Posts Tagged ‘Grass’

Overcome Those Matted Leaves Despite Snowtober!

Published by Mr. Grass on November 3rd, 2011 - in Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

Most folks got at least a few inches of snow this past weekend during a record setting October snow storm.  The impact on your lawn can be summed up in a few basic scenarios with the first involving moderate to substantial leaf litter on the ground, now snow-covered.  Left uncollected, these piles of leaves can be trouble for your lawn as colder weather approaches with snow that will not melt until spring.  As soon as you can remove leaf piles and other debris brought down by the heavy, wet snow you should plan on doing so to prevent smothering areas of your lawn.  The thicker the leaf pile, the better it will mulch your grass leaving dead spots and bare areas next year.

If you have your driveway plowed, now is a great time to put up stakes marking the edge of the lawn indicating the transition from gravel or pavement to grass.  Snow plow damage becomes visible in the spring time as snow recedes, exposing chunks of sod and grass tossed aside to dry out and die.  Without help, snow plow operators can have difficulty determining where your driveway ends and the lawn begins.  Such an error is commonplace during late night snow storms and can result in significant lawn damage.  Using posts, stakes, or sticks can provide a simple, yet effective signal and minimize or prevent the edge of your lawn from being “relocated.”

Even though it is now November, if you got caught with your lawn still needing another cut- say over 3” in height- don’t feel odd pulling out your mower for one last farewell mowing.  Many folks can remove leaves and mow simultaneously so this is a great opportunity to “get two birds with one stone” as the saying goes.  A clean, short cut in November is one way you can say ‘I love you’ to your lawn before the onset of winter.

Many tree limbs were damaged by the weight of the snow with leaves still turning colors, many of those leaves still green!  Be sure to have those branches cleanly pruned to help reduce future insect and disease damage.  Of course, remove as many downed branches as you can from your grass, leaving the lawn surface as clean as possible before winter truly arrives.  Completing these basic housekeeping items can give your landscape the edge it might need to survive an unpredictable winter.

 

Our Fall 2011 Newsletter – Hot Off the Press!

GreenWords Newsletter Fall 2011

In this issue: Restore Your Flood Damaged-Landscape & Great Reasons to Schedule Winter Work Now!

 

How to Restore Your Lawn In Irene’s Aftermath

For those with a home lawn in a flood plain or next to a waterway, removal of as much sediment and silt becomes job one.  Many will opt for a professional with equipment capable of moving large volumes of river sediment.  This is especially important to the homeowner as there is a high likelihood that the silt and sediment, being of the finest particle size, will trap and contain petroleum products, organic waste, or other undesirable materials.  Leaving the removal of such sediment to a professional can provide a measure of comfort to the home owner versus attempting such a daunting task themselves given the inherent risks.  After this “river frosting” is removed, the next phase is lawn restoration either this fall or next spring.

Freshly Reseeded Lawn and Hay Spreading

 

Damaged lawns will fall into two main categories ranging from a complete reinstallation with truck loads of loam down to basic turf treatments like core aeration, calcium lime, and fertilizer.  The more extensive the flooding and sediment layer, the more likely loam will need to be brought in, spread out with a tractor, seeded, and then rolled.  Any seeding this fall will pay dividends with quicker grass thickening versus having to wait for the soil to warm up and dry out next spring.

In many cases, a complete lawn renovation may well be the best choice compared to trying to patch up or fix thinned out or dead sections of lawn.  Attempting to match any existing grasses can leave a calico appearance to a lawn while starting over allows more desirable blends to be utilized yielding a more consistent turf cover. Before proceeding with a complete restoration it may also be the opportune time to decide how much lawn you really want in your planted landscape – do you love it and like the maintenance chores or do you really dream of creating other outdoor living spaces with patios, walkways, and gardens with native flowers, shrubs and trees? Only you can answer this question that Irene has raised….

The second type of lawn repair would be a partial renovation where perhaps the back or front was buried in silt yet or another area simply became either submerged in water or soaked by heavy rain.  Given the massive amount of rainfall during hurricane Irene, many soils, particularly sandy ones, will have lost significant nutrient value and will require supplemental treatment of Nitrogen and Potassium.  In this scenario, a normal lawn would do well to receive a balanced, low to zero phosphate, slow release fertilizer treatment to aid in improving turf health this autumn.

Any energy stored in October and November will be used to repair and establish a healthy root system prior to winter resulting in a better spring green up (see ‘winterizer’ blog post at mrgrassblog.net).  A high calcium lime treatment will aid in softening the soil itself while adjusting soil pH into a desirable range for the new and existing turf.  Core aeration is an excellent tool to reduce compacted soil, perhaps even those with some remaining sediment as a coating on the surface of the lawn.  These situations can be further improved by overseeding once the lawn is aerated with a superior blend of turf grass.

Most lawns can be seeded into late October and still have some germination prior to winter in a normal growing season.  Although you will not see a whole lot going on, taking the shot now is still normally worth the gamble of an early snow.  I have seen great lawns emerge in the spring from a late seeding and in the case of this catastrophe, I think the ‘doing’ outweighs the ‘waiting’ in most cases.

Although lawns may rate low on the scale of post-Irene reconstruction compared to bridges, roads, or house repairs, ultimately the job will arise and when it does, doing it right makes more sense than to not.

 

Lawn watering, from green to brown….

Published by Mr. Grass on June 21st, 2011 - in Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Turf

June is typically a transition month from cooler wet weather to warmer and drier weather in NH and VT. While you may enjoy the warmer weather, your lawn is composed of cool season grasses and disapproves of 80 or 90 degree days. Your grass is designed to flourish in 60 or 70 degree temperatures, but set the weather to broil and you will have consequences. For instance, even a healthy green lawn with plenty of water is still susceptible to leaf scorch – a condition similar to taking a vacation in Mexico in January. The lawn has succulent leaves, full of moisture, and they may not be fully prepared for hot weather. I have seen lawns turn from a vibrant green to patches of white or tan overnight! I can hear the phrase “what happened?” echo down the street from front porch to porch.

How can such a thing be prevented? You can mow regularly with a sharp blade to 3 inches, not too short as to cause stress. Don’t over fertilize either because too much of a good thing is never healthy. A lawn cranked up on the golden juice of high soluble fertilizers is predisposed to stress and what we in the business call the classic “crash.” This crash is a like watching a nice sports car hit a concrete wall – most unpleasant. A lawn that is racing in terms of growth can be dangerous, especially if that same lawn runs out of soil moisture and/or hits a period of 90 degree days. This type of weather can spell all kinds of trouble for what seemed bliss for you as a homeowner. You may see all kinds of white blotching as “hot spots,” as the sunniest areas tend to dry out first and turn a dull purple or off green.

Don’t confuse this type of situation with summer diseases which may also be present. Dollar spot, brown patch, and a hoard of numerous villains await a weak, dry lawn, or one that stays wet overnight due to late watering or humidity. Drought stress or sun scald can mimic diseases like dollar spot or patch diseases during the summer. If you are in doubt, have a professional look in order to determine what course of action may be required.

When it comes to watering, anything is better than nothing when it comes to your lawn turning from green, to dull purple, to light tan, to all out brown. Drought stress, combined with hot weather, can cause a lawn to crash and brown out in mere days if left unattended. Any irrigation is better than no irrigation in the sense that once your lawn goes brown, it takes weeks to start new growth and push out new green leaves. Brown grass leaves don’t just rehydrate and turn green for the most part – they are gone and need to be replaced. Early intervention by watering can either minimize or prevent massive browning if done correctly. Most turf wants 1” of rainfall per week to continue normal activities. If you can water in the morning, this is preferred to help minimize disease and evaporation in the day’s heat. Watering for a soaking is better than a light misting. In other words, a 1hr soak is better than 15 minutes a day, yet 15 minutes a day is better than no irrigation at all. Early watering will yield faster results and help the lawn stay green before things turn tan or brown. Watch for those hazing dull patches, those sections that don’t bounce back after you walk over them so you can still see your footprints. These are the priority areas that need water versus turf that is still a vibrant green.

 

 

Who’s Been Eating My Grass?

Published by Mr. Grass on April 20th, 2011 - in Landscaping, Turf

As the snow melts (eventually), you may find surface tunnels on your lawn. This can be a disturbing image and is most unpleasant. Voles, also known as field mice, will tunnel under the snow, eating the grass and shallow roots of your lawn. The result of this frozen dinner feast is a maze of tunnels created where the mice traveled. The extent of the damage can be minor such as leaves and thatch being eaten all the way to roots and shoots, a more severe result of mouse lawn damage.

Your best bet is to let the area recover in April and do some seeding in May once the soil warms up enough. Depending upon the extent and depth of the damage, you may not have to do anything, or as in this picture above, the soil is exposed, likely requiring some modest efforts to restore the grass to its original condition.

 

Finally, the Growing Degree Days Begin…

Yesterday, April 12, 2011, we finally had degree days! 6.6 per our Chippers weather station, and it was probably over 10 at lower elevations.

Growing degree days are used to predict the hatch/vulnerability of insects – in our case on woody plants. They are calculated by taking the high and low (in Fahrenheit) of each day, taking their average, and deducting 50. Negative numbers are thrown out, as happens all winter.

Insects that make an early appearance are White pine weevil (mostly a problem for spruce) and pear thrip (a problem for Sugar maples).

Today, April 13th, we had a GDD of 7.3 today. Some of what you will see up to GDD 50: Red maple, magnolia, some rhododendron, pieris and forsythia will all bloom. White pine weevil may be seen doing its dirty deeds at 60 degrees and above, and we are treating for these this week.

These insects are all vulnerable to dormant oil spray up until gdd 50: Scales, Aphids, Mealybugs, Psyllids, Aphids + Mites.

For more information on this topic, please visit our website, www.chippersinc.com.

An Insider’s View: 2011 Lawn Care Trends

The clock is ticking as companies prepare for the snow melt and the onset of the 2011 lawn care season.  In this blog post I shall briefly cover compost tea, kelp, fertilizer pricing, Mycorrhizae, and other trends worth exploring.

As petroleum prices rise, so does the cost of manufacturing basic fertilizer components.  Lawn care companies can expect to pay more for their fertilizer products in 2011, thus increasing the need to execute an effective and efficient turf program.  There has been one price increase already with perhaps another expected midyear.  Those companies unable to make sound business decisions may become a thing of the past.  Some price increases may inevitably be passed onto the consumer as pressure builds to make a profit in a highly competitive industry.

The bell continues to toll for fundamental changes utilizing basic soil and environmental processes in the lawn care industry to move further away from petroleum dependency. These options include inoculating seed with beneficial fungi called Mycorrhizae.  One inoculation allows this fungus to multiply and spread within a lawn area.  Long used in the tree industry, Mycorrhizae sets up a friendly relationship on the turf root system, breaking down surrounding nutrients and minerals.  The end result generally becomes a lessened demand on the quantity of fertilizer required due to this helpful relationship below ground.

There are still more options available beyond standard fertilizers such as compost tea and kelp both of which utilize actual plant material, minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and much more to help improve soil structure and thereby create a healthier lawn.  Compost tea usually contains beneficial bacteria, sugars, and kelp, all helping your grass become stronger while simultaneously improving the defensive mechanism to fight off insect and disease pressure.  Although there are lots of blends and types of compost tea, the general idea is to strengthen the lawn so it can withstand drought, insect, and disease pressure as it appears during the growing season.  Compost tea and kelp both help build the soil which is very often a large limiting factor in improving a lawn.  With many lawns containing high amounts of sand or minimal top soil, adding kelp and or compost tea becomes a very sound decision.

Both sea kelp and compost tea are not inexpensive, but they provide key materials not found in some fertilizers and they improve soil infrastructure.  Compare the investment in compost tea, kelp, or Mycorrhizae versus renovating your lawn and you are looking at saving thousands of dollars at a minimum.  Any lawn treatment that can help reduce fertilizer demand and build the soil is certainly worth exploring and perhaps even using in 2011.

Winter is the time to renew your Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Long and cold winter days and nights often have me daydreaming of once green lush lawns, gardens and trees.  And despite the recent blasts of cold and healthy snowfalls, now is time to think about and prepare for your 2011 Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Review your Turf and Plant Health Care proposals this winter

The weather plays a large role in the spring, relative to what and when certain treatments can be applied; and success or failure is linked to temperature and moisture levels.  High heat speeds up insect, weed, and disease development; and in some cases by days not weeks.  While this may not seem of great importance, temperature plays a huge role in advancing or retarding certain pathogens, ultimately affecting your landscape.  If you do not have a program “online” or ready to go, this tight window can easily be missed.  Cold weather can slow down the ability of your lawn to recover and green up fast.  The later the first application of fertilizer, compost tea, or lime is applied; the more your grass would be absent the time needed for improved color and recover from winter damage.

I have seen several years in April and May where the temperature rose into the high 70’s to lower 80’s.  This type of rapid spring warm-up can make some types of weed control applications harmful to turf without proper precautions.  The same precautions need to be taken when scheduling early plant health care spray applications.  If not prepared, you simply miss the window of opportunity for obtaining decent results relative to a variety of insect and disease issues.

Moisture content can also wreak havoc on turf and shrubs in the spring; especially if the spring is cold and rainy.  Such weather greatly advances snow molds and leaf spot on turf while creating apple scab on fruit trees.  Low moisture can reduce seed germination without proper irrigation.  Scheduling of overseeding or aeration during the winter insures completion at the proper time frame in the spring.  A great green care company will watch weather trends and activate services during the appropriate time frame.  You deserve and should demand this level of service.

Peace of mind is another reason to have your Turf or Plant Healthcare program set-up during the winter months.  You can relax and rest assured, knowing that your green care needs will be taken care of.  We will insure that all applications are timely and you will see the results.

The last fabulous reason to schedule your green care treatments during the winter includes financial incentives.  You may qualify for multiple incentives.  For example, if you prepay or return a signed contract before a certain deadline, you may qualify.  Look for these kinds of financial incentives; and look to see if you are partnering with an accredited, licensed, high quality and diversified ‘green care’ company.

Review your 2011 lawn contract before renewing

Published by Mr. Grass on November 23rd, 2010 - in Landscaping, Turf

Did your doctor ever advise you to get a second opinion? Or have you decided to get a second opinion when something just didn’t seem right? Keep that thought in mind while reading this post…
Hundreds of commercial lawn care contracts will be mailed out shortly to residential homes in VT and NH. Even more lawn contracts will be mailed out to commercial customers in the hopes that decision makers like you will just sign, mail, or simply fax it back with no questions asked. I propose that each contract deserves not only a second opinion, but a thorough examination line by line. Let me explain…
Most lawns are not being examined to determine its true treatment needs. Contracts for lawn accounts are being auto-renewed from prior year information like a CD player on repeat. While this automated process may lock you in and generate revenue for national and larger regional lawn care companies, I sincerely doubt you are receiving a turf care program worthy of your hard earned dollars. That is why I recommend that you schedule a complimentary turf & soil evaluation. But, I have more reasons…
Many lawns treated by the competition utilize heavy machines called Perma-greens, Turf-Trackers, or tractors. These machines do an adequate job on large properties or fields but are very heavy and are not ideally suited for your lawn. An operator can inadvertently cause damage while running the machine over frost covered lawns, shaded locations, and the sloped areas of your lawn. Turf can be easily compacted, torn, and ripped up without careful attention from the operator. If these facts don’t cause you to raise an eyebrow, please read on…
Does your treatment price seem great? The low price simply cannot be beat you say! Did you get a free lime treatment? Hmmm…did you really get a free lime treatment? If you get a free or reduced lime, you may receive it combined with a fertilizer treatment with a reduced amount of pelletized lime mixed into one application. The bottom line here is that you get what you pay for. If the price is lower, you are getting less product and/ or time treating your lawn. Are you ready for that free consultation yet? I have more…
Customer Service! Simply put, the large national chains do not provide adequate customer service. It is often outsourced to inexperienced customer service call centers. When you call, does your phone call get forwarded to a call center or does a local person answer your call? Are you able to reach the manager if you have a concern? Do they call you back promptly? Are you supporting your local economy or contributing to a national organization’s bottom line?
Before you sign on the dotted line this year, and before you pre-pay for your entire year upfront…get a second opinion from a local lawn care company. We welcome your questions and the opportunity to make your lawn healthy, green, and beautiful! So, give us a call to schedule a complimentary turf & soil evaluation. You will see and feel the difference…
If you are not in our service area, I have qualified companies I can recommend to you. Just leave a comment and I will get back to you.

Competition vs Chippers (green lawn is treated by Chippers)

Raking Your Lawn Is More Important Than You Know

Published by Mr. Grass on October 11th, 2010 - in Turf

As the autumn air cools into piles of colored leaves, your lawn beckons attention before the snow covers it with a blanket of white. Some lawn projects can be simple like raking on a regular basis or mowing with a vacuum bag style tractor system. Raking, or specifically a lack of leaves, allows your lawn to capture more sunlight as the deciduous trees lose their green canopy. Increased sunlight can really help shaded and weak areas capture additional energy to help prepare for the winter. In some cases, this vital time period could be a month or more of growing before slowing to the point of near dormancy with the onset of freezing weather. Any leaves left on the lawn can cause a mulching action by inhibiting sunlight from reaching the leaf blades below.

Don’t allow piles of leaves to sit for weeks on end, or the grass underneath will suffer potentially damaging consequences. Keeping your lawn clean in the fall can really improve the chances of winter survival and minimize damage. Turf that is left covered with leaves or pine needles face a lack of air, light, and often succumbs to ice damage. As simple as raking or leaf removal is, it is very important to all lawns to approach winter clear as opposed to buried out of sight under leaf litter.
Autumn is also a great time harden your lawn off for winter. A wonderful mowing height during the growing season is 3″ as a standard. Your mowing height should be lowered as October fades into November. Drop your mowing deck a half-inch a week starting in mid to late October with the final cut in November being between 1 to 1.5 inches in height. The slow drop in mowing height helps harden your lawn off and slows growth in addition to falling temperatures.

Many folks put their mowers away much too early in October when the lawn continues to grow well into November in many years sometimes to the Thanksgiving holiday break in NH or VT. Some of the most simple cultural practices like mowing and raking can make or break some lawns. The preventative care in raking and mowing can yield big dividends over a harsh winter- aiding in survival and spring recovery. Turf that goes into the winter long – and by that I mean a normal height of 3″ or more – will be predisposed to snow mold and ice damage, even more so with leaf or needle debris.

Plan ahead now and rest easy this winter knowing you did all you could to help your lawn make it into a new year!

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