Posts Tagged ‘Woodstock’

Eastern Leatherwood – Dirca palustris

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 27th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Trees

This is the third segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Here is a darling understory shrub with a height of 3 – 6’ and equal width. When I first noticed this plant in the dappled light of my woodland, I was love struck. This is a native plant that is found in the eastern half of North America. The multi branched broad shrub is covered with light green 3” oval shaped leaves. This is a very well behaved shrub. In the shade the plant seems to be reaching for the sun and is thinner than the specimens located in full sun, which tend to be full rounded shrubs. I like to hike along the southeast base of Mt. Hoar on the edge of Lake Willoughby, Vermont, the understory is dense with Leatherwood. I am amazed at the width of the leaves, which seem much larger than the standard.

You cannot go wrong with a plant that is good in both sun and shade. It does enjoy moist soil, hence the species “palustris” which means “of the swamps”.  The texture is of medium quality and it is slow growing. This makes a fine plant for the landscape, although it is very difficult to find in cultivation. This makes me covetous. Fall brings forth a fine clear yellow in the leaf, with best color in partial shade conditions.

Leatherwood has no enemies to speak of.  Even deer won’t browse it (it is thought to possibly have diuretic qualities). Studies recently done show that extracts from the seeds contain linoleic and oleic acid which have insecticidal qualities for specific insects.

The bark has a leathery feel. It is not easy to snap off a branch. This quality made it useful for Native Americans to make baskets, bowstrings and fish lines. In very early spring, the shrub bursts forth with lovely perfect 4” butter yellow flowers. Each flower produces one seed. The large green seeds form and drop quickly, literally within a week all seeds will drop from the plant. The seeds need to be collected and sown fresh in late spring for sprouting the following spring. Layering works as a method, but proves difficult as one would have to work in the woodland laboratory where anything can happen. Propagation from cuttings is very difficult, which of course baits me – making it a must try!

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American Hornbeam – Carpinus caroliniana

Published by Mrs. Flower on January 7th, 2012 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the second segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series….

Who wouldn’t like a tree with the moniker “muscle wood”? Also commonly called “blue beech” or “ironwood”, the American Hornbeam is a medium-sized native hardwood tree that, on average, reaches 20 to 30 feet in height and width. Ironwood has a range from Nova Scotia through most of the eastern seaboard of the US, to include the topmost section of Florida, and westward to roughly the middle of the central time zone. It is hardy in zones 3 – 9.

The young bark is smooth and the subtly twisted trunk looks rather sinewy. As it ages the bark becomes fissured and fluted. The form can range from a multistemmed shrub to a single stemmed tree. The growth rate is slow – about a foot per year. Enjoying moisture places it along brooks predominately in the wild. This is a tree for the understory! It is tolerant of deep shade, but also will perform in full sun with a good deep acid soil and promise of adequate fertilizer and moisture. It is also a fine tree for naturalizing.

The leaves resemble that of beech. It is a simple leaf 3 – 4” long with sharp teeth. Fall color is exceptional, displaying red, maroon, orange and gold. The tree exhibits both male and female flowers that are lovely in display, and the resulting fruits are numerous nutlets prized by birds.

Carpinius caroliniana is one of my most favorite trees, even though I know I tend to say this many times about many trees. But, this understory specimen amid taller limbed up trees is a true delight in the fall that will yield wildlife activity further along in the season. I have seen an absolutely sublime alley made of American Hornbeam – the medium texture was kind on the eye and the fall display was robust.

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Sing (and Dance!) Out the Old & Ring in the New!

Published by Mrs. Chippers on December 31st, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Land Enhancement, Landscaping, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

Cheers to 2012!

 

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Eastern Redbud – Cercis canadensis

Published by Mrs. Flower on December 19th, 2011 - in Arborist, Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

This is the first segment of our Ornamental Tree and Shrub Series……

What better time than now, during the first days of winter, to be thinking about the early flowering trees of spring? Eastern redbud is perhaps my favorite blooming tree. It is certainly one of the finest native flowering trees. What I like about this tree is not only that it is one of the earliest blooming, but in the way that the profuse pinkish purple blooms seem to explode right out of the pores of the bark! There are white blooming varieties as well.

Upon inspection of the bark, on the branches and trunk, it is smooth with tiny bumps. Then quickly the knurls fatten and unfurl into a multi-stemmed bunch of 4-8 tiny flowers covering a leafless tree. Completely gorgeous.  It flowers on old wood. The flowers are bisexual and the tree is self-pollinating.

The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects. The nectar is an important component of the honey making business of bees. And is a very attractive date for many nectariferous insects.  Hence it becomes a busy little community of life. The seeds look like pea pods and this is because the genus comes from the legume family – Fabaceae. They form over the course of the summer and are attractive to seed eating birds – Cardinals being my favorites. The seed can be germinated after scarification with sulfuric acid for about a half hour and then given 6 – 8 weeks of cold treatment. The seed does have an internal dormancy, but most will germinate with proper care.

As if the 2-3 week flowering period is not enough, the young leaves appear as small cranberry colored hearts that grow to a large 4” blue green cordate leaf.  The leaves turn an exceptional golden yellow in the fall. This little tree can be used in a garden setting and it is possible to utilize it as a shrub with selective pruning. The redbud is not especially vulnerable to pests and diseases. This is a versatile genus that is easy to grow and take care of.

The cercis is a medium textured, short-lived deciduous tree found throughout the eastern United States. It is tolerant of most soil types, except refuses to be happy in constantly wet soils. It has a deep taproot and is aggressive in establishment in full sun to part shade. The average height is 15-20′ and the spread is 18-25′. It has a lovely horizontal branching, rotund form.  The growth rate is medium, which makes it perfect for the garden, as it will not quickly take over. Most rapid growth occurs in youth, in the first 5–6 years, when it can grow 6–10’, then growth is slow. The Eastern Redbud is a native tree that is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Be careful not to acquire a tree that has come from seed stock grown in the south as, most likely, it will not be hardy to far north conditions.

I have a variety called  ‘Forest Pansy’ in my garden that is hardy to zone 5. While I am in zone 4, I have enjoyed this little tree for five years.I always lose the branches every winter and I cut them back, fearing that this might be the end, but the tree keeps flushing forth with BIG dark purple hearts which turn various shades of apricot in the fall.

Visitors always ask what it is. It has never, and may never bloom because I have to keep pruning the winter kill – but I love this tree so much. Even if it does expire, I will surely replace it with another.

I am dying to try a new cultivar ‘Rising Sun’ which has golden tangerine heart -shaped foliage summer through fall; new leaves are bright rosy apricot. It grows to a height of 12’, which would be perfect as a garden framework maker. It is hardy to zone 5, but I do enjoy pushing my limits!

 

 

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Ice Melt: You Really Do Get What You Pay For….

Published by Mr. Grass on November 23rd, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

Rock salt is the cheapest and most basic of ice melting materials but it has many drawbacks for the price.  Everyone knows the damage rock salt does to turf, tree & shrubs, concrete, brick, patios, steel and so many more materials.  Rock salt is the cheapest ice melt but generally functions in the upper teens to lower 20’s F.  Rock salt will do plenty of damage to concrete, patios, grass, trees, and shrubs when exposed to the briny solution as it soaks into the soil.  Once spring arrives the moist, salty soil actually creates a drought condition around root systems resulting from the use of rock salt.  Although rock salt is a cheap ice melting product, the replacement damage of beloved tree and shrubs far outweigh its regular use.  Surprisingly enough, many folks still buy rock salt by the ton due to its “perceived” value as it relates to the price per bag.  For a few dollars more, many other ice melting products are available with much less impact to the environment and landscaping materials such as brick, slate, and concrete.

Calcium chloride is a serious ice melting product that works at extreme low temperatures (-25 f), only found in New England on rare occasions.  Unfortunately, calcium chloride is a very harsh chemical that requires the use of protective equipment such as gloves to protect against burning exposed skin.  Calcium chloride is also very expensive, which brings into question why it would be used over other available products.  Storage is important because unless the bags are sealed and kept dry, calcium chloride “melts” into itself by absorbing moisture in the air- thereby coming unusable. Calcium chloride will corrode steel so makes it a poor choice for use on concrete sidewalks.  Most calcium chloride pellets are round and therefore roll on inclines unlike crystalline ice melters.  While other ice melts can provide physical traction after use, the round pellets of calcium chloride cannot provide any such benefit.  Calcium chloride is labeled on the bag as a severe irritant to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.

There are many environmentally friendly ice melting materials on the market.  Unfortunately, because ice melts are not regulated by the Federal government, an associated MSDS sheet can be most vague without exhaustive research.  After much research ourselves, we have decided to offer Natural Ice Melt as an alternative to the aforementioned products.  Performance must be balanced with cost and benefits depending upon the planned use such as on a driveway, near a valuable landscape or around pets.  So the next time you are staring at a pallet of ice melt at the Home Depot, maybe you will think twice before reaching for the lowest price bag because… are you really saving any money? If you have more questions about ice melt, please contact turf@chippersinc.com.

 

 

 

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The Deep Sleep is Looming

Published by Mrs. Flower on November 14th, 2011 - in Garden, Landscaping, Natives, Trees

The processes of plant dormancy begin with triggers that indicate the growing season is nearing end and that winter is approaching. Obvious signs would be the shortening of daylight hours, reduced water, reduced food resources and cooler temperatures. Plants are capable of being fooled out of the process of senescence. Many gardeners have seen perennials, shrubs and trees suddenly show what appears to be spring growth. This often happens if plants that are supposed to be getting ready for dormancy are given fertilizer late in the season, or if there is unusual extended warmth and rain. This is why it is best not to fertilize late in the season, or during autumn planting and transplanting.

It is possible to make a plant that is seasonal stay awake for up to two seasons. Using a Japanese maple as an example; one could bring it indoors and keep it “awake” for a two-season period. But most likely, soon enough, it will die because this type of extreme treatment will exhaust the plants’ stores. This is why it is not a great idea to try to grow anything other than tropical as houseplants.

When the season end “triggers” mount up, signaling end game, processes like pulling the last remaining nutrients from the leaves and transporting them down into crowns and or, roots for winter storage are happening. Plant cells start to reduce the amount of water contained within the cell walls. This small amount of remaining liquid is sugar-laden and acts as a sort of plant antifreeze. This sugary liquid will not expand with freezing temps and explode the plant cells, which causes cell death.

Some plants actually have a capability of having a dormancy set point. These plants require a specific number of hours of dormancy before they awaken for the season. This works well for those times when spring comes suddenly and for a short spell. Gardeners worry when they see spring growth way before the last frosts have finished, and this seems to be happening more these days. But have faith that plants do know when winter is gone. And even if there is an extremely early flush of green life that gets nipped, most of the stored energy is still in the wood and roots and all will be well. Green has always prevailed and it always will.

 

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Overcome Those Matted Leaves Despite Snowtober!

Published by Mr. Grass on November 3rd, 2011 - in Pruning, Storm Damage Assistance, Trees, Turf

Most folks got at least a few inches of snow this past weekend during a record setting October snow storm.  The impact on your lawn can be summed up in a few basic scenarios with the first involving moderate to substantial leaf litter on the ground, now snow-covered.  Left uncollected, these piles of leaves can be trouble for your lawn as colder weather approaches with snow that will not melt until spring.  As soon as you can remove leaf piles and other debris brought down by the heavy, wet snow you should plan on doing so to prevent smothering areas of your lawn.  The thicker the leaf pile, the better it will mulch your grass leaving dead spots and bare areas next year.

If you have your driveway plowed, now is a great time to put up stakes marking the edge of the lawn indicating the transition from gravel or pavement to grass.  Snow plow damage becomes visible in the spring time as snow recedes, exposing chunks of sod and grass tossed aside to dry out and die.  Without help, snow plow operators can have difficulty determining where your driveway ends and the lawn begins.  Such an error is commonplace during late night snow storms and can result in significant lawn damage.  Using posts, stakes, or sticks can provide a simple, yet effective signal and minimize or prevent the edge of your lawn from being “relocated.”

Even though it is now November, if you got caught with your lawn still needing another cut- say over 3” in height- don’t feel odd pulling out your mower for one last farewell mowing.  Many folks can remove leaves and mow simultaneously so this is a great opportunity to “get two birds with one stone” as the saying goes.  A clean, short cut in November is one way you can say ‘I love you’ to your lawn before the onset of winter.

Many tree limbs were damaged by the weight of the snow with leaves still turning colors, many of those leaves still green!  Be sure to have those branches cleanly pruned to help reduce future insect and disease damage.  Of course, remove as many downed branches as you can from your grass, leaving the lawn surface as clean as possible before winter truly arrives.  Completing these basic housekeeping items can give your landscape the edge it might need to survive an unpredictable winter.

 

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Look for Invasive Insects In Your Swimming Pool

Published by Mr. Tree on June 28th, 2011 - in Arborist, Firewood, Green Care Industry Issues, Plant Health Care, Trees

The following article is courtesy of the NH Cooperative Extension.

Dear Friends of Trees and Enemies of Asian Longhorned Beetles,

 

The Asian longhorned beetle (ALB) is a serious threat to our forests and trees. As far as we know it isn’t in New Hampshire, yet. We need many people looking for it so we can take steps to limit its spread, if it arrives. ALB was found in trees in Worcester MA in 2008, but experts estimate it was in the trees for about 10 years before they identified the problem. Some Worcester homeowners subsequently reported they collected ALB in their swimming pools for years prior to the 2008 identification.

 

Because there isn’t a reliable trap for ALB and using the Worcester-experience, we are looking for ALB in swimming pools. Last summer, we tested this approach with 34 public pools. Thankfully, we didn’t find ALB, but we found many longhorned-type beetles, so we know this survey method works. If ALB is New Hampshire, we think we will find them in swimming pools.

 

Help us by looking at the debris from your swimming pools. In addition to a swimming pool, you need:

 

• A digital camera

• An email address that you actively use

• Enough computer skills to follow instructions to upload pictures to this website: http://extension.unh.edu/FWT/ALBpool.htm

 

 

Here is an overview of the project:

 

Step 1: Sign up to participate NOW by sending us your name, physical street address and town, and email address to: foresthealth@dred.state.nh.us .

 

Step 2: From July 11-August 26. At least once a week¬or whenever you clean your pool¬look at the debris you collect in your filter and skimmers. Look for longhorned beetles.

 

Step 3: Use a fact sheet (posted at http://extension.unh.edu/FWT/ALBpool.htm) to compare collected insects to common insects.

 

Step 4: Take a picture of any insect you think is a longhorned beetle. We need a good view of the insect’s back.

 

Step 5: Once a week send a picture of the insect that most looks like a longhorned beetle. We need to hear from you every week.

 

Step 6: Send the picture through this website http://extension.unh.edu/FWT/ALBpool.htm

 

Step 7: If you send us a picture, freeze the insect in a tupperware-like container until you hear from us (about a week). We will either tell you to throw the insect out or give you instructions about mailing it, delivering it or arranging for pick-up.

 

Then What?

We will post interesting pictures and sightings to the web and send you a weekly email reminder and report.

 

Questions about the project?

foresthealth@dred.state.nh.us or call Kyle Lombard at the Forest Health Office 464-3016

 

Questions about the project and the website?

karen.bennett@unh.edu or call Karen Bennett at UNH Cooperative Extension at 862-4861

 

Thank you for your interest and your help.

 

 

Kyle Lombard Karen Bennett

Forest Health Program UNH Cooperative Extension

Karen P. Bennett, Extension Forestry Professor & Specialist

UNH Cooperative Extension

212 Nesmith Hall, 131 Main St.

Durham, NH 03824

(603)862-4861, (603)312-6695 cell, (603)862-0107 fax

karen.bennett@unh.edu

www.nhwoods.org

 

 

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Reducing Chances of Dutch Elm Disease

Published by Mr. Tree on November 16th, 2010 - in Arborist, Plant Health Care, Pruning, Trees

Today we pruned a large elm tree in front of the Town Hall on Main Street in Hanover. William Desch, the towns’ arborist, knows pruned elms stand a much better chance of keeping Dutch elm disease at bay. In fact all of the town’s elms along with Dartmouth College’s elm trees are pruned and monitored in a good effort to keep them free of Dutch elm disease.

Why does pruning help? Dutch elm disease spreads from tree to tree primarily one way (to keep this post short I won’t even mention the lesser ways). The disease causing fungus is carried by an insect vector called the elm bark beetle. The beetles like to hang out under the bark of dead elm trees and the dead branches of otherwise healthy elm trees. Keeping elm trees free of dead or damaged branches reduces the threat and spread of the disease.

In addition to pruning elm trees, a good sanitation program must include the quick removal and disposal of infected trees if remedial treatment is considered ineffectual. Remedial treatments usually include: cutting behind the infection (removal of infected parts) and a follow-up fungicide treatment.

So, from 9am this morning till about noon, Bill Murphy one of our ISA certified arborists ascended the tree and pruned. The rest of us on the ground kept pedestrian traffic safely flowing while the Hanover Police graciously directed traffic.

The sun was shining, people were happy, and the tree was being preserved. It is Friday, and all is good!

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Why consider Natural Ice Melt?

Published by Mr. Grass on November 1st, 2010 - in Landscaping, Storm Damage Assistance, Turf

We have all seen the devastation that rock salt (or halite) causes to vehicles and roads.  And we have also seen the damage rock salt inflicts to turf, trees, shrubs, concrete, brick, patios, steel and so many other materials.  While rock salt is the cheapest and most basic of ice melting materials, it has many drawbacks.  Rock salt only works at temperatures down to 25 f and will dry out your pets’ paws when used on walkways, patios, decks, and driveways.  Rock salt may also cause salt burns to animals and kill turf and shrubs when applied over the course of a winter.  How much did you pay for that landscaping job?  Or should I say, how much are you willing to pay to replace that section of lawn or even that shrub?  Is it worth the small savings for rock salt versus a few dollars more for far safer and superior products? Oh, and I saved the best for last! Rock salt also tracks a white residue into your home leaving your tile, wood floor, or carpets dirty and white.

Calcium chloride is our next contestant and is a heavy weight ice melt.  It is a serious product that works at very low temperatures (-25 f) but also has major draw backs such as higher cost, corrosion, adverse health effects, reduced traction, and damage to the environment.  These are just the big drawbacks, there are more.  Also, unless kept dry, calcium chloride melts into itself (absorbs moisture) and becomes unusable.  Calcium chloride will corrode steel.  Most calcium chloride pellets are also spheres and therefore roll on inclines or slopes.  Unlike crystalline ice melt, calcium chloride does not provide any physical traction.  Calcium chloride is not plant or people friendly.  In fact, it can burn your hands or the paws of your beloved pet if not handled properly.  Calcium chloride is a severe irritant to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.  Calcium chloride is certainly not very safe to use around your family or home given how harsh it is. Fortunately, there are alternatives….

Why consider Natural Ice Melt?  If you take away all of the bad stuff I just wrote about.  How does that sound?  Natural Ice Melt is effective at temperatures down to 5 f.  That’s very effective on an average winter night. Natural Ice Melt is pet, plant, and people safe.  There is no need to use gloves or protection to apply Natural Ice Melt.  Natural Ice Melt does not dissolve or remove moisture from the air.  So, there is no need to keep the bag air locked.  We especially love how Natural Ice Melt will not track on carpets and tile, eliminating that dirty white residue.  Natural Ice Melt will work on asphalt shingles and will not stain that newly sealed or paved driveway.  And with its natural peach color, Natural Ice Melt is visually easier to apply.

With each product we buy, we make a statement.  What will you buy this year when it comes to melting ice at your home and/ or business?  We hope you will consider the environment, your family, the lawn, and your pets!  Natural Ice Melt just makes sense. Once you try Natural Ice Melt and see the benefits, you will not use any other ice melt product.  Look for it and buy it. Or better yet, give us a call and we can have it delivered to your home by the bag or pallet!

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