Posts Tagged ‘shade tree’

Eastern Leatherwood – Dirca palustris

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 27th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Trees

This is the third segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Here is a darling understory shrub with a height of 3 – 6’ and equal width. When I first noticed this plant in the dappled light of my woodland, I was love struck. This is a native plant that is found in the eastern half of North America. The multi branched broad shrub is covered with light green 3” oval shaped leaves. This is a very well behaved shrub. In the shade the plant seems to be reaching for the sun and is thinner than the specimens located in full sun, which tend to be full rounded shrubs. I like to hike along the southeast base of Mt. Hoar on the edge of Lake Willoughby, Vermont, the understory is dense with Leatherwood. I am amazed at the width of the leaves, which seem much larger than the standard.

You cannot go wrong with a plant that is good in both sun and shade. It does enjoy moist soil, hence the species “palustris” which means “of the swamps”.  The texture is of medium quality and it is slow growing. This makes a fine plant for the landscape, although it is very difficult to find in cultivation. This makes me covetous. Fall brings forth a fine clear yellow in the leaf, with best color in partial shade conditions.

Leatherwood has no enemies to speak of.  Even deer won’t browse it (it is thought to possibly have diuretic qualities). Studies recently done show that extracts from the seeds contain linoleic and oleic acid which have insecticidal qualities for specific insects.

The bark has a leathery feel. It is not easy to snap off a branch. This quality made it useful for Native Americans to make baskets, bowstrings and fish lines. In very early spring, the shrub bursts forth with lovely perfect 4” butter yellow flowers. Each flower produces one seed. The large green seeds form and drop quickly, literally within a week all seeds will drop from the plant. The seeds need to be collected and sown fresh in late spring for sprouting the following spring. Layering works as a method, but proves difficult as one would have to work in the woodland laboratory where anything can happen. Propagation from cuttings is very difficult, which of course baits me – making it a must try!

American Hornbeam – Carpinus caroliniana

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 7th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the second segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Who wouldn’t like a tree with the moniker “muscle wood”? Also commonly called “blue beech” or “ironwood”, the American Hornbeam is a medium-sized native hardwood tree that, on average, reaches 20 to 30 feet in height and width. Ironwood has a range from Nova Scotia through most of the eastern seaboard of the US, to include the topmost section of Florida, and westward to roughly the middle of the central time zone. It is hardy in zones 3 – 9.

The young bark is smooth and the subtly twisted trunk looks rather sinewy. As it ages the bark becomes fissured and fluted. The form can range from a multistemmed shrub to a single stemmed tree. The growth rate is slow – about a foot per year. Enjoying moisture places it along brooks predominately in the wild. This is a tree for the understory! It is tolerant of deep shade, but also will perform in full sun with a good deep acid soil and promise of adequate fertilizer and moisture. It is also a fine tree for naturalizing.

The leaves resemble that of beech. It is a simple leaf 3 – 4” long with sharp teeth. Fall color is exceptional, displaying red, maroon, orange and gold. The tree exhibits both male and female flowers that are lovely in display, and the resulting fruits are numerous nutlets prized by birds.

Carpinius caroliniana is one of my most favorite trees, even though I know I tend to say this many times about many trees. But, this understory specimen amid taller limbed up trees is a true delight in the fall that will yield wildlife activity further along in the season. I have seen an absolutely sublime alley made of American Hornbeam – the medium texture was kind on the eye and the fall display was robust.

Eastern Redbud – Cercis canadensis

Published by Mrs. Flower on December 19th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the first segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series…

What better time than now, during the first days of winter, to be thinking about the early flowering trees of spring? Eastern redbud is perhaps my favorite blooming tree. It is certainly one of the finest native flowering trees. What I like about this tree is not only that it is one of the earliest blooming, but in the way that the profuse pinkish purple blooms seem to explode right out of the pores of the bark! There are white blooming varieties as well.

Upon inspection of the bark, on the branches and trunk, it is smooth with tiny bumps. Then quickly the knurls fatten and unfurl into a multi-stemmed bunch of 4-8 tiny flowers covering a leafless tree. Completely gorgeous.  It flowers on old wood. The flowers are bisexual and the tree is self-pollinating.

The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects. The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects.  Hence it becomes a busy little community of life. The seeds look like pea pods and this is because the genus comes from the legume family – Fabaceae. They form over the course of the summer and are attractive to seed eating birds – Cardinals being my favorites. The seed can be germinated after scarification with sulfuric acid for about a half hour and then given 6 – 8 weeks of cold treatment. The seed does have an internal dormancy, but most will germinate with proper care.

As if the 2-3 week flowering period is not enough, the young leaves appear as small cranberry colored hearts that grow to a large 4” blue green cordate leaf.  The leaves turn an exceptional golden yellow in the fall. This little tree can be used in a garden setting and it is possible to utilize it as a shrub with selective pruning. The redbud is not especially vulnerable to pests and diseases. This is a versatile genus that is easy to grow and take care of.

The cercis is a medium textured, short-lived deciduous tree found throughout the eastern United States. It is tolerant of most soil types, except refuses to be happy in constantly wet soils. It has a deep taproot and is aggressive in establishment in full sun to part shade. The average height is 15-20′ and the spread is 18-25′. It has a lovely horizontal branching, rotund form.  The growth rate is medium, which makes it perfect for the garden, as it will not quickly take over. Most rapid growth occurs in youth, in the first 5–6 years, when it can grow 6–10’, then growth is slow. The Eastern Redbud is a native tree that is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Be careful not to acquire a tree that has come from seed stock grown in the south as, most likely, it will not be hardy to far north conditions.

I have a variety called  ‘Forest Pansy’ in my garden that is hardy to zone 5. While I am in zone 4, I have enjoyed this little tree for five years.I always lose the branches every winter and I cut them back, fearing that this might be the end, but the tree keeps flushing forth with BIG dark purple hearts which turn various shades of apricot in the fall.

Visitors always ask what it is. It has never, and may never bloom because I have to keep pruning the winter kill – but I love this tree so much. Even if it does expire, I will surely replace it with another.

I am dying to try a new cultivar ‘Rising Sun’ which has golden tangerine heart -shaped foliage summer through fall; new leaves are bright rosy apricot. It grows to a height of 12’, which would be perfect as a garden framework maker. It is hardy to zone 5, but I do enjoy pushing my limits!

 

 

Be alert to what’s happening in your landscape….

This week our region has been hammered by intense thunderstorms and many clients have been calling regarding storm damage to trees and shrubs. Sometimes there is no forewarning about which trees in your yard may be vulnerable to high winds, but for others there are signs. Trees that are close to buildings, especially softwoods like pine and fir, are particularly susceptible to storm damage. Specimens with dead or dying limbs spell double trouble.  When you have a chance go outside and inspect your mature trees – do you see things that don’t look right to you?  If so, contact one of our arborists for a complimentary consultation.

The Color Purple May Save OUr Ash Trees!

Another question that has come up a lot is about the purple boxes hanging throughout the region near stands of mature ash trees. This year the VT Department of Agriculture and the USDA collaborated to hang 2200 traps to monitor any presence of the invasive and destructive Emerald Ash Borer. So far this destructive insect has not reached Vermont but if it does it will be absolutely devastating to our ash trees. The number one preventative measure is ‘DON’T MOVE FIREWOOD’!!! Firewood is a product that should be sourced locally to help keep hidden larvae from getting into the state. You cannot tell if wood is infected with a cursory examination so the best policy is to never import it for any reason.

Last but not least, due to the wet spring conditions we’ve had this year, anthracnose disease is affecting hardwoods such as maple, ash, sycamore and oak. The most noticeable symptom of the fungi is the  browning and curling of young leaves. The disease does not usually kill the trees but makes them unsightly and susceptible to other types of damage in the planted landscape.  We recommend protective measures performed in the fall to reduce potential exposure the following spring – our consulting arborist has more information: consulting@chippersinc.com.

Typical appearance of leaves infected with anthracnose (photo courtesy of VT Dept of Ag)

Finally, the Growing Degree Days Begin…

Yesterday, April 12, 2011, we finally had degree days! 6.6 per our Chippers weather station, and it was probably over 10 at lower elevations.

Growing degree days are used to predict the hatch/vulnerability of insects – in our case on woody plants. They are calculated by taking the high and low (in Fahrenheit) of each day, taking their average, and deducting 50. Negative numbers are thrown out, as happens all winter.

Insects that make an early appearance are White pine weevil (mostly a problem for spruce) and pear thrip (a problem for Sugar maples).

Today, April 13th, we had a GDD of 7.3 today. Some of what you will see up to GDD 50: Red maple, magnolia, some rhododendron, pieris and forsythia will all bloom. White pine weevil may be seen doing its dirty deeds at 60 degrees and above, and we are treating for these this week.

These insects are all vulnerable to dormant oil spray up until gdd 50: Scales, Aphids, Mealybugs, Psyllids, Aphids + Mites.

For more information on this topic, please visit our website, www.chippersinc.com.

Forecasting for a Rainy Day

Published by Mr. Tree on February 17th, 2011 - in Land Enhancement, Trees

Forecasting the weather has always seemed like the perfect job, at least to me. What other profession can you be employed in where you can make a reasonably good salary (I think) and be wrong better than 50% of the time. Despite the less than stellar prediction performance, people still tune in every day and night? Is that not the best job ever? Well, not as great as a job in the “green care” industry.
Another difficult area to forecast is our nations and our local economies. Will we be seeing greater prosperity in the near future? Is the current recovery long-term or temporary? Is our financial future safe and secure? Although these questions are difficult to answer, we do listen to those that forecast. And although we can’t see the future, the current forecast looks promising. However, it is still prudent to be prepared.
During these times of economic uncertainty there are proactive steps that can be taken. One step could be to establish a “rainy day” property account. Not only can you improve the health of your property, you can improve the health of your pocket. So, how can this “rainy day” property account be established? Forest management is the answer…
There are several key things to remember regarding Forest Management. First and foremost is the health of your forest. I look at the forest just as a gardener does their vegetable garden. A gardener weeds, removing all the bad stuff he or she doesn’t want growing in the garden. Weeding helps the garden crops reach their full potential. As a result, there are more nutrients for the vegetables, flowers and herbs to flourish. Sounds pretty straight forward, right? Let’s take a look at the first step to take regarding your forest…

The best way for your Forest to reach its full potential is to consult with a forester that is trained in the art and science of silviculture. Silviculture is the care and cultivation of forest trees; forestry. The forester can with his knowledge, evaluate your forest and develop a plan that meets your Forest Management and “rainy day” property account goals. Also, your forester is knowledgeable of the log markets and would best be able to determine when to harvest selected trees on your forested property. Furthermore, the forester will have relationships with the professionals that would harvest your forested crop. And these professional relationships are paramount to the success of the forest management plan.
Overall, Forest Management can and does have multiple mutually inclusive benefits to you the land owner and your forested property’s health. Additionally, the winter season is one of the best times to perform Forest Management operations. The frozen ground allows for substantially less degradation to the forest soils and minimizes erosion concerns. So take the first step today. Consult with a forester and a reputable company who can assist you in developing a Forest Management Plan and a “rainy day” property account. The result will be enhanced forest health, additional recreational opportunities, and wildlife diversity of your forest.

Seven Weeks Until Spring Is Still Plenty of Time for Winter Tree Work….

Top 10 Benefits to Performing Tree Work In Your Landscape During the Winter Months:

  1. Improve Your View: Enhancement work during the dormant season is ideal when leaves aren’t blocking the vista potential.
  2. Your Lawn Will Thank You: Frozen ground allows large equipment to access your site while minimizing damage to lawns, gardens and the forest floor.
  3. Prevent Distress: Cold weather prevents the spread of tree disease as well as minimizes shock due to leaf loss.
  4. Timing Is Everything: February and March are preferred times for orchard and fruit tree pruning, and for many other species.
  5. Peace of Mind: Know your trees and shrubs are prepared for fast re-growth during the coming spring, no matter what Mother Nature brings.
  6. Prior Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance: Allows you to begin other spring landscaping projects earlier.
  7. Seeing Is Believing: Identify potential hazards or problems while the entire woody structure of deciduous trees is visible without leaves.
  8. Walk or Talk: Discuss your 2011 goals and plans for your landscape with your representative, either on site or via email/phone.
  9. Our Time Is Yours: Take advantage of more flexible scheduling.
  10. Outstanding Value: Enjoy off-season rates with the same chippers commitment to the highest quality and service.

We take care of everything green outside your door, all winter long.

What can we do for you?

Analog In A Digital World

Have you ever missed seeing a clock, with hands? Hearing the tick, tick, tick as the second hand works its way around the circle. What about a little hiss (just a little) while listening to recorded music or even the notion of a space between the notes. How about a test that didn’t require a #2 pencil or a drive thru restaurant that isn’t duplicated around-the-world?

I have the antidote. Tree pruning! Pruning is all analog; every cut and snip is thoughtful and different. Each species requiring a different set of considerations; with location, age and client expectations all a part of the mix. Cookie cutter pruning just doesn’t work!

So what’s the big deal?

Our lives have been co-opted by the digital age. Think about it. Computers are everywhere. I use one at work, one for the office at home, and one connected to the television for streaming. My work phone thinks it’s a computer, telling me I have mail, an appointment or someone to talk to. And there’s an on-line social network with so many “friends”.

I’m no Luddite; I actually enjoy the anticipation of the next Apple device and how I might use it. I even plan to install an iPad in the kitchen for recipes and to Skype (live video) my mom.

My antidote? Get outside! I can’t think of a better analog activity than pruning. But a close second could include…working in the garden, snowshoeing, climbing a tree, riding a bike, badminton on the lawn, building a snowman, flying a kite, sailing, a walk in the forest – and so many more!

At chippers we mulled over creating a new tag line. I liked “see you outside”.  What could be a better yang for the yin of this digital world?

So at chippers, even though we are armed with our smart phones and computers that help keep us on time for our appointments; we understand that our real strength is when we “see you outside”. And we promise to leave the “cookie cutter” approach in the office and give you only the best analog work in your: Trees, Turf, Garden, Land and Forest.

Winter is the time to renew your Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Long and cold winter days and nights often have me daydreaming of once green lush lawns, gardens and trees.  And despite the recent blasts of cold and healthy snowfalls, now is time to think about and prepare for your 2011 Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Review your Turf and Plant Health Care proposals this winter

The weather plays a large role in the spring, relative to what and when certain treatments can be applied; and success or failure is linked to temperature and moisture levels.  High heat speeds up insect, weed, and disease development; and in some cases by days not weeks.  While this may not seem of great importance, temperature plays a huge role in advancing or retarding certain pathogens, ultimately affecting your landscape.  If you do not have a program “online” or ready to go, this tight window can easily be missed.  Cold weather can slow down the ability of your lawn to recover and green up fast.  The later the first application of fertilizer, compost tea, or lime is applied; the more your grass would be absent the time needed for improved color and recover from winter damage.

I have seen several years in April and May where the temperature rose into the high 70’s to lower 80’s.  This type of rapid spring warm-up can make some types of weed control applications harmful to turf without proper precautions.  The same precautions need to be taken when scheduling early plant health care spray applications.  If not prepared, you simply miss the window of opportunity for obtaining decent results relative to a variety of insect and disease issues.

Moisture content can also wreak havoc on turf and shrubs in the spring; especially if the spring is cold and rainy.  Such weather greatly advances snow molds and leaf spot on turf while creating apple scab on fruit trees.  Low moisture can reduce seed germination without proper irrigation.  Scheduling of overseeding or aeration during the winter insures completion at the proper time frame in the spring.  A great green care company will watch weather trends and activate services during the appropriate time frame.  You deserve and should demand this level of service.

Peace of mind is another reason to have your Turf or Plant Healthcare program set-up during the winter months.  You can relax and rest assured, knowing that your green care needs will be taken care of.  We will insure that all applications are timely and you will see the results.

The last fabulous reason to schedule your green care treatments during the winter includes financial incentives.  You may qualify for multiple incentives.  For example, if you prepay or return a signed contract before a certain deadline, you may qualify.  Look for these kinds of financial incentives; and look to see if you are partnering with an accredited, licensed, high quality and diversified ‘green care’ company.

Cabling – We put our signature on it!

bad splice - poor quality signature.

good splice - signature of quality workmanship

Arborists make many decisions during their work days. And when involved in tree preservation (as opposed to tree removal) nothing makes more of a lasting impression than the cable the arborist installs. A properly installed cable should provide many years of additional support to a tree branch or leader union that might otherwise fail and/ or require removal. Many considerations, measurements and calculations go into each and every cable. The installation of a cable and splice may best be described as the arborist’s “signature”. Sometimes years after an initial cable installation, another arborist may ascend the tree perhaps for some pruning or another cable and that old cable will say something about the installers’ quality of work (see photos):

In the many years I have cared for clients trees, I’ve seen some really sad and telling cable installations. These include the following:

too low in the tree
unapproved hardware
missing thimbles
improper bolt angles
tree decay AND poor splices

A splice using common grade cable should be neat, include the minimum wraps (all in the same direction) and include a snuggly fit thimble.

At chippers we love what we do and it shows. It shows in the big things that you see, and it shows in the little things that you may not see. If you’re not sure about the quality of cables in your tree – give us a call and we’ll check the signature!

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