourage new growth and a large berry harvest the next year.

One highbush blueberry plant, at maturity, can yield around two gallons of berries in a season. Berries are easy to freeze – no fuss required – just pop them into containers and freeze. Frozen berries have the same nutritional benefits of fresh berries and are incredibly easy to use.

Forecasting for a Rainy Day

Published by Mr. Tree on February 17th, 2011 - in Land Enhancement, Trees

Forecasting the weather has always seemed like the perfect job, at least to me. What other profession can you be employed in where you can make a reasonably good salary (I think) and be wrong better than 50% of the time. Despite the less than stellar prediction performance, people still tune in every day and night? Is that not the best job ever? Well, not as great as a job in the “green care” industry.
Another difficult area to forecast is our nations and our local economies. Will we be seeing greater prosperity in the near future? Is the current recovery long-term or temporary? Is our financial future safe and secure? Although these questions are difficult to answer, we do listen to those that forecast. And although we can’t see the future, the current forecast looks promising. However, it is still prudent to be prepared.
During these times of economic uncertainty there are proactive steps that can be taken. One step could be to establish a “rainy day” property account. Not only can you improve the health of your property, you can improve the health of your pocket. So, how can this “rainy day” property account be established? Forest management is the answer…
There are several key things to remember regarding Forest Management. First and foremost is the health of your forest. I look at the forest just as a gardener does their vegetable garden. A gardener weeds, removing all the bad stuff he or she doesn’t want growing in the garden. Weeding helps the garden crops reach their full potential. As a result, there are more nutrients for the vegetables, flowers and herbs to flourish. Sounds pretty straight forward, right? Let’s take a look at the first step to take regarding your forest…

The best way for your Forest to reach its full potential is to consult with a forester that is trained in the art and science of silviculture. Silviculture is the care and cultivation of forest trees; forestry. The forester can with his knowledge, evaluate your forest and develop a plan that meets your Forest Management and “rainy day” property account goals. Also, your forester is knowledgeable of the log markets and would best be able to determine when to harvest selected trees on your forested property. Furthermore, the forester will have relationships with the professionals that would harvest your forested crop. And these professional relationships are paramount to the success of the forest management plan.
Overall, Forest Management can and does have multiple mutually inclusive benefits to you the land owner and your forested property’s health. Additionally, the winter season is one of the best times to perform Forest Management operations. The frozen ground allows for substantially less degradation to the forest soils and minimizes erosion concerns. So take the first step today. Consult with a forester and a reputable company who can assist you in developing a Forest Management Plan and a “rainy day” property account. The result will be enhanced forest health, additional recreational opportunities, and wildlife diversity of your forest.

Analog In A Digital World

Have you ever missed seeing a clock, with hands? Hearing the tick, tick, tick as the second hand works its way around the circle. What about a little hiss (just a little) while listening to recorded music or even the notion of a space between the notes. How about a test that didn’t require a #2 pencil or a drive thru restaurant that isn’t duplicated around-the-world?

I have the antidote. Tree pruning! Pruning is all analog; every cut and snip is thoughtful and different. Each species requiring a different set of considerations; with location, age and client expectations all a part of the mix. Cookie cutter pruning just doesn’t work!

So what’s the big deal?

Our lives have been co-opted by the digital age. Think about it. Computers are everywhere. I use one at work, one for the office at home, and one connected to the television for streaming. My work phone thinks it’s a computer, telling me I have mail, an appointment or someone to talk to. And there’s an on-line social network with so many “friends”.

I’m no Luddite; I actually enjoy the anticipation of the next Apple device and how I might use it. I even plan to install an iPad in the kitchen for recipes and to Skype (live video) my mom.

My antidote? Get outside! I can’t think of a better analog activity than pruning. But a close second could include…working in the garden, snowshoeing, climbing a tree, riding a bike, badminton on the lawn, building a snowman, flying a kite, sailing, a walk in the forest – and so many more!

At chippers we mulled over creating a new tag line. I liked “see you outside”.  What could be a better yang for the yin of this digital world?

So at chippers, even though we are armed with our smart phones and computers that help keep us on time for our appointments; we understand that our real strength is when we “see you outside”. And we promise to leave the “cookie cutter” approach in the office and give you only the best analog work in your: Trees, Turf, Garden, Land and Forest.

Winter is the time to renew your Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Long and cold winter days and nights often have me daydreaming of once green lush lawns, gardens and trees.  And despite the recent blasts of cold and healthy snowfalls, now is time to think about and prepare for your 2011 Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Review your Turf and Plant Health Care proposals this winter

The weather plays a large role in the spring, relative to what and when certain treatments can be applied; and success or failure is linked to temperature and moisture levels.  High heat speeds up insect, weed, and disease development; and in some cases by days not weeks.  While this may not seem of great importance, temperature plays a huge role in advancing or retarding certain pathogens, ultimately affecting your landscape.  If you do not have a program “online” or ready to go, this tight window can easily be missed.  Cold weather can slow down the ability of your lawn to recover and green up fast.  The later the first application of fertilizer, compost tea, or lime is applied; the more your grass would be absent the time needed for improved color and recover from winter damage.

I have seen several years in April and May where the temperature rose into the high 70’s to lower 80’s.  This type of rapid spring warm-up can make some types of weed control applications harmful to turf without proper precautions.  The same precautions need to be taken when scheduling early plant health care spray applications.  If not prepared, you simply miss the window of opportunity for obtaining decent results relative to a variety of insect and disease issues.

Moisture content can also wreak havoc on turf and shrubs in the spring; especially if the spring is cold and rainy.  Such weather greatly advances snow molds and leaf spot on turf while creating apple scab on fruit trees.  Low moisture can reduce seed germination without proper irrigation.  Scheduling of overseeding or aeration during the winter insures completion at the proper time frame in the spring.  A great green care company will watch weather trends and activate services during the appropriate time frame.  You deserve and should demand this level of service.

Peace of mind is another reason to have your Turf or Plant Healthcare program set-up during the winter months.  You can relax and rest assured, knowing that your green care needs will be taken care of.  We will insure that all applications are timely and you will see the results.

The last fabulous reason to schedule your green care treatments during the winter includes financial incentives.  You may qualify for multiple incentives.  For example, if you prepay or return a signed contract before a certain deadline, you may qualify.  Look for these kinds of financial incentives; and look to see if you are partnering with an accredited, licensed, high quality and diversified ‘green care’ company.

Review your 2011 lawn contract before renewing

Published by Mr. Grass on November 23rd, 2010 - in Landscaping, Turf

Did your doctor ever advise you to get a second opinion? Or have you decided to get a second opinion when something just didn’t seem right? Keep that thought in mind while reading this post…
Hundreds of commercial lawn care contracts will be mailed out shortly to residential homes in VT and NH. Even more lawn contracts will be mailed out to commercial customers in the hopes that decision makers like you will just sign, mail, or simply fax it back with no questions asked. I propose that each contract deserves not only a second opinion, but a thorough examination line by line. Let me explain…
Most lawns are not being examined to determine its true treatment needs. Contracts for lawn accounts are being auto-renewed from prior year information like a CD player on repeat. While this automated process may lock you in and generate revenue for national and larger regional lawn care companies, I sincerely doubt you are receiving a turf care program worthy of your hard earned dollars. That is why I recommend that you schedule a complimentary turf & soil evaluation. But, I have more reasons…
Many lawns treated by the competition utilize heavy machines called Perma-greens, Turf-Trackers, or tractors. These machines do an adequate job on large properties or fields but are very heavy and are not ideally suited for your lawn. An operator can inadvertently cause damage while running the machine over frost covered lawns, shaded locations, and the sloped areas of your lawn. Turf can be easily compacted, torn, and ripped up without careful attention from the operator. If these facts don’t cause you to raise an eyebrow, please read on…
Does your treatment price seem great? The low price simply cannot be beat you say! Did you get a free lime treatment? Hmmm…did you really get a free lime treatment? If you get a free or reduced lime, you may receive it combined with a fertilizer treatment with a reduced amount of pelletized lime mixed into one application. The bottom line here is that you get what you pay for. If the price is lower, you are getting less product and/ or time treating your lawn. Are you ready for that free consultation yet? I have more…
Customer Service! Simply put, the large national chains do not provide adequate customer service. It is often outsourced to inexperienced customer service call centers. When you call, does your phone call get forwarded to a call center or does a local person answer your call? Are you able to reach the manager if you have a concern? Do they call you back promptly? Are you supporting your local economy or contributing to a national organization’s bottom line?
Before you sign on the dotted line this year, and before you pre-pay for your entire year upfront…get a second opinion from a local lawn care company. We welcome your questions and the opportunity to make your lawn healthy, green, and beautiful! So, give us a call to schedule a complimentary turf & soil evaluation. You will see and feel the difference…
If you are not in our service area, I have qualified companies I can recommend to you. Just leave a comment and I will get back to you.

Competition vs Chippers (green lawn is treated by Chippers)

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