Posts Tagged ‘Landscape’

Eastern Leatherwood – Dirca palustris

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 27th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Trees

This is the third segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Here is a darling understory shrub with a height of 3 – 6’ and equal width. When I first noticed this plant in the dappled light of my woodland, I was love struck. This is a native plant that is found in the eastern half of North America. The multi branched broad shrub is covered with light green 3” oval shaped leaves. This is a very well behaved shrub. In the shade the plant seems to be reaching for the sun and is thinner than the specimens located in full sun, which tend to be full rounded shrubs. I like to hike along the southeast base of Mt. Hoar on the edge of Lake Willoughby, Vermont, the understory is dense with Leatherwood. I am amazed at the width of the leaves, which seem much larger than the standard.

You cannot go wrong with a plant that is good in both sun and shade. It does enjoy moist soil, hence the species “palustris” which means “of the swamps”.  The texture is of medium quality and it is slow growing. This makes a fine plant for the landscape, although it is very difficult to find in cultivation. This makes me covetous. Fall brings forth a fine clear yellow in the leaf, with best color in partial shade conditions.

Leatherwood has no enemies to speak of.  Even deer won’t browse it (it is thought to possibly have diuretic qualities). Studies recently done show that extracts from the seeds contain linoleic and oleic acid which have insecticidal qualities for specific insects.

The bark has a leathery feel. It is not easy to snap off a branch. This quality made it useful for Native Americans to make baskets, bowstrings and fish lines. In very early spring, the shrub bursts forth with lovely perfect 4” butter yellow flowers. Each flower produces one seed. The large green seeds form and drop quickly, literally within a week all seeds will drop from the plant. The seeds need to be collected and sown fresh in late spring for sprouting the following spring. Layering works as a method, but proves difficult as one would have to work in the woodland laboratory where anything can happen. Propagation from cuttings is very difficult, which of course baits me – making it a must try!

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American Hornbeam – Carpinus caroliniana

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 7th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the second segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Who wouldn’t like a tree with the moniker “muscle wood”? Also commonly called “blue beech” or “ironwood”, the American Hornbeam is a medium-sized native hardwood tree that, on average, reaches 20 to 30 feet in height and width. Ironwood has a range from Nova Scotia through most of the eastern seaboard of the US, to include the topmost section of Florida, and westward to roughly the middle of the central time zone. It is hardy in zones 3 – 9.

The young bark is smooth and the subtly twisted trunk looks rather sinewy. As it ages the bark becomes fissured and fluted. The form can range from a multistemmed shrub to a single stemmed tree. The growth rate is slow – about a foot per year. Enjoying moisture places it along brooks predominately in the wild. This is a tree for the understory! It is tolerant of deep shade, but also will perform in full sun with a good deep acid soil and promise of adequate fertilizer and moisture. It is also a fine tree for naturalizing.

The leaves resemble that of beech. It is a simple leaf 3 – 4” long with sharp teeth. Fall color is exceptional, displaying red, maroon, orange and gold. The tree exhibits both male and female flowers that are lovely in display, and the resulting fruits are numerous nutlets prized by birds.

Carpinius caroliniana is one of my most favorite trees, even though I know I tend to say this many times about many trees. But, this understory specimen amid taller limbed up trees is a true delight in the fall that will yield wildlife activity further along in the season. I have seen an absolutely sublime alley made of American Hornbeam – the medium texture was kind on the eye and the fall display was robust.

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Eastern Redbud – Cercis canadensis

Published by Mrs. Flower on December 19th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the first segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series……

What better time than now, during the first days of winter, to be thinking about the early flowering trees of spring? Eastern redbud is perhaps my favorite blooming tree. It is certainly one of the finest native flowering trees. What I like about this tree is not only that it is one of the earliest blooming, but in the way that the profuse pinkish purple blooms seem to explode right out of the pores of the bark! There are white blooming varieties as well.

Upon inspection of the bark, on the branches and trunk, it is smooth with tiny bumps. Then quickly the knurls fatten and unfurl into a multi-stemmed bunch of 4-8 tiny flowers covering a leafless tree. Completely gorgeous.  It flowers on old wood. The flowers are bisexual and the tree is self-pollinating.

The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects. The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects.  Hence it becomes a busy little community of life. The seeds look like pea pods and this is because the genus comes from the legume family – Fabaceae. They form over the course of the summer and are attractive to seed eating birds – Cardinals being my favorites. The seed can be germinated after scarification with sulfuric acid for about a half hour and then given 6 – 8 weeks of cold treatment. The seed does have an internal dormancy, but most will germinate with proper care.

As if the 2-3 week flowering period is not enough, the young leaves appear as small cranberry colored hearts that grow to a large 4” blue green cordate leaf.  The leaves turn an exceptional golden yellow in the fall. This little tree can be used in a garden setting and it is possible to utilize it as a shrub with selective pruning. The redbud is not especially vulnerable to pests and diseases. This is a versatile genus that is easy to grow and take care of.

The cercis is a medium textured, short-lived deciduous tree found throughout the eastern United States. It is tolerant of most soil types, except refuses to be happy in constantly wet soils. It has a deep taproot and is aggressive in establishment in full sun to part shade. The average height is 15-20′ and the spread is 18-25′. It has a lovely horizontal branching, rotund form.  The growth rate is medium, which makes it perfect for the garden, as it will not quickly take over. Most rapid growth occurs in youth, in the first 5–6 years, when it can grow 6–10’, then growth is slow. The Eastern Redbud is a native tree that is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Be careful not to acquire a tree that has come from seed stock grown in the south as, most likely, it will not be hardy to far north conditions.

I have a variety called  ‘Forest Pansy’ in my garden that is hardy to zone 5. While I am in zone 4, I have enjoyed this little tree for five years.I always lose the branches every winter and I cut them back, fearing that this might be the end, but the tree keeps flushing forth with BIG dark purple hearts which turn various shades of apricot in the fall.

Visitors always ask what it is. It has never, and may never bloom because I have to keep pruning the winter kill – but I love this tree so much. Even if it does expire, I will surely replace it with another.

I am dying to try a new cultivar ‘Rising Sun’ which has golden tangerine heart -shaped foliage summer through fall; new leaves are bright rosy apricot. It grows to a height of 12’, which would be perfect as a garden framework maker. It is hardy to zone 5, but I do enjoy pushing my limits!

 

 

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It’s Not Too Late to Plant!

Published by Mrs. Flower on October 24th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Trees

Autumn is the best time to plant perennials, trees and shrubs. They can still be planted in the ground even if there is a thin crust of frost in the soil. Fall is the best time to plant because nature offers the perfect environment of cool temperatures and abundant water. Plant materials are still working to establish themselves in the late fall and very early spring and usually require little help from humans. Most trees and shrubs in late fall have fulfilled their annual growth and are shutting down for the winter. It can only benefit any plant to be set free of its pot and placed in soil. In late fall and early spring the growth of new roots happens underground before we even see any life above the soil.

Perennials can be set into the ground with great success at this time. Mulching to a depth of 2 – 3 inches will reduce root ball throw. The processes of freezing and thawing will push un-rooted root balls up and out of the soil.  This is easily resolved by visiting newly planted perennials in very early spring and pressing them back down into their holes gently but firmly with your toes. The root balls make contact with the soil again and they proceed to root out into it.

There will be some failures of course. But for the most part there is success in fall garden plantings. Some perennials are finicky and require a full summer of growth in place before they can endure a winter. Tricky plants are wonders that we gardeners all enjoy figuring out along the way. For some reason there can be more time for gardening in the fall than there is in the spring. For some, a new home only begins to settle in the fall and gardening becomes a new delight. It is not too late!

It is best not to put any soil additives in the hole or on top of the soil when planting in the fall. The plants are going to sleep and need no food. Water is still important however and keeping new plantings watered well – even in the fall – is key to success. When spring comes, keep an eye to the newly planted materials for signs of dehydration and make sure that they receive adequate water.

For more information contact gardens@chippersinc.com.

 

 

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Our Fall 2011 Newsletter – Hot Off the Press!

Published by Mrs. Chippers on October 19th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Land Enhancement, Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

GreenWords Newsletter Fall 2011

In this issue: Restore Your Flood Damaged-Landscape & Great Reasons to Schedule Winter Work Now!

 

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Book Winter Work Now for Savings & to Aid Flood Relief Efforts!

Published by Mrs. Chippers on September 28th, 2011 - in Arborist, Land Enhancement, Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees

OK so we’re definitely not ready yet – the leaves have just barely begun to turn in our service areas – but we know it’s coming…. Winter. Love it or not, want it or not, it’s coming, and we all know it.

This year we are trying to plan our winter work schedule way ahead, and we want to encourage you to do the same by offering you an incentive. Schedule your snow season job before December 1, 2011 for 10% discount on work performed January 1 to March 31, 2012, and we will also donate $50 per Crew Day to the Irene flood relief efforts via either the VT or NH Foodbank, based on where you live.

Accounts that are prepaid for winter work by December 1, 2011 will have a 15% total discount applied.

A Crew Day will be determined on a per project basis by your representative, based on crew needs to perform the desired work. This price reduction does not apply to snow removal services. 

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Prevent Lawn Despair During Our Dog Days of Summer

Published by Mr. Grass on July 19th, 2011 - in Landscaping, Turf

Midsummer weather can put even a great looking lawn into a slow dive of despondency without careful attention. As the heat kicks into high gear, soil temperatures reach their smoking point and crabgrass seeds begin germinating in earnest, popping like corn in a microwave. Limey green crabgrass plants appear virtually overnight exposing vulnerable areas along driveways, patios, walkways, mailboxes among others. Where did they come from? How can they grow so fast? Ah, the games have just begun!

 

If you have not watered and your lawn is cut short, now is when your thin lawn becomes choked out with crabgrass plants the size of small cars. During hot, humid weather, cool season grasses will stop growing, sitting idle while crabgrass seemingly grows an inch an hour, basking in the searing July heat. A weak or thin lawn, or those lacking a pre-emergent crabgrass barrier, are now at high risk for a crabgrass invasion that will only cease when school reopens. While post-emergent sprays do exist, spraying at this stage is like using a garden hose on a house fire: it’s best just to let nature take its course. Measures should be taken in the fall such as aeration, overseeding, lime, and turf thickening fertilizers to help prepare the lawn for the following spring. A healthy lawn resists this invasion, and although areas may see some crabgrass, it will not be to the point where one could harvest the greenery for salads.

A casual glance toward the interior of your lawn may reveal disturbing patches and blotches of varying sizes and colors ranging from brown to white. How can this be? What went wrong? Like a good CSI episode, it is time for the facts to speak and rule out the guessing. These issues generally fall under environmental stress such as heat, sun scald, or some other non-pathogenic source. Ruling out diseases can be very tricky depending upon the weather, timing, and location of injury. This summer has seen a significant upswing in disease-related damage ranging from pits and scars, to unusual patches. Preventative measures can be taken to help clean up your lawn with either traditional or organic treatments. Insects are perhaps the easiest to detect given their predicable nature and timing during the season. Now is a perfect time to treat for grubs, sod webworm, and chinch bugs using either organic or traditional materials.

Doing some simple things properly for your lawn during the next six weeks can reduce unsettling issues arising from disease, insects, and environmental stress. Summer is generally not the best time to spray for difficult to control broadleaf weeds like ground ivy and violets since high heat and low soil moisture content reduce product effectiveness. If you think you have an invasion at your house, get it checked out and maybe there is a solution to either stop the problem or slow the damage. Plan ahead and keep your turf clean and green!

 

 

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Be alert to what’s happening in your landscape….

Published by Mrs. Chippers on June 13th, 2011 - in Arborist, Firewood, Green Care Industry Issues, Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees

This week our region has been hammered by intense thunderstorms and many clients have been calling regarding storm damage to trees and shrubs. Sometimes there is no forewarning about which trees in your yard may be vulnerable to high winds, but for others there are signs. Trees that are close to buildings, especially softwoods like pine and fir, are particularly susceptible to storm damage. Specimens with dead or dying limbs spell double trouble.  When you have a chance go outside and inspect your mature trees – do you see things that don’t look right to you?  If so, contact one of our arborists for a complimentary consultation.

The Color Purple May Save OUr Ash Trees!

Another question that has come up a lot is about the purple boxes hanging throughout the region near stands of mature ash trees. This year the VT Department of Agriculture and the USDA collaborated to hang 2200 traps to monitor any presence of the invasive and destructive Emerald Ash Borer. So far this destructive insect has not reached Vermont but if it does it will be absolutely devastating to our ash trees. The number one preventative measure is ‘DON’T MOVE FIREWOOD’!!! Firewood is a product that should be sourced locally to help keep hidden larvae from getting into the state. You cannot tell if wood is infected with a cursory examination so the best policy is to never import it for any reason.

Last but not least, due to the wet spring conditions we’ve had this year, anthracnose disease is affecting hardwoods such as maple, ash, sycamore and oak. The most noticeable symptom of the fungi is the  browning and curling of young leaves. The disease does not usually kill the trees but makes them unsightly and susceptible to other types of damage in the planted landscape.  We recommend protective measures performed in the fall to reduce potential exposure the following spring – our consulting arborist has more information: consulting@chippersinc.com.

Typical appearance of leaves infected with anthracnose (photo courtesy of VT Dept of Ag)

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Hummingbirds Are Back In Town….

Published by Mrs. Flower on May 17th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

I’m a complete nut for ruby throated hummingbirds. They are fleeting tiny jewels that bring utter delight to the viewer. I could spend hours watching them. Surely, it would be a cliché to say that they are my favorite bird. That aside, I know I am in good company to say that I anxiously awaited their arrival this spring. The return of the hummingbirds means rebirth and utter joy to me. They make me happy. Even though they only live 3 or 4 years, my hummingbirds are the same genetic family that I have known since I have lived in my house. Studies have shown that these tiny birds return to the place from where they hatched. We have a “heart thing” going on (fact: a hummingbird heart beat 21 times per second). Last year, a mother hummingbird lined all of her chicks out on a line right over my head for me to admire. I leaned back in my chair and just watched them – agog with wonder. They were the size of my baby finger, and they pushed and pecked at each other, as children will.

Ruby throated hummingbirds spend their winters in southern Mexico and northern Panama. Most make the arduous journey across the Gulf of Mexico to make it back to their summer feeding ranges. This over water trip is 500 miles long, and can take 18-22 hours. Sometimes they travel with other larger birds, but do not, as lore tells, travel in the armpits of geese. Hummingbirds have too much dignity for such travel accommodation, and I suspect their accumulated frequent travel miles suffice.

This mild season that we have had has brought hummingbirds sooner than usual this year. They arrived a full week earlier than last year. And when they got here, I was ready! My favorite hummingbird migration site on the internet is www.hummingbirds.net. I saw that someone sighted them on April 4th in the Boston area. My old records show them arriving the first week of May, or thereabouts. But as years have gone by, they have been arriving earlier and earlier. The males arrive a couple of weeks ahead of the females and will search for a summer residence. Most people don’t know that hummingbirds eat soft-bodied bugs like flies and mosquitoes, as well as sap from certain trees, and flower nectar. Since there are not many nectariferous flowers or bugs available, this early in the season, feeders will help them establish their territory.

Hummingbirds are protein eating machines and the nectar is the fuel they use to power their enterprise. They do like a little rest as they sip, so I like to use the feeders that have perches. I also prefer the feeders that are easy to clean. The ones I use look like flying saucers. They have shallow, easy to clean bowls, with a wide flat screw-on red top, complete with perches and holes. Red coloring on the feeder itself will help to attract them initially. Later in the season, the nectar can get moldy, due to the bacteria that is introduced from the bird’s beaks. The bothersome skinny necked bottle feeders make clean-up a difficult chore.

Hummingbirds do not need the red colored hummingbird powder bought from stores, which is mixed with water and poured into the feeders. A 1 to 4 mixture of table sugar (cane or beet sugar) to water is perfect. I usually mix 1/2 cup sugar to 2 cups of water to fill a couple of feeders at a time. The hummingbird does not need red food dye to attract it to feeders. Some people think that feeding with sugar water is ‘unnatural’ but the 21% sucrose content is consistent with natural flower nectar.

My gardens are filled with plants that attract nectar feeders (I love butterflies also).

Plants to Attract and Feed Hummingbirds

Trees and Shrubs

• Azalea

• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

• Flowering Quince

• Lantana

• Red Buckeye

• Weigela

Vines

• Morning Glory

• Scarlet Runner Bean

• Trumpet Creeper

Perennials

• Agastache

• Bee Balm

• Cardinal Flower

• Columbine

• Coral Bells

• Foxglove

• Hosta

• Hummingbird Mint

• Lupine

• Penstemon

• Yucca

Annuals

• Fuchsia

• Impatiens

• Petunia

• Various Salvia species

Last year I rescued a few from barns and sheds. They thanked me, as I was weeding in the flower beds, by hovering within a foot of my face, welcoming me to the garden. I have rescued perhaps 12 hummingbirds in my life. The first one was trapped in an interior window of a shed. It was frantic. I got real close and held my hand near it as it fluttered up and down the window pane…patience…patience. It got exhausted very quickly, and when it came to rest, I quickly – but ever so gently, pinned its wings at its shoulders between my thumb and index finger. As I held this tiny bird I could see the little wrinkled folds of its eyelids, and every iridescent pin sized feather shone in the light…amazing. Ever since then, I have considered myself somewhat of a specialist in hummingbird rescue. I have imagined having a business doing nothing but answering the call of hummingbird rescue. This would the sweetest of jobs in my estimation.

I am very exacting, as it would be easy to injure their wings if they try to take flight. Their wings can flutter up to 50 odd beats per second in flight. I suppose I should be reported, for this is an offense, as it is against the law (Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918.) I think this law was made to keep people from collecting birds to stick on their hats, or for whatever other purposes people touch birds. But if the bird police show up, and I must do the time for this extreme action, then I will gladly suffer the prison food. I cannot, under any circumstances, just stand back and watch them expire if I can be of help. The pleasure that I derive from hummingbirds is certainly one of my greatest joys in life, and administering to their needs is a chief ambition.

 

 

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What the Heuchera?!

Published by Mrs. Flower on April 27th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping

The genus Heuchera, or Coral Bells (AKA  American Alumroot) is a major contender for dream plant, in my opinion. Twenty years ago I was inspired by the Perennial Plant Association’s “Plant of the Year” Heuchera micrantha ‘Palace Purple.’ I had green coral bells in my gardens and enjoyed their panicles of clean little cerise bells. But ‘Palace Purple’ leaves were, well, purple! There was at that time, nothing like it. It became all the rage.  I went wild using it with silver leaved companion plants and soft pink flowering perennials.

Coral bells were never the main act in gardens in those years. Soon I got bored with them. Even worse, I grew aggravated because the Heuchera would heave out of the ground over the winter, looking like big silly elephants standing on balls.  Little did I know that they had fine shallow, fibrous roots. It never occurred to me to lift and bury them deeper – Ah, youth!  Hence, heuchera fell out of favor with me.

Six years ago, I was entrenched in my long quest to know more about native plant species. I was surprised to learn that Heuchera villosa, and H. americana were natives and that ‘Amethyst Myst,’ a new purple leaved cultivar, had exceptional attributes compared to ‘Palace Purple.’ I fell in love all over again. The villosa species was being used extensively as an intercross breeder for new varieties of heuchera, which made for larger leaves and colors. ‘Dale’s Strain’ was an americana species with better heat tolerance and fabulous veining.  Both species can be grown from seed easily, but hybridization using their gene pool has opened a cornucopia of new cultivars that has the gardening world agog.

Native heucheras span habitats from alpine mountainous regions to low-land forests, and all share common traits: gorgeous leaves, long bloom times, excellent hardiness, rotund mounded form, salt tolerance, longevity, non-invasive, plays well with others, competes well with tree roots  and have persistent leaves during the winter. They are virtually indestructible – I know this because I still have my Palace Purple from twenty years ago, even though at times, I wished them dead.

With the use of these two species, numerous leaf colors have evolved. One could garden exclusively with heuchera, and I dare say no color would be missed. A garden of heuchera would be an easy care display. I have yet to meet a coral bell not hardy to at least -30 degrees F. They like to be in moderately dry soil, usually in full sun. The lime or chartreuse varieties do better in part sun – but this would be the case for most spring green colored leaf plants. Heuchera leaves can range in color from the darkest almost black, ‘Obsidian,’ lime colored varieties, ‘Citronelle’ and ‘Key Lime Pie,’ orange toned, ‘Caramel’ and ‘Southern Comfort,’ purple shades like ‘Frosted Violet,’  bi-colored like the amber leaf edged in chartreuse, ‘Tiramisu.’  Certain cultivars change color in the cool of fall. ‘Green Spice’ is a lovely green with purple veins and it turns pumpkin orange in the fall. All are to-die-for cultivars.

H. villosa ‘Autumn Bride’ has enjoyed my high favor for a while. It has giant green leaves and blooms in late summer with big white foxtails, it is utterly spectacular.  But, two years ago, as I innocently perused the isles of a nursery, I was gobsmacked by a new heuchera called ‘Georgia Peach.’ I went slack-jawed – and my bubble gum landed in the gravel path at my feet. This peachy colored leaf is veined in a darker red. It is BIG and beautiful and I have managed to obtain several. Now I must change the color vignette of my entire perennial border to accommodate this new pet of mine.  I envision it with purple, blue, gold and white companions. It is not that I am fickle, but that I do know love when I see it.

 

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