Posts Tagged ‘Turf’

Is Core Aeration On Your Fall ‘To Do’ List?

Published by Mr. Grass on July 27th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Turf

Core aeration or aeration is a physical process that utilizes a heavy machine called an aerator. Similar to a garden rototiller, the aeration machine has a central shaft with 4 or 5 discs where the actual aeration tines are attached. There are several types of aerators: some utilize solid tines while others are hollow, allowing the machine to extract plugs as it drives over your lawn. These tines are designed to penetrate your lawn like using a cutter for cookies. Most aeration cores will vary between ½” and 1” in diameter and will be left on the surface of your lawn. The depth of a good core aeration job should vary between two and three inches. Core length is dependent on soil moisture, the weight of the machine and its ability to push down versus roll over compacted soil, as well as the age or length of the tines. Older tines become worn and must be replaced as they do not have the capacity to penetrate the soil with a blunt or worn tip. If you are considering a rental aerator, be sure to check the tips of the tines – the more pointed they are, the better. A blunt tine or one with a worn down tips will simply not pull a decent plug, although you may enjoy the exercise!

An aeration machine’s effectiveness is also dependent upon the weight of the unit and the speed at which is it used over the lawn. The faster the aeration job, the less likely the machine’s weight can push down, forcing the tines into the soil. In addition, most rentals are smaller, older units, enabling the average home owner to utilize the machine on a given weekend. Although these rental units may do an adequate job in terms of maneuvering given their shorter width, a commercial grade aerator weighs hundreds of pounds more and is strapped with not only weights, but also with a drum full of water. Basic physics dictates that using the right tool for the job, in this case a commercial aerator, will provide superior results.

Aeration can be done any time of the year, but typically it is done in the spring or fall when soil moisture is greatest to ensure good plugs. In addition, fall is the best time of year to over seed a lawn due to warm temperatures and more importantly, the absence of annual weeds like crabgrass that often interferes and reduces results. Overseeding introduces superior grass varieties after an aeration job. The seed germinates primarily in the aeration holes just like doing a hair transplant. Overseeding is not meant to fill in damaged lawns with large patches or bare areas: this would be more in line with topdressing and seeding that could be done in conjunction with an aeration job. Topdressing adds soil or compost in a thin layer allowing germination to take place in bare sections. Overseeding adds new grass to an existing lawn area and small bare spots, and helps thicken up an existing lawn or thin areas. Aeration and overseeding is not meant to establish a lawn or repair significant damage without the use of topdressing or lawn restoration. Aeration is a great process and should be done annually to help maintain good soil health while minimizing compaction.

What are the benefits of Aeration?

- Increased moisture penetration since the holes open up space for rain to reach the root system below. The surface of the soil is hardened from high heat and summer drought, and a lack of rain makes the surface of the lawn much harder to loosen up due to the baking action of summer heat.

- Increased oxygen exchange (important for healthy roots) especially in compacted and dry soils. Punching holes in the lawn will physically allow air to reach into the surrounding root systems, even as the hole begins to break down and fill back in with soil next spring.

- Reduces soil compaction (especially soils high in clay) caused by those summer parties or high use. Compacted soil does not promote healthy roots in grass or trees for that matter.

- Increases penetration of fertilizers and other lawn products due to the holes being made. The pellets or flakes simply roll into the plug and dissolve for faster results.

- Increases rate of thatch decomposition due to micro-organisms being brought up to the surface in the plug itself. There is no need to rake aeration plugs off a home lawn as they breakdown on their own in a short period of time.

- Increases root development due to the vacant space created by the aerator tine. The turf roots can expand outward and beyond in search of water, air, and nutrients in the soil.

If you don’t have aeration scheduled this year, give us a call and we can give you a proposal on aeration, as well as overseeding. If topdressing is necessary, we can also give you recommendations on this procedure. Aeration typically begins in mid to late August and runs right into October. If you are interested or have questions on this important process, be sure to give us a call or e-mail anytime. It will be back to school time before you know it!

 

 

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Prevent Lawn Despair During Our Dog Days of Summer

Published by Mr. Grass on July 19th, 2011 - in Landscaping, Turf

Midsummer weather can put even a great looking lawn into a slow dive of despondency without careful attention. As the heat kicks into high gear, soil temperatures reach their smoking point and crabgrass seeds begin germinating in earnest, popping like corn in a microwave. Limey green crabgrass plants appear virtually overnight exposing vulnerable areas along driveways, patios, walkways, mailboxes among others. Where did they come from? How can they grow so fast? Ah, the games have just begun!

 

If you have not watered and your lawn is cut short, now is when your thin lawn becomes choked out with crabgrass plants the size of small cars. During hot, humid weather, cool season grasses will stop growing, sitting idle while crabgrass seemingly grows an inch an hour, basking in the searing July heat. A weak or thin lawn, or those lacking a pre-emergent crabgrass barrier, are now at high risk for a crabgrass invasion that will only cease when school reopens. While post-emergent sprays do exist, spraying at this stage is like using a garden hose on a house fire: it’s best just to let nature take its course. Measures should be taken in the fall such as aeration, overseeding, lime, and turf thickening fertilizers to help prepare the lawn for the following spring. A healthy lawn resists this invasion, and although areas may see some crabgrass, it will not be to the point where one could harvest the greenery for salads.

A casual glance toward the interior of your lawn may reveal disturbing patches and blotches of varying sizes and colors ranging from brown to white. How can this be? What went wrong? Like a good CSI episode, it is time for the facts to speak and rule out the guessing. These issues generally fall under environmental stress such as heat, sun scald, or some other non-pathogenic source. Ruling out diseases can be very tricky depending upon the weather, timing, and location of injury. This summer has seen a significant upswing in disease-related damage ranging from pits and scars, to unusual patches. Preventative measures can be taken to help clean up your lawn with either traditional or organic treatments. Insects are perhaps the easiest to detect given their predicable nature and timing during the season. Now is a perfect time to treat for grubs, sod webworm, and chinch bugs using either organic or traditional materials.

Doing some simple things properly for your lawn during the next six weeks can reduce unsettling issues arising from disease, insects, and environmental stress. Summer is generally not the best time to spray for difficult to control broadleaf weeds like ground ivy and violets since high heat and low soil moisture content reduce product effectiveness. If you think you have an invasion at your house, get it checked out and maybe there is a solution to either stop the problem or slow the damage. Plan ahead and keep your turf clean and green!

 

 

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Lawn watering, from green to brown….

Published by Mr. Grass on June 21st, 2011 - in Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Turf

June is typically a transition month from cooler wet weather to warmer and drier weather in NH and VT. While you may enjoy the warmer weather, your lawn is composed of cool season grasses and disapproves of 80 or 90 degree days. Your grass is designed to flourish in 60 or 70 degree temperatures, but set the weather to broil and you will have consequences. For instance, even a healthy green lawn with plenty of water is still susceptible to leaf scorch – a condition similar to taking a vacation in Mexico in January. The lawn has succulent leaves, full of moisture, and they may not be fully prepared for hot weather. I have seen lawns turn from a vibrant green to patches of white or tan overnight! I can hear the phrase “what happened?” echo down the street from front porch to porch.

How can such a thing be prevented? You can mow regularly with a sharp blade to 3 inches, not too short as to cause stress. Don’t over fertilize either because too much of a good thing is never healthy. A lawn cranked up on the golden juice of high soluble fertilizers is predisposed to stress and what we in the business call the classic “crash.” This crash is a like watching a nice sports car hit a concrete wall – most unpleasant. A lawn that is racing in terms of growth can be dangerous, especially if that same lawn runs out of soil moisture and/or hits a period of 90 degree days. This type of weather can spell all kinds of trouble for what seemed bliss for you as a homeowner. You may see all kinds of white blotching as “hot spots,” as the sunniest areas tend to dry out first and turn a dull purple or off green.

Don’t confuse this type of situation with summer diseases which may also be present. Dollar spot, brown patch, and a hoard of numerous villains await a weak, dry lawn, or one that stays wet overnight due to late watering or humidity. Drought stress or sun scald can mimic diseases like dollar spot or patch diseases during the summer. If you are in doubt, have a professional look in order to determine what course of action may be required.

When it comes to watering, anything is better than nothing when it comes to your lawn turning from green, to dull purple, to light tan, to all out brown. Drought stress, combined with hot weather, can cause a lawn to crash and brown out in mere days if left unattended. Any irrigation is better than no irrigation in the sense that once your lawn goes brown, it takes weeks to start new growth and push out new green leaves. Brown grass leaves don’t just rehydrate and turn green for the most part – they are gone and need to be replaced. Early intervention by watering can either minimize or prevent massive browning if done correctly. Most turf wants 1” of rainfall per week to continue normal activities. If you can water in the morning, this is preferred to help minimize disease and evaporation in the day’s heat. Watering for a soaking is better than a light misting. In other words, a 1hr soak is better than 15 minutes a day, yet 15 minutes a day is better than no irrigation at all. Early watering will yield faster results and help the lawn stay green before things turn tan or brown. Watch for those hazing dull patches, those sections that don’t bounce back after you walk over them so you can still see your footprints. These are the priority areas that need water versus turf that is still a vibrant green.

 

 

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Who’s Been Eating My Grass?

Published by Mr. Grass on April 20th, 2011 - in Landscaping, Turf

As the snow melts (eventually), you may find surface tunnels on your lawn. This can be a disturbing image and is most unpleasant. Voles, also known as field mice, will tunnel under the snow, eating the grass and shallow roots of your lawn. The result of this frozen dinner feast is a maze of tunnels created where the mice traveled. The extent of the damage can be minor such as leaves and thatch being eaten all the way to roots and shoots, a more severe result of mouse lawn damage.

Your best bet is to let the area recover in April and do some seeding in May once the soil warms up enough. Depending upon the extent and depth of the damage, you may not have to do anything, or as in this picture above, the soil is exposed, likely requiring some modest efforts to restore the grass to its original condition.

 

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An Insider’s View: 2011 Lawn Care Trends

Published by Mr. Grass on February 28th, 2011 - in Green Care Industry Issues, Plant Health Care, Turf

The clock is ticking as companies prepare for the snow melt and the onset of the 2011 lawn care season.  In this blog post I shall briefly cover compost tea, kelp, fertilizer pricing, Mycorrhizae, and other trends worth exploring.

As petroleum prices rise, so does the cost of manufacturing basic fertilizer components.  Lawn care companies can expect to pay more for their fertilizer products in 2011, thus increasing the need to execute an effective and efficient turf program.  There has been one price increase already with perhaps another expected midyear.  Those companies unable to make sound business decisions may become a thing of the past.  Some price increases may inevitably be passed onto the consumer as pressure builds to make a profit in a highly competitive industry.

The bell continues to toll for fundamental changes utilizing basic soil and environmental processes in the lawn care industry to move further away from petroleum dependency. These options include inoculating seed with beneficial fungi called Mycorrhizae.  One inoculation allows this fungus to multiply and spread within a lawn area.  Long used in the tree industry, Mycorrhizae sets up a friendly relationship on the turf root system, breaking down surrounding nutrients and minerals.  The end result generally becomes a lessened demand on the quantity of fertilizer required due to this helpful relationship below ground.

There are still more options available beyond standard fertilizers such as compost tea and kelp both of which utilize actual plant material, minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and much more to help improve soil structure and thereby create a healthier lawn.  Compost tea usually contains beneficial bacteria, sugars, and kelp, all helping your grass become stronger while simultaneously improving the defensive mechanism to fight off insect and disease pressure.  Although there are lots of blends and types of compost tea, the general idea is to strengthen the lawn so it can withstand drought, insect, and disease pressure as it appears during the growing season.  Compost tea and kelp both help build the soil which is very often a large limiting factor in improving a lawn.  With many lawns containing high amounts of sand or minimal top soil, adding kelp and or compost tea becomes a very sound decision.

Both sea kelp and compost tea are not inexpensive, but they provide key materials not found in some fertilizers and they improve soil infrastructure.  Compare the investment in compost tea, kelp, or Mycorrhizae versus renovating your lawn and you are looking at saving thousands of dollars at a minimum.  Any lawn treatment that can help reduce fertilizer demand and build the soil is certainly worth exploring and perhaps even using in 2011.

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Winter is the time to renew your Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Published by Mr. Grass on January 18th, 2011 - in Arborist, Green Care Industry Issues, Plant Health Care, Turf

Long and cold winter days and nights often have me daydreaming of once green lush lawns, gardens and trees.  And despite the recent blasts of cold and healthy snowfalls, now is time to think about and prepare for your 2011 Turf and Plant Health Care programs.

Review your Turf and Plant Health Care proposals this winter

The weather plays a large role in the spring, relative to what and when certain treatments can be applied; and success or failure is linked to temperature and moisture levels.  High heat speeds up insect, weed, and disease development; and in some cases by days not weeks.  While this may not seem of great importance, temperature plays a huge role in advancing or retarding certain pathogens, ultimately affecting your landscape.  If you do not have a program “online” or ready to go, this tight window can easily be missed.  Cold weather can slow down the ability of your lawn to recover and green up fast.  The later the first application of fertilizer, compost tea, or lime is applied; the more your grass would be absent the time needed for improved color and recover from winter damage.

I have seen several years in April and May where the temperature rose into the high 70’s to lower 80’s.  This type of rapid spring warm-up can make some types of weed control applications harmful to turf without proper precautions.  The same precautions need to be taken when scheduling early plant health care spray applications.  If not prepared, you simply miss the window of opportunity for obtaining decent results relative to a variety of insect and disease issues.

Moisture content can also wreak havoc on turf and shrubs in the spring; especially if the spring is cold and rainy.  Such weather greatly advances snow molds and leaf spot on turf while creating apple scab on fruit trees.  Low moisture can reduce seed germination without proper irrigation.  Scheduling of overseeding or aeration during the winter insures completion at the proper time frame in the spring.  A great green care company will watch weather trends and activate services during the appropriate time frame.  You deserve and should demand this level of service.

Peace of mind is another reason to have your Turf or Plant Healthcare program set-up during the winter months.  You can relax and rest assured, knowing that your green care needs will be taken care of.  We will insure that all applications are timely and you will see the results.

The last fabulous reason to schedule your green care treatments during the winter includes financial incentives.  You may qualify for multiple incentives.  For example, if you prepay or return a signed contract before a certain deadline, you may qualify.  Look for these kinds of financial incentives; and look to see if you are partnering with an accredited, licensed, high quality and diversified ‘green care’ company.

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Review your 2011 lawn contract before renewing

Published by Mr. Grass on November 23rd, 2010 - in Landscaping, Turf

Did your doctor ever advise you to get a second opinion? Or have you decided to get a second opinion when something just didn’t seem right? Keep that thought in mind while reading this post…
Hundreds of commercial lawn care contracts will be mailed out shortly to residential homes in VT and NH. Even more lawn contracts will be mailed out to commercial customers in the hopes that decision makers like you will just sign, mail, or simply fax it back with no questions asked. I propose that each contract deserves not only a second opinion, but a thorough examination line by line. Let me explain…
Most lawns are not being examined to determine its true treatment needs. Contracts for lawn accounts are being auto-renewed from prior year information like a CD player on repeat. While this automated process may lock you in and generate revenue for national and larger regional lawn care companies, I sincerely doubt you are receiving a turf care program worthy of your hard earned dollars. That is why I recommend that you schedule a complimentary turf & soil evaluation. But, I have more reasons…
Many lawns treated by the competition utilize heavy machines called Perma-greens, Turf-Trackers, or tractors. These machines do an adequate job on large properties or fields but are very heavy and are not ideally suited for your lawn. An operator can inadvertently cause damage while running the machine over frost covered lawns, shaded locations, and the sloped areas of your lawn. Turf can be easily compacted, torn, and ripped up without careful attention from the operator. If these facts don’t cause you to raise an eyebrow, please read on…
Does your treatment price seem great? The low price simply cannot be beat you say! Did you get a free lime treatment? Hmmm…did you really get a free lime treatment? If you get a free or reduced lime, you may receive it combined with a fertilizer treatment with a reduced amount of pelletized lime mixed into one application. The bottom line here is that you get what you pay for. If the price is lower, you are getting less product and/ or time treating your lawn. Are you ready for that free consultation yet? I have more…
Customer Service! Simply put, the large national chains do not provide adequate customer service. It is often outsourced to inexperienced customer service call centers. When you call, does your phone call get forwarded to a call center or does a local person answer your call? Are you able to reach the manager if you have a concern? Do they call you back promptly? Are you supporting your local economy or contributing to a national organization’s bottom line?
Before you sign on the dotted line this year, and before you pre-pay for your entire year upfront…get a second opinion from a local lawn care company. We welcome your questions and the opportunity to make your lawn healthy, green, and beautiful! So, give us a call to schedule a complimentary turf & soil evaluation. You will see and feel the difference…
If you are not in our service area, I have qualified companies I can recommend to you. Just leave a comment and I will get back to you.

Competition vs Chippers (green lawn is treated by Chippers)

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We Are Chippers… And Always Will Be

Published by Mrs. Chippers on October 13th, 2010 - in Arborist, Crane, Firewood, Garden, Green Care Industry Issues, Land Enhancement, Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

Thank You For Your Support (PDF)

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Raking Your Lawn Is More Important Than You Know

Published by Mr. Grass on October 11th, 2010 - in Turf

As the autumn air cools into piles of colored leaves, your lawn beckons attention before the snow covers it with a blanket of white. Some lawn projects can be simple like raking on a regular basis or mowing with a vacuum bag style tractor system. Raking, or specifically a lack of leaves, allows your lawn to capture more sunlight as the deciduous trees lose their green canopy. Increased sunlight can really help shaded and weak areas capture additional energy to help prepare for the winter. In some cases, this vital time period could be a month or more of growing before slowing to the point of near dormancy with the onset of freezing weather. Any leaves left on the lawn can cause a mulching action by inhibiting sunlight from reaching the leaf blades below.

Don’t allow piles of leaves to sit for weeks on end, or the grass underneath will suffer potentially damaging consequences. Keeping your lawn clean in the fall can really improve the chances of winter survival and minimize damage. Turf that is left covered with leaves or pine needles face a lack of air, light, and often succumbs to ice damage. As simple as raking or leaf removal is, it is very important to all lawns to approach winter clear as opposed to buried out of sight under leaf litter.
Autumn is also a great time harden your lawn off for winter. A wonderful mowing height during the growing season is 3″ as a standard. Your mowing height should be lowered as October fades into November. Drop your mowing deck a half-inch a week starting in mid to late October with the final cut in November being between 1 to 1.5 inches in height. The slow drop in mowing height helps harden your lawn off and slows growth in addition to falling temperatures.

Many folks put their mowers away much too early in October when the lawn continues to grow well into November in many years sometimes to the Thanksgiving holiday break in NH or VT. Some of the most simple cultural practices like mowing and raking can make or break some lawns. The preventative care in raking and mowing can yield big dividends over a harsh winter- aiding in survival and spring recovery. Turf that goes into the winter long – and by that I mean a normal height of 3″ or more – will be predisposed to snow mold and ice damage, even more so with leaf or needle debris.

Plan ahead now and rest easy this winter knowing you did all you could to help your lawn make it into a new year!

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High Heat and Brown Grass

Published by Mr. Grass on July 12th, 2010 - in Landscaping, Turf

High heat and a lack of rainfall is double trouble as it relates to the health of your lawn.  Brown grass results in weeks or even days after prolonged high temperatures and an absence of rainfall.  So, what is a homeowner to do?

At this time of year, the best action is preventative.  First, ensuring your mower is adjusted to the proper cutting height of 3-3.5” and not mowing during the heat of the day is just as important.  Applying slow release fertilizer, lime, or mulched clippings to enhance organic matter is very beneficial.  And over seeding with a drought tolerant turf as well.  In terms of precipitation, unless you have an irrigation system or a very shaded lawn, browning is as inevitable as bacon in the skillet on Sunday morning.  Hmmm, you can just hear the sizzle and smell of the lawn drying to a crispy golden brown!

On a serious note, it’s not the browning of your lawn that is most concerning, but what might eat it while it is brown.  It is much more difficult to notice an attack by hungry pests as the lawn may already be discolored.  Now is the time to monitor for chinch bug, grub, or sod webworm activity.  If you can’t monitor yourself, hire a professional licensed lawn care company.

In terms of watering, anything is helpful but don’t expect that magical green you may see in the spring or fall.  Providing an inch or more of water may not even be allowed if there is a ban like many towns have in place here in NH.  And since most grass needs about an inch of water per week, anything will help to keep the dormant turf alive as it remains in a hibernation state.  High heat will brown out and cause all kinds of blotches and spots in a treated or non-treated lawn setting.  Frankly, it is just too hot for cool season grass when the mercury rises above 85 or 90 degrees.  High heat can cause white blotches on the leaf blade and create drought stress appearing as dull blue or purple sections.  Additional stress may result in a tan or light brown lawn as the plant shuts down to preserve itself.  Remember, grass blades are 99% water, so no water = no grass to grow!

By the way, now is not the time to apply liquid fertilizer or herbicides. The result can be a disaster resulting in what I call “corner to corner grey or brown turf”.  A trained eye can easily spot this kind of chemical induced stress.  Also, high soluble fertilizers place undue stress on a lawn that may already be on the edge. Mowing during the heat of the day is like lying on your driveway at noon (hot and unpleasant).  Any remaining moisture is quickly lost from the fresh cuts as the lawn literally wilts. Massive browning can result in a very short period of time (sometimes hours).  Stressed turf is highly susceptible to mower tracks from the weight of a tractor as well.  This is also true when lawn care companies that use perma-greens and other powered equipment to apply fertilizer, lime, or herbicides.  A light touch using smaller spreaders should be used to prevent this type of damage.

In short, high summer heat is not “the norm” in NH or VT.  However, follow these simple steps to insure a healthy summer lawn:

  1. Watch out for insect damage
  2. Water if you can, and what you can
  3. Don’t mow if you don’t have to (especially from 11am to 3pm). And cut high 3” to 3.5”.  Don’t feel obligated to mow when not mowing is really the best course of action.

Take a vacation and have some fun- but make sure you take care of your investment!

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