Posts Tagged ‘hanover’

Eastern Redbud – Cercis canadensis

Published by Mrs. Flower on December 19th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the first segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series……

What better time than now, during the first days of winter, to be thinking about the early flowering trees of spring? Eastern redbud is perhaps my favorite blooming tree. It is certainly one of the finest native flowering trees. What I like about this tree is not only that it is one of the earliest blooming, but in the way that the profuse pinkish purple blooms seem to explode right out of the pores of the bark! There are white blooming varieties as well.

Upon inspection of the bark, on the branches and trunk, it is smooth with tiny bumps. Then quickly the knurls fatten and unfurl into a multi-stemmed bunch of 4-8 tiny flowers covering a leafless tree. Completely gorgeous.  It flowers on old wood. The flowers are bisexual and the tree is self-pollinating.

The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects. The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects.  Hence it becomes a busy little community of life. The seeds look like pea pods and this is because the genus comes from the legume family – Fabaceae. They form over the course of the summer and are attractive to seed eating birds – Cardinals being my favorites. The seed can be germinated after scarification with sulfuric acid for about a half hour and then given 6 – 8 weeks of cold treatment. The seed does have an internal dormancy, but most will germinate with proper care.

As if the 2-3 week flowering period is not enough, the young leaves appear as small cranberry colored hearts that grow to a large 4” blue green cordate leaf.  The leaves turn an exceptional golden yellow in the fall. This little tree can be used in a garden setting and it is possible to utilize it as a shrub with selective pruning. The redbud is not especially vulnerable to pests and diseases. This is a versatile genus that is easy to grow and take care of.

The cercis is a medium textured, short-lived deciduous tree found throughout the eastern United States. It is tolerant of most soil types, except refuses to be happy in constantly wet soils. It has a deep taproot and is aggressive in establishment in full sun to part shade. The average height is 15-20′ and the spread is 18-25′. It has a lovely horizontal branching, rotund form.  The growth rate is medium, which makes it perfect for the garden, as it will not quickly take over. Most rapid growth occurs in youth, in the first 5–6 years, when it can grow 6–10’, then growth is slow. The Eastern Redbud is a native tree that is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Be careful not to acquire a tree that has come from seed stock grown in the south as, most likely, it will not be hardy to far north conditions.

I have a variety called  ‘Forest Pansy’ in my garden that is hardy to zone 5. While I am in zone 4, I have enjoyed this little tree for five years.I always lose the branches every winter and I cut them back, fearing that this might be the end, but the tree keeps flushing forth with BIG dark purple hearts which turn various shades of apricot in the fall.

Visitors always ask what it is. It has never, and may never bloom because I have to keep pruning the winter kill – but I love this tree so much. Even if it does expire, I will surely replace it with another.

I am dying to try a new cultivar ‘Rising Sun’ which has golden tangerine heart -shaped foliage summer through fall; new leaves are bright rosy apricot. It grows to a height of 12’, which would be perfect as a garden framework maker. It is hardy to zone 5, but I do enjoy pushing my limits!

 

 

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Ice Melt: You Really Do Get What You Pay For….

Published by Mr. Grass on November 23rd, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

Rock salt is the cheapest and most basic of ice melting materials but it has many drawbacks for the price.  Everyone knows the damage rock salt does to turf, tree & shrubs, concrete, brick, patios, steel and so many more materials.  Rock salt is the cheapest ice melt but generally functions in the upper teens to lower 20’s F.  Rock salt will do plenty of damage to concrete, patios, grass, trees, and shrubs when exposed to the briny solution as it soaks into the soil.  Once spring arrives the moist, salty soil actually creates a drought condition around root systems resulting from the use of rock salt.  Although rock salt is a cheap ice melting product, the replacement damage of beloved tree and shrubs far outweigh its regular use.  Surprisingly enough, many folks still buy rock salt by the ton due to its “perceived” value as it relates to the price per bag.  For a few dollars more, many other ice melting products are available with much less impact to the environment and landscaping materials such as brick, slate, and concrete.

Calcium chloride is a serious ice melting product that works at extreme low temperatures (-25 f), only found in New England on rare occasions.  Unfortunately, calcium chloride is a very harsh chemical that requires the use of protective equipment such as gloves to protect against burning exposed skin.  Calcium chloride is also very expensive, which brings into question why it would be used over other available products.  Storage is important because unless the bags are sealed and kept dry, calcium chloride “melts” into itself by absorbing moisture in the air- thereby coming unusable. Calcium chloride will corrode steel so makes it a poor choice for use on concrete sidewalks.  Most calcium chloride pellets are round and therefore roll on inclines unlike crystalline ice melters.  While other ice melts can provide physical traction after use, the round pellets of calcium chloride cannot provide any such benefit.  Calcium chloride is labeled on the bag as a severe irritant to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.

There are many environmentally friendly ice melting materials on the market.  Unfortunately, because ice melts are not regulated by the Federal government, an associated MSDS sheet can be most vague without exhaustive research.  After much research ourselves, we have decided to offer Natural Ice Melt as an alternative to the aforementioned products.  Performance must be balanced with cost and benefits depending upon the planned use such as on a driveway, near a valuable landscape or around pets.  So the next time you are staring at a pallet of ice melt at the Home Depot, maybe you will think twice before reaching for the lowest price bag because… are you really saving any money? If you have more questions about ice melt, please contact turf@chippersinc.com.

 

 

 

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The Deep Sleep is Looming

Published by Mrs. Flower on November 14th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

The processes of plant dormancy begin with triggers that indicate the growing season is nearing end and that winter is approaching. Obvious signs would be the shortening of daylight hours, reduced water, reduced food resources and cooler temperatures. Plants are capable of being fooled out of the process of senescence. Many gardeners have seen perennials, shrubs and trees suddenly show what appears to be spring growth. This often happens if plants that are supposed to be getting ready for dormancy are given fertilizer late in the season, or if there is unusual extended warmth and rain. This is why it is best not to fertilize late in the season, or during autumn planting and transplanting.

It is possible to make a plant that is seasonal stay awake for up to two seasons. Using a Japanese maple as an example; one could bring it indoors and keep it “awake” for a two-season period. But most likely, soon enough, it will die because this type of extreme treatment will exhaust the plants’ stores. This is why it is not a great idea to try to grow anything other than tropical as houseplants.

When the season end “triggers” mount up, signaling end game, processes like pulling the last remaining nutrients from the leaves and transporting them down into crowns and or, roots for winter storage are happening. Plant cells start to reduce the amount of water contained within the cell walls. This small amount of remaining liquid is sugar-laden and acts as a sort of plant antifreeze. This sugary liquid will not expand with freezing temps and explode the plant cells, which causes cell death.

Some plants actually have a capability of having a dormancy set point. These plants require a specific number of hours of dormancy before they awaken for the season. This works well for those times when spring comes suddenly and for a short spell. Gardeners worry when they see spring growth way before the last frosts have finished, and this seems to be happening more these days. But have faith that plants do know when winter is gone. And even if there is an extremely early flush of green life that gets nipped, most of the stored energy is still in the wood and roots and all will be well. Green has always prevailed and it always will.

 

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Overcome Those Matted Leaves Despite Snowtober!

Published by Mr. Grass on November 3rd, 2011 - in Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

Most folks got at least a few inches of snow this past weekend during a record setting October snow storm.  The impact on your lawn can be summed up in a few basic scenarios with the first involving moderate to substantial leaf litter on the ground, now snow-covered.  Left uncollected, these piles of leaves can be trouble for your lawn as colder weather approaches with snow that will not melt until spring.  As soon as you can remove leaf piles and other debris brought down by the heavy, wet snow you should plan on doing so to prevent smothering areas of your lawn.  The thicker the leaf pile, the better it will mulch your grass leaving dead spots and bare areas next year.

If you have your driveway plowed, now is a great time to put up stakes marking the edge of the lawn indicating the transition from gravel or pavement to grass.  Snow plow damage becomes visible in the spring time as snow recedes, exposing chunks of sod and grass tossed aside to dry out and die.  Without help, snow plow operators can have difficulty determining where your driveway ends and the lawn begins.  Such an error is commonplace during late night snow storms and can result in significant lawn damage.  Using posts, stakes, or sticks can provide a simple, yet effective signal and minimize or prevent the edge of your lawn from being “relocated.”

Even though it is now November, if you got caught with your lawn still needing another cut- say over 3” in height- don’t feel odd pulling out your mower for one last farewell mowing.  Many folks can remove leaves and mow simultaneously so this is a great opportunity to “get two birds with one stone” as the saying goes.  A clean, short cut in November is one way you can say ‘I love you’ to your lawn before the onset of winter.

Many tree limbs were damaged by the weight of the snow with leaves still turning colors, many of those leaves still green!  Be sure to have those branches cleanly pruned to help reduce future insect and disease damage.  Of course, remove as many downed branches as you can from your grass, leaving the lawn surface as clean as possible before winter truly arrives.  Completing these basic housekeeping items can give your landscape the edge it might need to survive an unpredictable winter.

 

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Our Fall 2011 Newsletter – Hot Off the Press!

Published by Mrs. Chippers on October 19th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Land Enhancement, Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

GreenWords Newsletter Fall 2011

In this issue: Restore Your Flood Damaged-Landscape & Great Reasons to Schedule Winter Work Now!

 

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Book Winter Work Now for Savings & to Aid Flood Relief Efforts!

Published by Mrs. Chippers on September 28th, 2011 - in Arborist, Land Enhancement, Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees

OK so we’re definitely not ready yet – the leaves have just barely begun to turn in our service areas – but we know it’s coming…. Winter. Love it or not, want it or not, it’s coming, and we all know it.

This year we are trying to plan our winter work schedule way ahead, and we want to encourage you to do the same by offering you an incentive. Schedule your snow season job before December 1, 2011 for 10% discount on work performed January 1 to March 31, 2012, and we will also donate $50 per Crew Day to the Irene flood relief efforts via either the VT or NH Foodbank, based on where you live.

Accounts that are prepaid for winter work by December 1, 2011 will have a 15% total discount applied.

A Crew Day will be determined on a per project basis by your representative, based on crew needs to perform the desired work. This price reduction does not apply to snow removal services. 

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How to Restore Your Lawn In Irene’s Aftermath

Published by Mr. Grass on September 23rd, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Storm Damage Assistance, Turf

For those with a home lawn in a flood plain or next to a waterway, removal of as much sediment and silt becomes job one.  Many will opt for a professional with equipment capable of moving large volumes of river sediment.  This is especially important to the homeowner as there is a high likelihood that the silt and sediment, being of the finest particle size, will trap and contain petroleum products, organic waste, or other undesirable materials.  Leaving the removal of such sediment to a professional can provide a measure of comfort to the home owner versus attempting such a daunting task themselves given the inherent risks.  After this “river frosting” is removed, the next phase is lawn restoration either this fall or next spring.

Freshly Reseeded Lawn and Hay Spreading

 

Damaged lawns will fall into two main categories ranging from a complete reinstallation with truck loads of loam down to basic turf treatments like core aeration, calcium lime, and fertilizer.  The more extensive the flooding and sediment layer, the more likely loam will need to be brought in, spread out with a tractor, seeded, and then rolled.  Any seeding this fall will pay dividends with quicker grass thickening versus having to wait for the soil to warm up and dry out next spring.

In many cases, a complete lawn renovation may well be the best choice compared to trying to patch up or fix thinned out or dead sections of lawn.  Attempting to match any existing grasses can leave a calico appearance to a lawn while starting over allows more desirable blends to be utilized yielding a more consistent turf cover. Before proceeding with a complete restoration it may also be the opportune time to decide how much lawn you really want in your planted landscape – do you love it and like the maintenance chores or do you really dream of creating other outdoor living spaces with patios, walkways, and gardens with native flowers, shrubs and trees? Only you can answer this question that Irene has raised….

The second type of lawn repair would be a partial renovation where perhaps the back or front was buried in silt yet or another area simply became either submerged in water or soaked by heavy rain.  Given the massive amount of rainfall during hurricane Irene, many soils, particularly sandy ones, will have lost significant nutrient value and will require supplemental treatment of Nitrogen and Potassium.  In this scenario, a normal lawn would do well to receive a balanced, low to zero phosphate, slow release fertilizer treatment to aid in improving turf health this autumn.

Any energy stored in October and November will be used to repair and establish a healthy root system prior to winter resulting in a better spring green up (see ‘winterizer’ blog post at mrgrassblog.net).  A high calcium lime treatment will aid in softening the soil itself while adjusting soil pH into a desirable range for the new and existing turf.  Core aeration is an excellent tool to reduce compacted soil, perhaps even those with some remaining sediment as a coating on the surface of the lawn.  These situations can be further improved by overseeding once the lawn is aerated with a superior blend of turf grass.

Most lawns can be seeded into late October and still have some germination prior to winter in a normal growing season.  Although you will not see a whole lot going on, taking the shot now is still normally worth the gamble of an early snow.  I have seen great lawns emerge in the spring from a late seeding and in the case of this catastrophe, I think the ‘doing’ outweighs the ‘waiting’ in most cases.

Although lawns may rate low on the scale of post-Irene reconstruction compared to bridges, roads, or house repairs, ultimately the job will arise and when it does, doing it right makes more sense than to not.

 

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Prevent Lawn Despair During Our Dog Days of Summer

Published by Mr. Grass on July 19th, 2011 - in Landscaping, Turf

Midsummer weather can put even a great looking lawn into a slow dive of despondency without careful attention. As the heat kicks into high gear, soil temperatures reach their smoking point and crabgrass seeds begin germinating in earnest, popping like corn in a microwave. Limey green crabgrass plants appear virtually overnight exposing vulnerable areas along driveways, patios, walkways, mailboxes among others. Where did they come from? How can they grow so fast? Ah, the games have just begun!

 

If you have not watered and your lawn is cut short, now is when your thin lawn becomes choked out with crabgrass plants the size of small cars. During hot, humid weather, cool season grasses will stop growing, sitting idle while crabgrass seemingly grows an inch an hour, basking in the searing July heat. A weak or thin lawn, or those lacking a pre-emergent crabgrass barrier, are now at high risk for a crabgrass invasion that will only cease when school reopens. While post-emergent sprays do exist, spraying at this stage is like using a garden hose on a house fire: it’s best just to let nature take its course. Measures should be taken in the fall such as aeration, overseeding, lime, and turf thickening fertilizers to help prepare the lawn for the following spring. A healthy lawn resists this invasion, and although areas may see some crabgrass, it will not be to the point where one could harvest the greenery for salads.

A casual glance toward the interior of your lawn may reveal disturbing patches and blotches of varying sizes and colors ranging from brown to white. How can this be? What went wrong? Like a good CSI episode, it is time for the facts to speak and rule out the guessing. These issues generally fall under environmental stress such as heat, sun scald, or some other non-pathogenic source. Ruling out diseases can be very tricky depending upon the weather, timing, and location of injury. This summer has seen a significant upswing in disease-related damage ranging from pits and scars, to unusual patches. Preventative measures can be taken to help clean up your lawn with either traditional or organic treatments. Insects are perhaps the easiest to detect given their predicable nature and timing during the season. Now is a perfect time to treat for grubs, sod webworm, and chinch bugs using either organic or traditional materials.

Doing some simple things properly for your lawn during the next six weeks can reduce unsettling issues arising from disease, insects, and environmental stress. Summer is generally not the best time to spray for difficult to control broadleaf weeds like ground ivy and violets since high heat and low soil moisture content reduce product effectiveness. If you think you have an invasion at your house, get it checked out and maybe there is a solution to either stop the problem or slow the damage. Plan ahead and keep your turf clean and green!

 

 

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Look for Invasive Insects In Your Swimming Pool

Published by Mr. Tree on June 28th, 2011 - in Arborist, Firewood, Green Care Industry Issues, Plant Health Care, Trees

The following article is courtesy of the NH Cooperative Extension.

Dear Friends of Trees and Enemies of Asian Longhorned Beetles,

 

The Asian longhorned beetle (ALB) is a serious threat to our forests and trees. As far as we know it isn’t in New Hampshire, yet. We need many people looking for it so we can take steps to limit its spread, if it arrives. ALB was found in trees in Worcester MA in 2008, but experts estimate it was in the trees for about 10 years before they identified the problem. Some Worcester homeowners subsequently reported they collected ALB in their swimming pools for years prior to the 2008 identification.

 

Because there isn’t a reliable trap for ALB and using the Worcester-experience, we are looking for ALB in swimming pools. Last summer, we tested this approach with 34 public pools. Thankfully, we didn’t find ALB, but we found many longhorned-type beetles, so we know this survey method works. If ALB is New Hampshire, we think we will find them in swimming pools.

 

Help us by looking at the debris from your swimming pools. In addition to a swimming pool, you need:

 

• A digital camera

• An email address that you actively use

• Enough computer skills to follow instructions to upload pictures to this website: http://extension.unh.edu/FWT/ALBpool.htm

 

 

Here is an overview of the project:

 

Step 1: Sign up to participate NOW by sending us your name, physical street address and town, and email address to: foresthealth@dred.state.nh.us .

 

Step 2: From July 11-August 26. At least once a week¬or whenever you clean your pool¬look at the debris you collect in your filter and skimmers. Look for longhorned beetles.

 

Step 3: Use a fact sheet (posted at http://extension.unh.edu/FWT/ALBpool.htm) to compare collected insects to common insects.

 

Step 4: Take a picture of any insect you think is a longhorned beetle. We need a good view of the insect’s back.

 

Step 5: Once a week send a picture of the insect that most looks like a longhorned beetle. We need to hear from you every week.

 

Step 6: Send the picture through this website http://extension.unh.edu/FWT/ALBpool.htm

 

Step 7: If you send us a picture, freeze the insect in a tupperware-like container until you hear from us (about a week). We will either tell you to throw the insect out or give you instructions about mailing it, delivering it or arranging for pick-up.

 

Then What?

We will post interesting pictures and sightings to the web and send you a weekly email reminder and report.

 

Questions about the project?

foresthealth@dred.state.nh.us or call Kyle Lombard at the Forest Health Office 464-3016

 

Questions about the project and the website?

karen.bennett@unh.edu or call Karen Bennett at UNH Cooperative Extension at 862-4861

 

Thank you for your interest and your help.

 

 

Kyle Lombard Karen Bennett

Forest Health Program UNH Cooperative Extension

Karen P. Bennett, Extension Forestry Professor & Specialist

UNH Cooperative Extension

212 Nesmith Hall, 131 Main St.

Durham, NH 03824

(603)862-4861, (603)312-6695 cell, (603)862-0107 fax

karen.bennett@unh.edu

www.nhwoods.org

 

 

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Hummingbirds Are Back In Town….

Published by Mrs. Flower on May 17th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

I’m a complete nut for ruby throated hummingbirds. They are fleeting tiny jewels that bring utter delight to the viewer. I could spend hours watching them. Surely, it would be a cliché to say that they are my favorite bird. That aside, I know I am in good company to say that I anxiously awaited their arrival this spring. The return of the hummingbirds means rebirth and utter joy to me. They make me happy. Even though they only live 3 or 4 years, my hummingbirds are the same genetic family that I have known since I have lived in my house. Studies have shown that these tiny birds return to the place from where they hatched. We have a “heart thing” going on (fact: a hummingbird heart beat 21 times per second). Last year, a mother hummingbird lined all of her chicks out on a line right over my head for me to admire. I leaned back in my chair and just watched them – agog with wonder. They were the size of my baby finger, and they pushed and pecked at each other, as children will.

Ruby throated hummingbirds spend their winters in southern Mexico and northern Panama. Most make the arduous journey across the Gulf of Mexico to make it back to their summer feeding ranges. This over water trip is 500 miles long, and can take 18-22 hours. Sometimes they travel with other larger birds, but do not, as lore tells, travel in the armpits of geese. Hummingbirds have too much dignity for such travel accommodation, and I suspect their accumulated frequent travel miles suffice.

This mild season that we have had has brought hummingbirds sooner than usual this year. They arrived a full week earlier than last year. And when they got here, I was ready! My favorite hummingbird migration site on the internet is www.hummingbirds.net. I saw that someone sighted them on April 4th in the Boston area. My old records show them arriving the first week of May, or thereabouts. But as years have gone by, they have been arriving earlier and earlier. The males arrive a couple of weeks ahead of the females and will search for a summer residence. Most people don’t know that hummingbirds eat soft-bodied bugs like flies and mosquitoes, as well as sap from certain trees, and flower nectar. Since there are not many nectariferous flowers or bugs available, this early in the season, feeders will help them establish their territory.

Hummingbirds are protein eating machines and the nectar is the fuel they use to power their enterprise. They do like a little rest as they sip, so I like to use the feeders that have perches. I also prefer the feeders that are easy to clean. The ones I use look like flying saucers. They have shallow, easy to clean bowls, with a wide flat screw-on red top, complete with perches and holes. Red coloring on the feeder itself will help to attract them initially. Later in the season, the nectar can get moldy, due to the bacteria that is introduced from the bird’s beaks. The bothersome skinny necked bottle feeders make clean-up a difficult chore.

Hummingbirds do not need the red colored hummingbird powder bought from stores, which is mixed with water and poured into the feeders. A 1 to 4 mixture of table sugar (cane or beet sugar) to water is perfect. I usually mix 1/2 cup sugar to 2 cups of water to fill a couple of feeders at a time. The hummingbird does not need red food dye to attract it to feeders. Some people think that feeding with sugar water is ‘unnatural’ but the 21% sucrose content is consistent with natural flower nectar.

My gardens are filled with plants that attract nectar feeders (I love butterflies also).

Plants to Attract and Feed Hummingbirds

Trees and Shrubs

• Azalea

• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

• Flowering Quince

• Lantana

• Red Buckeye

• Weigela

Vines

• Morning Glory

• Scarlet Runner Bean

• Trumpet Creeper

Perennials

• Agastache

• Bee Balm

• Cardinal Flower

• Columbine

• Coral Bells

• Foxglove

• Hosta

• Hummingbird Mint

• Lupine

• Penstemon

• Yucca

Annuals

• Fuchsia

• Impatiens

• Petunia

• Various Salvia species

Last year I rescued a few from barns and sheds. They thanked me, as I was weeding in the flower beds, by hovering within a foot of my face, welcoming me to the garden. I have rescued perhaps 12 hummingbirds in my life. The first one was trapped in an interior window of a shed. It was frantic. I got real close and held my hand near it as it fluttered up and down the window pane…patience…patience. It got exhausted very quickly, and when it came to rest, I quickly – but ever so gently, pinned its wings at its shoulders between my thumb and index finger. As I held this tiny bird I could see the little wrinkled folds of its eyelids, and every iridescent pin sized feather shone in the light…amazing. Ever since then, I have considered myself somewhat of a specialist in hummingbird rescue. I have imagined having a business doing nothing but answering the call of hummingbird rescue. This would the sweetest of jobs in my estimation.

I am very exacting, as it would be easy to injure their wings if they try to take flight. Their wings can flutter up to 50 odd beats per second in flight. I suppose I should be reported, for this is an offense, as it is against the law (Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918.) I think this law was made to keep people from collecting birds to stick on their hats, or for whatever other purposes people touch birds. But if the bird police show up, and I must do the time for this extreme action, then I will gladly suffer the prison food. I cannot, under any circumstances, just stand back and watch them expire if I can be of help. The pleasure that I derive from hummingbirds is certainly one of my greatest joys in life, and administering to their needs is a chief ambition.

 

 

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