As with many tasks around the home, preliminary planning is the most time consuming part of planting a tree. Once you’ve chosen a suitable tree and spot, it’s time to break out the shovel. Compared to the preparation of choosing a tree and location, planting is a snap. Planting a tree (we’ll assume one with a 1-1.5″ caliper) can take less than a couple of hours once you have the preliminary work done.

Dig The Hole

The saying among home orchardists is “Dig a $50 hole for a $5 tree.” Think of the hole as moving your tree into its new home. First, strip all the sod from an area at least 3 to 4 feet across. Lawn competes with the tree for water and nutrients, and has to be trimmed which risks damage to the tree bark from mowers or string trimmers. With the sod gone into the compost pile, dig a hole no deeper than the container or root ball (loose soil under the tree causes the tree to sink as the soil settles) and three times as wide as the container or root ball, placing the soil from the hole adjacent to the hole. Rough up the sides of the hole by raking them over with a cultivator tool or by stabbing them with the shovel.

Set The Tree

This isn’t much more complicated than plopping the tree, out of its container or wrapping, into the hole. However, making sure that the tree is more or less straight and vertical. In containered or balled & burlapped trees it used to be the specification to make the top of the soil ball even with the ground level outside the hole. However, you will need to find the first significant woody root on the main stem and make sure that it is at grade. This is necessary because potted and balled & burlapped trees are shipped with the proper grade hidden in the root ball (or too deep). Bareroot trees generally have a mark on the trunk indicating planting depth.

Backfill

The soil that came out of the hole is the soil that goes back into the hole. Most cooperative extension services and arborists recommend against using soil amendments when planting a tree, since the root systems may resist spreading out of the small volume of enriched soil into the relatively poorer soil of the rest of the yard. The restricted root structure makes a weaker tree overall. When the hole is halfway full of soil, water thoroughly, then continue filling the hole with the remaining soil. Water thoroughly again when the hole is completely filled to the surrounding ground level.

Mulch

Top off with a 2 to 3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded leaves, bark or compost. The mulch layer should be kept to an inch or less at trunk of the tree.

Post-Planting Tree Care

Staking

Some trees may require staking, something determined for each tree being planted. However, most trees do better without being supported. Pressure from wind encourages development of a stronger root system to anchor a tree, so staking trees unnecessarily weakens them, since they’re not required to stand up on their own.

Watering

Download this pdf we created for more information: Planting After Care Instructions.

Pruning & Training

Most trees require some pruning and training to establish a good branch structure. The specific pruning technique depends on the species. Ornamental trees are pruned to maintain shape, while fruit trees are pruned for shape and maximum production. Training should NOT start at the time of planting – give the tree a year to acclimate and reallocate resources before the pruning process can begin. For tips on proper pruning, check out your county cooperative extension office.

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