Posts Tagged ‘shade tree’

Winter is the time to renew your Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Long and cold winter days and nights often have me daydreaming of once green lush lawns, gardens and trees.  And despite the recent blasts of cold and healthy snowfalls, now is time to think about and prepare for your 2011 Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Review your Turf and Plant Health Care proposals this winter

The weather plays a large role in the spring, relative to what and when certain treatments can be applied; and success or failure is linked to temperature and moisture levels.  High heat speeds up insect, weed, and disease development; and in some cases by days not weeks.  While this may not seem of great importance, temperature plays a huge role in advancing or retarding certain pathogens, ultimately affecting your landscape.  If you do not have a program “online” or ready to go, this tight window can easily be missed.  Cold weather can slow down the ability of your lawn to recover and green up fast.  The later the first application of fertilizer, compost tea, or lime is applied; the more your grass would be absent the time needed for improved color and recover from winter damage.

I have seen several years in April and May where the temperature rose into the high 70’s to lower 80’s.  This type of rapid spring warm-up can make some types of weed control applications harmful to turf without proper precautions.  The same precautions need to be taken when scheduling early plant health care spray applications.  If not prepared, you simply miss the window of opportunity for obtaining decent results relative to a variety of insect and disease issues.

Moisture content can also wreak havoc on turf and shrubs in the spring; especially if the spring is cold and rainy.  Such weather greatly advances snow molds and leaf spot on turf while creating apple scab on fruit trees.  Low moisture can reduce seed germination without proper irrigation.  Scheduling of overseeding or aeration during the winter insures completion at the proper time frame in the spring.  A great green care company will watch weather trends and activate services during the appropriate time frame.  You deserve and should demand this level of service.

Peace of mind is another reason to have your Turf or Plant Healthcare program set-up during the winter months.  You can relax and rest assured, knowing that your green care needs will be taken care of.  We will insure that all applications are timely and you will see the results.

The last fabulous reason to schedule your green care treatments during the winter includes financial incentives.  You may qualify for multiple incentives.  For example, if you prepay or return a signed contract before a certain deadline, you may qualify.  Look for these kinds of financial incentives; and look to see if you are partnering with an accredited, licensed, high quality and diversified ‘green care’ company.

Cabling – We put our signature on it!

bad splice - poor quality signature.

good splice - signature of quality workmanship

Arborists make many decisions during their work days. And when involved in tree preservation (as opposed to tree removal) nothing makes more of a lasting impression than the cable the arborist installs. A properly installed cable should provide many years of additional support to a tree branch or leader union that might otherwise fail and/ or require removal. Many considerations, measurements and calculations go into each and every cable. The installation of a cable and splice may best be described as the arborist’s “signature”. Sometimes years after an initial cable installation, another arborist may ascend the tree perhaps for some pruning or another cable and that old cable will say something about the installers’ quality of work (see photos):

In the many years I have cared for clients trees, I’ve seen some really sad and telling cable installations. These include the following:

too low in the tree
unapproved hardware
missing thimbles
improper bolt angles
tree decay AND poor splices

A splice using common grade cable should be neat, include the minimum wraps (all in the same direction) and include a snuggly fit thimble.

At chippers we love what we do and it shows. It shows in the big things that you see, and it shows in the little things that you may not see. If you’re not sure about the quality of cables in your tree – give us a call and we’ll check the signature!

Reducing Chances of Dutch Elm Disease

Published by Mr. Tree on November 16th, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Trees

Today we pruned a large elm tree in front of the Town Hall on Main Street in Hanover. William Desch, the towns’ arborist, knows pruned elms stand a much better chance of keeping Dutch elm disease at bay. In fact all of the town’s elms along with Dartmouth College’s elm trees are pruned and monitored in a good effort to keep them free of Dutch elm disease.

Why does pruning help? Dutch elm disease spreads from tree to tree primarily one way (to keep this post short I won’t even mention the lesser ways). The disease causing fungus is carried by an insect vector called the elm bark beetle. The beetles like to hang out under the bark of dead elm trees and the dead branches of otherwise healthy elm trees. Keeping elm trees free of dead or damaged branches reduces the threat and spread of the disease.

In addition to pruning elm trees, a good sanitation program must include the quick removal and disposal of infected trees if remedial treatment is considered ineffectual. Remedial treatments usually include: cutting behind the infection (removal of infected parts) and a follow-up fungicide treatment.

So, from 9am this morning till about noon, Bill Murphy one of our ISA certified arborists ascended the tree and pruned. The rest of us on the ground kept pedestrian traffic safely flowing while the Hanover Police graciously directed traffic.

The sun was shining, people were happy, and the tree was being preserved. It is Friday, and all is good!

Apples and More Apples

Published by Mr. Tree on October 18th, 2010 - in Arborist, Pruning, Trees

We seem to be caring for fruit trees and shrubs more and more. Perhaps the economy has people feeling better about an edible landscape in their back yard. We specialize in the aesthetic – fruit sort of takes a back seat – but that doesn’t mean it can’t look nice AND be good eating!
My list of what’s best for fruit trees:
Start with a tree that’s suitable for our climate (zone). Root stock and variety plays a part in this so consulting with an orchardist is a good idea.
Proper planting and protection of the tree from rodents and deer early in the tree’s life is very important. We love planting trees – and we can help with selection too.
Assume the tree will be a semi-dwarf variety, meaning an ideal height of approximately 12 feet. Maintaining a terminal (dominate) leader is important if you want a long term, healthy and sturdy tree. Have your trees pruned by an expert. Chippers loves to prune apple trees.

Apple trees are prone to a variety of insects and diseases (and fungus). An annual pest management program will keep the tree looking good with the added benefit of better fruit. We offer this service, using both traditional orchard products and improved natural products (I personally use traditional pesticides early in the season, switching to natural products as the fruit develops).
The fruits of your labors will be a healthy, good looking tree and the main ingredient for many apple pies!

Tent Caterpillars In the Fall?

Published by Mr. Tree on August 6th, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care

fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea)

Have you seen webs in the trees this summer?

Do you know what causes it? The offending insect that creates the webbed nests is the larval stage of a moth. After spending a cold winter in the duff, and tired of watching TV in its cocoon (some have wifi), the pupae will emerge as an adult as early as late June to deposit eggs on the underside of leaves. These eggs will hatch within a week, quickly becoming a big family of hungry larvae, anxious to start spinning their silken webs over the leaves upon which to feed (most hardwoods are on the menu).
The name of this moth is fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea) and its webs appear in summer! It looks suspiciously like tent caterpillar – but don’t be fooled. Tent caterpillars are a spring insect, hatched and waiting to feed as the host trees leaves emerge.
What to do? Because fall webworm is a “late season insect” and the trees have had much of the spring/summer to produce food (photosynthate) they really cause little harm. Unlike the tent caterpillar, feeding on the emerging leaves of a hungry tree just awakened from a long winters sleep – fall webworm is an aesthetic nuisance – that’s all.
Do nothing? Doing nothing is an option – fall frost will end feeding, starting the cycle over again and the fall rains and winters snow will eventually wash the offending webs from the tree. You could manually remove the webs from the trees – but this can be difficult in a 50 foot tall cherry tree (a webworm favorite). July treatment with an insecticide will usually suppress this insect – unfortunately repeat applications are often necessary.

Red Oak Planted In Honor of Phil French On Arbor Day

Published by Mrs. Chippers on May 18th, 2010 - in Arborist, Trees

The Meredith News wrote a very nice piece about our Arbor Day planting and dedication ceremony at Prescott Park in memory of Phil French. We are grateful to Bill Collins of Collins Tree Service and the NH Arborists Association, and the Town of Meredith Parks and Recreation Department, for making this event possible. Click on the link below to read the original article.

Arbor Day Planting for Phil French

Plant A Tree For Arbor Day In Four Simple Steps

Published by Mr. Tree on April 30th, 2010 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Trees

As with many tasks around the home, preliminary planning is the most time consuming part of planting a tree. Once you’ve chosen a suitable tree and spot, it’s time to break out the shovel. Compared to the preparation of choosing a tree and location, planting is a snap. Planting a tree (we’ll assume one with a 1-1.5″ caliper) can take less than a couple of hours once you have the preliminary work done.


Dig The Hole

The saying among home orchardists is “Dig a $50 hole for a $5 tree.” Think of the hole as moving your tree into its new home. First, strip all the sod from an area at least 3 to 4 feet across. Lawn competes with the tree for water and nutrients, and has to be trimmed which risks damage to the tree bark from mowers or string trimmers. With the sod gone into the compost pile, dig a hole no deeper than the container or root ball (loose soil under the tree causes the tree to sink as the soil settles) and three times as wide as the container or root ball, placing the soil from the hole adjacent to the hole. Rough up the sides of the hole by raking them over with a cultivator tool or by stabbing them with the shovel.


Set The Tree

This isn’t much more complicated than plopping the tree, out of its container or wrapping, into the hole. However, making sure that the tree is more or less straight and vertical. In containered or balled & burlapped trees it used to be the specification to make the top of the soil ball even with the ground level outside the hole. However, you will need to find the first significant woody root on the main stem and make sure that it is at grade. This is necessary because potted and balled & burlapped trees are shipped with the proper grade hidden in the root ball (or too deep). Bareroot trees generally have a mark on the trunk indicating planting depth.


Backfill

The soil that came out of the hole is the soil that goes back into the hole. Most cooperative extension services and arborists recommend against using soil amendments when planting a tree, since the root systems may resist spreading out of the small volume of enriched soil into the relatively poorer soil of the rest of the yard. The restricted root structure makes a weaker tree overall. When the hole is halfway full of soil, water thoroughly, then continue filling the hole with the remaining soil. Water thoroughly again when the hole is completely filled to the surrounding ground level.


Mulch

Top off with a 2 to 3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded leaves, bark or compost. The mulch layer should be kept to an inch or less at trunk of the tree.


Post-Planting Tree Care


Staking

Some trees may require staking, something determined for each tree being planted. However, most trees do better without being supported. Pressure from wind encourages development of a stronger root system to anchor a tree, so staking trees unnecessarily weakens them, since they’re not required to stand up on their own.


Watering

Download this pdf we created for more information: Planting After Care Instructions.


Pruning & Training

Most trees require some pruning and training to establish a good branch structure. The specific pruning technique depends on the species. Ornamental trees are pruned to maintain shape, while fruit trees are pruned for shape and maximum production. Training should NOT start at the time of planting – give the tree a year to acclimate and reallocate resources before the pruning process can begin. For tips on proper pruning, check out your county cooperative extension office.

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Planting Trees Is Cool … and Hot!

Published by Mrs. Chippers on February 24th, 2010 - in Arborist, Trees

Despite the dumping of new snow this morning we’re looking forward to spring in our neck of the woods so we can begin the tree planting projects we have in the works for 2010.  We love to plant trees at Chippers.  From the tiniest seedling to very large mature specimens, for us there is nothing quite like the thrill of selecting and placing trees in the landscape.  There are so many good reasons for tree planting: aesthetics, wildlife habitat & food, privacy, erosion control, CO2 production, a place for a swing or hammock, etc. The list goes on and on….

In these economic times the most compelling reasons for tree planting are for energy savings and home value enhancement. Did you know an evergreen windbreak planted to the north of your home can lower your heating bill by up to 20%? Or that deciduous shade trees properly located in your landscape can reduce your cooling costs by up to 35%? And by some estimates a landscape with mature trees increases your property value by up to 15%. All of these statistics are from the Arbor Day Foundation: www.arborday.org.

Plant small trees yourself with guidelines from the NH Cooperative Extension.  If you need advice or assistance with planting or transplanting large trees this spring contact us: www.chippersinc.com.

While we wait for planting season I’m headed out the door on those X-country skis that have been sitting idly for the last few weeks….

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